August 6 at 10:46 moving on from camp 9 to the next campsite hoping it is not going to rain.
10:58 a gull sits sentinel on a big boulder as I paddle past.
August 6 at 11:07 landing at camp 10 (old camp 3).
August 8 at 08:37 downstream from camp 10. I land past the jutting bare rock on the left shore to clear the long portage past the series of falls ascended June 7. It takes five hours to make the trail more manoeuvrable than it was then (when I should have cleared it much better). Now after two months of summer growth the original trail is even more narrow. Although feeling fully? recovered from long-COVID and much stronger I want to avoid the problems of the June portage. I will definitely take the canoe on the second carry as I have been doing on every portage since then.
Below one set of falls just down from where I landed at the upper end of the portage.
The following photos after clearing of the most difficult piece of trail, a several metre rise up steep rock when heading to the lower end of the portage. The photos do not do justice to the steepness and level of difficulty. At least I will be carrying up the hill which is easier and safer than going down with a heavy load.
Looking up the steep hill heading "down" the portage to the lower landing, illustrating how the path rises and falls whether descending or ascending the trail. The three large rocks in the foreground must be stepped up and across empty space; then from the top one step up and over a deep gap to climb the rest of the hill. This spot requires several extra long steps upwards. Would not be a great place to carry in wet weather.
The view back down the hill. I cut the trail in the location of the original path which had grown over. Someone had made a trail more precipitous to the right where I was sure I would not be able to step up carrying loads as my leading knee would be at a level with my head. Might have been okay if my 5'9" height was 6'9" and mostly in the legs.
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Summary:
Finally move on from camp 9 having stayed there five weeks. Camp 10 is old camp 3 on the island at the head of the long series of waterfalls that I ascended in the spring. Wet and cool weather continues, blackflies very bothersome on portages. Poor fishing near camp forces me to canoe upstream to catch pike for supper. Spend five hours clearing the 1700 metre portage beside the falls to hopefully make sure not to have a repeat of the spring's difficult and frustrating canoe carry. The Tent site is on the island's poorly drained shallow moss so I have to insulate the floor with spruce boughs after both tarps on the ground get wet by morning underneath my bed. Because of the damp and heavily shaded site now that the sun rises lower as the season progresses I decide to leave earlier than planned. Recent bear sign near camp.
August 6:
Up as early as possible at 04:30 when dawn is just breaking, even darker than usual because of thick cloud. It is a relatively cool day, 15°C only rising to 17°C by evening. The sky looks like rain but luckily it remains dry all day, occasional sun peaking through. Blackflies are bad so I wear the headnet from the moment leaving camp 9, lifting the net just enough to drink using the LifeStraw; I am sweat-soaked already after the first carry. Near the rapids above the start of the long falls a lone gull stands sentinel on a big boulder. After starting a fire to shoo blackflies from my clothing, I eat late breakfast plus lunch while setting up camp 10 at the old camp 3 location. Bugs are gone, only a few mosquitoes, so it feels good to remove the headnet. Boots and pants are soaked to the knees from portaging through wet underbrush especially thick Labrador tea; clothes are mostly dry by suppertime. Still looking like rain, after the Tarp is erected next up is the canvas Tent. Stove is in the Tent but remains packed. After supper of macaroni and cheese I walk the trail to the foot of the island where I pick a variety of berries, mostly blueberries but some red currants, pin cherries, bunchberries, lingonberries. On the return trip I pick more blueberries along a particularly good section, enough to accompany several meals. There is some recent bear scat in one place and a big stone overturned by a bear since I was here last; this reinforces that an island even in rapids does not preclude bear visits. Weary and tired I am in bed by 20:00. Later it starts to rain and continues several times during the night. I have a bad leg cramp once when I get up to pee, not having drank enough while portaging.
