My 2023 canoe trip of 12 weeks starts on May 28 and ends on August 15.
The return journey follows the same inbound portion except for the last 10 km when I exit via a river and a series of downstream rapids to go directly to my parked vehicle.
There are four notable animal encounters. On August 5 at camp 9 a humongous black bear walks towards me at camp as I return from shore startling us both. At the same camp a very young snowshoe hare affectionately referred to as "my bunny" grows too used to me although I give him no encouragement even trying to scare him away. On August 10 at camp 11 a small black bear approaches camp as I am sitting under the Tarp shelter again surprising each other. Also at the latter camp during the night a small animal claws several holes in the canvas Tent door before I scare it away, at first ignoring the sounds thinking it is just a small mouse. The bears fortunately run away without further incident but in both camps I comment that all these animals are telling me it is time to move on (which I do).
Fishing for the required four meals of pike per week is successful (no walleye), total number of 49 varying in size from 17-34" (five between 28-34"). There is good picking of blueberries at only two camps and lingonberries also at two. Otherwise most suppers are supplemented with greens of some sort (mainly leaves or catkins of birch, alder, willow and some fireweed).
Because of a multitude of issues I choose to forgo going up the target river that I wanted to explore as an alternate route across the divide to the Foster River system emptying into the Churchill River from the north. The issues include:
- heavy wind and rain that leads me to label the island camp at the mouth of the target river as "vortex island" because the weather circles around it so that shelter never seems to be in the correct spot
- landscape recovering from extensive 2010 wildfire making travel difficult through thick brush and bush
- a dearth of sheltering campsites because of the forest fire eliminating most mature trees
Total distance paddled is only 179 km. Number of portages is 40 which includes those travelled more than once, most relatively short. The majority of portages are those taken from camp 9 to explore various small lakes. The 1700 metre trail over steep terrain past a series of waterfalls is difficult in the spring for two reasons: not clearing the long path well enough so that I have to drag the canoe about half the distance; and not being completely over the effects of long-COVID. The five week period at camp 9 probably aids recovery. On my trip back out I clear the falls portage well and have no issues like those in the spring, feeling much better, good in fact; also helping is taking the canoe on the second carry unlike doing it last when I first start the trip. Only two short rapids require wading upstream. Rapids at the exit river are run with no problems.
There is some quite hot weather but for relatively short periods. The amount of cool wet weather is a blessing in that regard as well as limiting risk to wildfire in the area travelled unlike most other areas in Canada this year. I do experience smoky conditions often no matter the wind direction a testament to the fact there are remote fires in all quadrants. Many portages require wearing headnet against blackflies but there are few issues otherwise with bothersome bugs, never using the Bug Tent all season. Wind is strong at times making me windbound. Jeanette as usual capably provides reports via satellite phone about the nature and location of fires and weather.
New replacement equipment:
- replacement spare blade for Silky Big Boy 2000 Professional folding saw. This saw is indispensable and am very happy with its performance. With the amount of firewood and stovewood sawed and trees cleared on portage trails or campsites I usually have to replace the blade near the end of each season so buying a new spare blade is a routine requirement each year.
- new Felco® 13RH pruner to replace the old which was worn out after 11 years of service. This pruner is indispensable for cutting brush up to thumb size on portage trails or campsites. Previous cheaper tools did not cut well and broke. Over the years I did replace the Felco® spring and blade twice. I clean the tool after each season plus oil the pruner's hinge point periodically during the season.
- MAYZERO™ Water Shoes Fluorescent Green. These wading shoes worked well but were only required twice to wade up rapids so I still reserve judgement. The soles and insoles have drainage holes that hasten drying. The shoes are low top but would prefer high top to help protect ankles and to help keep them more secure on my foot; so far I have not found good high top wading shoes. These shoes are a big improvement to high top canvas runners that I have used several pairs over the years whose soles do not grip well and take longer to dry. I do wear neoprene socks inside wading shoes of any kind to help protect feet and insulate against cold.
- various small equipment replaced as usual.
New replacement ineffective equipment:
- Sabre Frontiersman bear spray holster with no retaining flap. When I purchased the holster to replace my previous worn out one I did not give any thought to the absence of a flap. The bottle caught on brush several times coming out of the holster but luckily not getting lost; once the trigger caught on something and accidentally discharged int the Tent, not a pleasant episode (camp 6). I have written the manufacturer but received no reply on any action taken other than an acknowledgement.
A follow-up report on my return home is in an Afterword with the camp 13 post. It summarizes the extent of forest fires generating the smoky conditions experienced, regrets, looking forward to next season's canoe trip and my final long-COVID follow-up.
As always, no matter the problems, I look back fondly on the trip and forward to next season's journey. Although it is great to be back home, I never feel better than when in the north country.