Red sunrise 02:58 June 26 at camp 6, hopefully not an indicator of rain.
Canoe packed with load covered ready to leave at 05:46.
The following photos range between 06:08 and 09:53 as I head up the lake. A south tailwind makes for good time as I travel to the end of the second long narrows leading to the wide upper bay of the north end of the lake which I reach at 12:00. Shallow poor fishing waters and no decent campsites prompt me to turn back. As the wind continues to pick up I do not stop the 20 minutes required to send a SPOT™ message that would show the northern extent of today's 14 km travel. Unfortunately the paddle back down the lake is against the wind making for a hard tiring slog.
07:31 approaching the end of the big bay north of the first narrows.
09:17-09:23 heading towards a 1½ km long narrow island in the middle of the second narrows.
09:27-09:53 paddling past the island (to the right of the canoe). Its topography confirms the map's indication of a long winding esker in the channel. The two photos through the bush across the esker illustrate the raised height of land resembling a railway embankment, the remains of an under glacier stream which deposited the detritus of sand and gravel many thousands of year ago. There are higher spots on the esker than those in the photos but they are the best ones with some open bush to show the top line of the esker.
The photos below are of camp 7 (old camp 5) on June 27 (12:37-12:40). The bottom photo looks towards the mouth of the target river and the eagle nest on its right. Vortex island again lives up to its reputation of heavy rain and revolving wind.
The bandage on my finger reinforced with duct tape after wearing through during the long day of paddling yesterday, having travelled a total distance of 29 km, 11 km of it against a stiff headwind.
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Summary:
Distance travelled 29 km (25 km plus four extra going out of my way half of that when taking a wrong turn). A long hard day, a welcome tailwind in the morning becomes a headwind in the afternoon after I turn around to return ll km to vortex island because of likely poor fishing and absence of campsites. This time I hope to finally explore up the target river rapids. However a red sunrise accurately predicts rain and once again rotating wind forces me to re-rig the Tarp shelter several times.
June 26:
Up to alarm at 03:00, I pull on boots to check outside. Sunrise is red so I hope it does not predict rain. Leaving by 05:45 I make good time in the calm clear conditions, even better when a light south tailwind starts. I stop for breakfast on a uniquely shaped island that has been a cabin site with much junk including old appliances and fallen down plywood buildings. Moving on up the lake to enter a lengthy second narrows I pass to the left west side of a long slender esker island. On the west mainland I spot a few possible campsites but do not stop to check. There are shallow waters everywhere not likely good for fishing. Making my way through the narrows I check where my map indicates Steven and I camped 20 years ago well before the 2010 wildfire. Nothing looks at all familiar. Even though I investigate three locations I cannot find any evidence of our campsite nor locate any decent sites. The water continues to be quite shallow. Continuing on past all the narrows to where the large open end of the lake opens up, there is still no sign of a place to camp.
Disappointed I decide to head back down the lake unfortunately now against a stiff headwind. With the wind so strong I do not want to delay the 20 minutes to send a SPOT™ message that would show today's north extent. To explore new area I paddle down the narrows on the side of the esker opposite to that I came up. Misjudging one location I keep too far to the east to find myself in gradually shallower water until I reach the dead end of a one km long bay; even after suspecting what I would find I keep going to make sure it does not lead through to the lake. Paddling back out of the bay I turn past the entrance to go farther down the narrows to the north end of the esker where I now can keep to its east side. But even that proves not to be without first making another turn to the left down another shorter dead-end bay where I have to again turn around. Each time I veered too far to the east I thought I was at the tip of the esker where I wanted to keep to its east side. Aie! Looking at the map is quite different to the view from the canoe. There are absolutely no appropriate campsites along the mainland. In two locations I stop to check the esker itself. After passing the south end of the esker I stop at two small islands that look promising from a distance. As often the case what appears to be gentle grassy slope on close exam is too steep and covered with thick Labrador tea. I do check uphill for possible levelish spots with no luck. Not wanting to go back up the other side of the esker to investigate areas I had mentally thought might be okay on the mainland, I decide to head to the island where I had eaten breakfast. As I eat late lunch at 14:45 thinking to camp here I send a SPOT™ message. Tromping around I realize there is no safe place for a fire that would not burn into the humus; I even check where the fallen down buildings are but can find no safe spot for a fireplace. There is fresh bear scat. Lots of junk lying around indicates that bears may have become accustomed to foraging garbage here. Habituated bears will come back to spots like this even years later. Not at all happy with so much garbage I would be camping amongst I decide to move on even though I now have to paddle across the wide expanse of lake against the headwind.
