Another good day yesterday followed by bad today August 14 on travel day. Canoeing a total of 10 km down the lake into the exit river which presents a few small rapids, then five bigger rapids including the last under the gravel highway bridge. Donning rain gear before leaving camp rain starts in earnest before I reach the river and continues until passing beneath the bridge. At the first serious rapid I debark on boulders to don wading gear and PFD which in the end prove to be unnecessary but better to be safe than sorry. I am able to stand in the canoe above each rapid to study it well enough to continue without landing. I paddle to the right of the bridge pier; special care is needed canoeing past bridge supports, both for the impediment itself but also for trapped debris and even protruding rebar.
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Summary:
Moving on to my final campsite and the end of the trip there is a repeat of a bad weather day following good. Near the destination I paddle down five rapids with no problems surprising myself at making such good time. Heavy smoke from bad wildfires in Northwest Territories and Alberta. Leave for home three days earlier than planned as rain continues. Follow-up after arriving home: wildfire situation, regrets and thinking about the next canoe trip.
August 14:
Up by 04:30 I don raingear before leaving camp 12 because the sky definitely looks threatening. Temperature is 15°C, a moderate headwind and strong wildfire smoke smell. Light rain begins immediately and by the time I reach the exit river rain starts in earnest continuing until passing through the few upper minor rapids and the last five bigger ones. So again a good day followed the next by bad weather. In the first rapids where I thought I might need to wade, the canoe touches a few underwater boulders but with no problems. I am able to stand up in the canoe before each rapid to survey it well enough to continue without landing. Reaching the final camp 13 at 09:00 I am surprised to make the 10 km in such good time, mostly because of the faster downriver portion. Setting up camp I am soon comfortably sheltered though rain has stopped. Temperature remains cool all day with obvious smoke accompanied by strong smell, the sun a ruby red ball. Supper done, I have enough carried food for five more days. In bed by 21:30 I am tired and weary and sleep well.
August 15:
Thick smoke and heavy smell with a ruby red sun, 13°C. I call Jeanette to report that I am finished the trip, though my SPOT™ message location would so indicate. She says that there are few fires of concern in Saskatchewan; the smoke probably comes from huge fires in Alberta and Northwest Territories. A big part of the day is spent exploring trails through the mature bush. I try fishing from shore along the river but to be successful would have to take the canoe out, now secured to the top of my van. Rain starts at supper time and continues all night.
August 16:
Up by 05:00 to a very damp morning, I decide it is time to head home. I had planned to stay three more days to hopefully say goodbye to Jim and thank him for providing a safe place to park but he is away and I am ready to leave.
During the drive south I stop twice to eat along the side of the road. My plan to overnight at a hotel in Prince Albert fails when I find the city to be very busy with a large gathering so I continue on to Saskatoon by evening. Having already bought a double-sized meal of fried chicken and coleslaw to eat in the inn I stop once again along the highway for supper. Thanks to Lucie for putting me up for a few days. Looking in the mirror I am not quite as clean as I thought; I promptly buzz off my long beard and have a wonderful hot shower.
I arrive home on August 19 at suppertime and Jeanette and I stay up late (for me) catching up. It is good to be back although to hot weather of 31°C.
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August 16 before leaving camp to head home. Long unruly beard.
August 25 at home after beard trim, shave and haircut, much more presentable.
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Wildfire in Canada:
As I arrive home on August 16 most of the 20,000 population of Yellowknife, the capital of Northwest Territories, is evacuating the city because of approaching forest fire. Fires started in March in Alberta and before leaving home in May there was a provincial state of emergency with several communities having to evacuate. These fires especially contributed to the smoke-filled skies I experienced in Saskatchewan during my trip. There have been serious record-setting fires from coast to coast to coast in Canada in 2023, many unenviable records being broken yet again, a serious reminder of climate change. I realize how lucky I was to have rain all summer instead of fire.
Regrets:
Questioning if perhaps I just wimped out I have canoer's remorse about failing to ascend the target river; maybe another time. My younger self would have appreciated the challenge; my older self was not up for the task this year.
Thinking about next season's canoe trip:
As I do at the end of every canoe season I soon start thinking about where I am going to go next year. Writing in mid-January I have been plotting my route, revising checklists, repairing and replacing equipment.
Final long-COVID follow-up:
The COVID-19 pandemic that affected logistics, transportation and support for the three previous years has thankfully subsided. On my return I get the sixth COVID-19 vaccination which may become an annual event along with an annual flu shot. Feeling finally totally recovered from long-COVID I hope to never get it again. I receive a clean bill of health from my cardiologist after having one more heart scan to confirm that there are no lasting effects.