June 15 at 05:44, as I leave look back at camp 6 site on Morning Lake. I wonder how long it will be before the burned trees topple.
Heading up the lake, widespread evidence of last year's wildfire the entire day's trip.
Breakfast stop at the site of an incinerated cabin, all that remains metal and molten glass. A spot where there have been long term cabins, the topographic map showing symbols for three from aerial photos taken 1968. I suspect there were cabins there long before that date, either local Cree or white trappers. In such places I always wonder who and what they did.
Stinging nettles, edible if boiled to destroy the formic acid in the prickly hairs. Do not harvest with bare hands! There are enough other natural edibles I do not usually bother with the extra work preparing nettles.
The start of the 750 metre portage near the north end of Morning Lake to Gull Lake.
A 100 metre stretch of the trail near the start is quite wet and muddy showing recent moose tracks. These areas tend to suck on my boots resisting movement especially when carrying heavy loads. Slow but steady strides so I do not get stuck or fall, especially when veering to miss the worst spots.
Part of the path along large boulders at the trail's top rise.
Blackflies and mosquitoes are quite bothersome, hence the headnet (plus long sleeved shirt with wristlets and gloves). Blackflies will sneak under any opening, evident later by the red welts.
The north end of Gull Lake where I make a hard luck camp beside the next portage trail in burned bush. Later than I should be, I spent way too much time fruitlessly checking four prior locations for a campsite.
Despite a late 19:00 arrival I carry stones, three at a time, from within the bush in six trips to make a fireplace on the path at shore's grassy edge. Now I can boil water to drink, wash and make a well deserved hot supper. The LifeStraw® is great for keeping hydrated while travelling but drinking water freely from a cup is preferable when possible.
The tent is erected on rough ground beside the portage after over half hour of clearing dead trees, roots and stones beside a melted aluminum motorboat.
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Summary:
Another hard luck site, tent erected beside a half burned aluminum motor boat. Travel 20 km including a 750 metre portage, 16 km map distance but four km extra looking for a campsite. Lunch and supper combined for a welcome hearty supper. Another late night, not in bed until 01:00 'tomorrow'. Level side of bed with all available items including my folded clothes. Sleep well, the sleep of the weary.
June 15:
[After a tiring few days of paddling, portaging, searching for campsites I am writing this journal entry three days later on June 18 at camp 8.] To reach camp 7 I have travelled 20 km including one portage, 16 km map distance but four km extra fruitlessly looking for a campsite. The 750 metre portage from Morning Lake to small Gull Lake is in good shape despite a 100 metre wet muddy stretch; it takes half hour to clear, including once having to set down my first load to move some fallen trees impossible to step over carrying the packs. On Morning Lake I stop for breakfast at the site of an incinerated cabin; all that remains is metal and molten glass. It is the site of three cabins marked on the topographic map, my 1990 notation on the map "old log cabins". From my journal: "With high hopes check all round the only small green island on small Gull Lake but it is too mountainous. Land on the isle at one spot and tramp through the bush, hillocky and steep. A beaver is setting up its lodge but slim pickings for food. Poor guy! Willow, alder a bit of birch, none on the mainland. Wonder if he will actually stay the winter or move on. Everything burned. Had already passed the large flatter isle near the south end but it is totally devastated by fire. Canoe back to a site on the mainland I had passed as I was so hopeful for the small green island in the distance. Faced strong headwind to reach the isle and now go backwards! Aie! Landing I tramp along shore where there is a bit of green, a few spared trees, trying to find a levelish spot for the tent but all the land slopes upward from shore. Often there will be at least one decent spot but no such luck. I go out of my way to land at two other places on mainland shore, fresh bear scat at one. From a distance an area can look promising but fails the closeup test. After wasting a few hours I finally continue on to the portage near the north end. All burned, just a bit of green grass on shore. Decide to camp, another hard luck site up the trail a short way beside a half burned aluminum motor boat. This year seems to be setting a record for number of melted boats seen. [Such boats have been either flown in or pulled over the portage, sometimes in winter by snowmachine. It is common to see log rollers on some trails where the boat has been manhandled across the portage.] 19:00, another late camp! Unload canoe. Walk through black burned bush to the side, mostly tall burned poplar, where I can see lots of stones but most firmly embedded. Find enough moveable ones and carry in six trips, three at a time, to the grassy area at shore. Set up a fireplace. Find a bit of loose birch bark kindling on a few small spared trees along shore. Saw some dead alder. Put on three pots to boil water. Take at least half hour to clear a tent site beside the motor boat, moving rocks, cutting burned trees, roots. Everything touched leaves a black sooty mark. The tent site is sloping a bit but reasonably flat. Tent up, gear inside, I carry the two heavy grub barrels farther up the portage trail to tie to two bare burned spruce trees still firmly rooted. As the evening gets darker, the fireplace a welcome bright area, finally I can make supper, oriental noodles menu with sardines and Parmesan cheese; having missed lunch I eat it with supper, adding the almonds and crumbled quarter bannock to the soupy mix, completely filling the pot, a yummy filling meal. Have hot water wash. Now 'tomorrow', to bed after ablutions by 01:00. Tent floor slopes to the side so prop up bed underlay with folded small tarp, two empty clothes pack bags which is often enough but this time have to add all my folded clothes including raincoat and rain pants, placed strategically under the tarp along its length. Sleep well, the sleep of the weary."