Resigned to a difficult paddle I head back down the lake to the nearest campsite which is old camp 5 at vortex island. Landing at "new" camp 7 I activate the SPOT™ at 16:45, late but not as late as I thought it would be. Optimistically I think while I am here maybe this is an indication that I should go back up the target river to see if I can get past the rapids. I set up the nylon tent, sleep gear laid out and all other gear in the rear vestibule. From experience here I know to tether the canoe in front of the tent. To see if it proves any better, with some jockeying of ropes, I erect the Tarp shelter a bit different. Starting a fire I soon have mac & cheese ready for supper. Though disappointed about the day's findings, I give thanks for a decent day weather-wise, even though I had to paddle against a wind in the afternoon that initially I was grateful for. The sky has been clear most of the day but now very cloudy looking like rain. In bed by 21:30 I give a big sigh of relief to lay down after a long day of paddling. Waking up a bit before midnight to rainfall I voice out loud that the red sunrise lived up to its "sailor take warning" prediction.
Distance travelled is 29 km (25 km plus four extra going out of my way half of that when taking a wrong turn). A long hard day, a welcome tailwind in the morning becomes a headwind in the afternoon after turning around to return ll km to vortex island because of the absence of campsites and likely poor fishing.
June 27:
Still raining since midnight, when I go outside the Tarp is bowed down heavy with rainwater, so much for my improved setup. Raising the Tarp from underneath there is a big flood, luckily I can direct the water to the side. Then I rearrange the support ropes for the third time (twice last evening). Thank goodness the Tarp did not tear; obviously I did not have it sloped sufficiently or taut enough to drain properly. I can smell wildfire smoke this morning probably brought in by yesterday's all day south wind. After starting a fire in the rain I eat breakfast. Wearing rain jacket gathering wood seems to be an endless task, using big wood to shield the fire. Wind has switched from south to north, a cool 13°C at 12:45 lunchtime, still raining. Now the wind is shifting to the east, vortex island living up to its reputation. From my journal: "Would be nice to be in canvas Tent with stove, not possible here. The main reason I stopped here yesterday rather than go the extra three km back to camp 6 is becoming less attractive. The plan is to walk up the shallow rapids of the target river to see if at all possible to wade and line. It wasn't in 2002 and water levels are possibly even lower now. Could also check the upper end of the portage I had cut then to determine how much work it would be to re-clear. And to see if the lower end of the portage at the pond is accessible; it could be that the beaver dam has made it more difficult. There are four rapid outlets spread over a broad area. In 2002 I used the uppermost outlet which I portaged around from the pond, now possibly a larger beaver pond which getting past may be tough. Also would like to try fishing in rapids for walleye. Will be careful not to hit my head again; maybe though it would get rid of the floater in my eye." I am falling asleep under the Tarp, the rain continuing. The eagle seems to be constantly going to and from the nest always up the river. By midafternoon the rain may have stopped, the moderate wind now from the east, the sky very cloudy with bits of blue and some sun shining through. Firewood is becoming harder to find. At 17:30 suppertime I can still smell smoke and can see smoke haze in the distance. There are several fish rises out from the fireplace; only light wind now so I could take canoe out to fish but do not want to store the fillets overnight. Still undecided about heading up the river I am in bed by 21:00 sleeping in the fleece shell all night although sometimes chilled.