August 7:
Up to the alarm at 04:30 after it was turned on in error I am wide awake so there is no sense trying to go back to bed. Last night's intermittent rain continues but I manage to bake bannock for breakfast at the fireplace. Cool at 6°C I keep the fire going to ease lighting the stove after setting it up. Launching the canoe I try fishing between camp 10's island and the rapids just above. The water is shallow so I canoe up river to the next rapids to catch pike for supper. On my way I pass the gull still on guard atop the boulder. Continually thinking I am going to get rained on, I clean the fish on the boulders at the rapids. Back at camp while eating lunch in the Tent at noon it pours rain. Heavy showers keep up every half hour until evening so I cook fish chowder for supper on the stove, glad to have erected the canvas Tent yesterday. Temperature remains cool at 13°C. From my journal "Had thought to take the canoe downstream from the island camp to the falls portage to widen the tight spots that caused me grief in June. Rain had a different idea. Had also hoped to have a hot shower but settle for a washcloth bath top to bottom. Glad I started the stove; I sit in just moccasins, clothes and bedding hanging to dry. There is a cool breeze so window closed, door only open a bit at the bottom corner. Life is good."
August 8:
Up by 04:15 to clear calm 10°C weather I start the stove for breakfast. From my journal: "Sometime during night I awoke to a throbbing left thumb which I cut yesterday when I slipped on the boulders while filleting fish. Removed most of the too tight waterproof tape over the bandage (which I cover with duct tape after arising this morning). No surprise but with all the rain there is dampness showing through the canvas floor tarp which sits on a poly tarp, not a good sign. Didn't help that I slept in the low spot which was the most level. When I exit will peel back the two tarps to perhaps dry some."
The plan today is to go to the long falls portage to clear areas that caused me so much problem in the spring. I carry required gear to the lower landing 300 metres from the upper: canoe, two paddles, Kitchen Barrel, gun, Rubber Pack, Miscellaneous Pack (containing Tool Bag, medium tarp and ropes, leather mitts, PFD, sponge, two painters). My only remaining food is in the barrel so am taking it as a precaution. The other two barrels laying under the Tarp shelter are empty so no longer need to be tied to trees. After paddling the 500 metres downstream to the portage landing just above one falls I cover the packs in the canoe with the tarp in case it rains. The barrel remains in the canoe. The canoe tied to shore is left in the water but on shallow rocks so a bear could easily filch what it wanted. Right from the start of the 1700 metre trail it requires clearing. There is lots of growth over the summer, especially alder and birch, really narrowing the already narrow path. As usual I have initiated the SPOT™ device at camp first thing in the morning (06:45) and now again at 08:45 in the initial stretch needing clearing. This is so that my contacts know where I am away from camp. Blackflies are very bothersome so headnet is donned before starting and worn until returning to camp at 14:00. Thinking I will will not be very long I do not bother to take water with me. I use the LifeStraw® upon leaving the canoe and not again until back at camp, not a good plan. As I start to cut out trees I am soon sweat-soaked from the crotch up and wet from knees to boots from damp undergrowth while blackflies buzz madly around me trying to get through the headnet. The trail needs widening in many places especially the sharper turns; at least now the canoe should hopefully not get stuck in trees forcing me to set it down like last time. A few straighter stretches near the lower end are suitable as is. From my journal: "At the sharp drop I change the trail back to the original or at least the one I have used before, less steep, but still steep. There is one big step up but not as big as the 'new' trail where I know I would have had to set the canoe down and remove packs to hoist them up; the step would have had my leading knee up by my head while carrying a load, not possible even for my younger self." After about five hours of steady work I decide it is time to stop; I have done enough. Most of the cutting has been with saw or pruners, axe seldom required."
Back at camp I fell three medium sized spruce trees and limb their boughs to fill in the low wet spot inside the Tent. Underneath is shallow moss over rock such that all ten tent pegs laid mostly horizontally have to be weighed down with big stones. The floor is just as wet as when I left in the morning. This camp site is very shaded, more so as the sun rises less high in the sky as the season progresses. I first layer the larger lower boughs then bring in the three tree tops to limb with the axe inside the Tent directly on the boughs. While eating a welcome supper the campfire warmth feels good and helps dry boots and pants that are still damp. From my journal: "Pockets in jeans and shirt are 'full' of dead blackflies ... well dozens anyway! Sweaty clothes have dried; a hot shower would feel good but I settle for a hot washcloth wash in the Tent. When I got back from clearing the portage was thirsty and weary, even thinking of staying another day. Having eaten and rested somewhat I think I will leave tomorrow to hopefully get a drier campsite or at least one that drains better. Will be glad to get into bed." Before bed I prepack as much as possible. Tired and weary I am in bed by 20:00.