Sunrise June 20 at 05:07, Camp 2.
Arising by 03:30, smoke is thick enough that I wear an N95 mask from the time leaving the tent to the time paddling away at 07:00 when it has mostly cleared.
Notes and follow-up on use of N95 mask:
I use the 'BREATHE™ Flat Fold N95 Particulate Mask with Earloops, 1010A-E'. Made in Canada. https://www.breathemedicalmanufacturing.com/ https://medplusdistribution.com/
Ordered from https://totalprepare.ca/product/flat-fold-n95-mask-with-earloops/ 20/box, $15.95 (My local pharmacies do not currently carry the mask.)
I use the mask at home in town when there is a wildfire smoke issue. Of course it can also be used for protection against infectious agents such as COVID-19. More importantly I use the mask while wilderness canoeing in remote northern Canada. This mask was the only thing that allowed me to function this season, sometimes wearing an entire day, even sleeping a few nights with it on in my tent. I cannot emphasize enough how vital the mask is. I wore one mask for up to two weeks dependent on activity level. I knew when I needed to change to a new mask when breathing became laboured under exertion of portaging. From now on I will pack one mask per week plus some extras. (I did not have enough masks to change as often as I should have this year.) I prefer the flat fold type mask as it is easy to store, fitting in my shirt pocket (but needs to be protected from moisture). The ear loops work well and are sturdy and more functional than head loops. The mask fits me well even when my beard has grown bushy. If I had been using this mask for the past few years while canoeing I probably would not have had to start using an asthma inhaler.
Tilley hat, sunglasses and bandana shield against bright sun.
Entering the channel into the bay at the end of which is the next portage.
The 900 metre portage is at least 20 metres longer than usual because of low water conditions, not a good sign. The only advantage of less water, less rainfall, less snow is that areas that typically are wet and muddy are dry. On the last stretch I manage to carry gear across spongy floating grass to load the canoe.
A grassy area normally under water towards the end of the trail is tramped down and littered with stinky scat by river otters.
Beautifully coloured butterflies do not mind the smell, congregating on the droppings. These are the two species seen every spring in the north, one largely black, the other mostly yellow. They spread their wings to cool off in the hot sun.
Flowering Labrador tea. The white heads are tasty added to salad.
I had breakfast on the shore of an island soon after leaving camp 2, but no lunch until stopping at 16:00 on the small unnamed lake after the long portage. The bush around the lake burned a few years ago but I land at a surviving tall spruce at water's edge, glad to stop in the shade well away from the hot smelly portage landing.
Paddling one kilometre to the end of the small lake I look forward to being able to finally reach the Churchill River to set up camp. To my dismay but no real surprise the small creek that empties the lake is so shallow I cannot paddle down the now mostly dry outlet. Aie! The stream is hidden by tall cattails that I paddle into as far as I can force the canoe. I think perhaps if I cut a long pole I might be able to push through; failing that I will have to portage. Being so late and weary after the long portage I decide it would be better to camp and sort it out tomorrow. I just hope that it will not be a hard luck campsite.
In the distance I see some bare rock which always looks favourable from a distance. When I reach two of the areas the shore is quite steep so I continue on. At another spot I am overjoyed to see that there is a previously used campsite where I land at 17:30. I have to fetch a large rock from the old fireplace to anchor one end of the canoe to make it easier to unload; the other end is tied to a tree.
After unloading and parking the canoe I set up the tent. I forgo erecting the Tarp until the next day. As with many good campsites it sits on a game trail (seen passing under the Tarp).
After sleeping poorly overnight in a sloping bed, I later move the tent to a leveller location closer to shore, with additional wind exposure but much more comfortable. The tent is turned parallel to shore but it is the only suitable way; to withstand wind the tent is better turned to face into the wind.
The next morning I am greeted by a gull who watches me expectantly hoping for a fish handout. It sticks around for hours; I imagine it muttering away about my inhospitality.
Along shore the water is thick with dead mayflies.
Weary after the long portage, I decide to take the next day easy, finish setting up camp, move the tent and cut a 10 foot slender spruce pole to hopefully make my way down the outlet creek. On June 22 I load gear in the canoe to take with me, including the pole (seen laying on the thwarts). As usual while away from camp I take the Kitchen Barrel, Food Pack and Rubber Pack with personal gear. The two heavy barrels are tied to trees but at least I have one barrel and other supplies in case a bear comes to camp while I am away. The load also acts as ballast to make it easier to control the canoe.
The outlet in the distance mid-photograph.
The tall cattails and grass in the stream bed. Normally this creek would be a short quick paddle to the next lake which empties into the Churchill River. Hopefully its outlet too is not dry. I pole the canoe as far as I can to no avail. The only option is portage. On this small lake I am well aware that if a fire erupts there is no safe place and no quick exit in either direction.
Looking back upstream to the small lake of camp 3 after walking down the creek bed along the mostly dry edge.
The view downstream to the lake at the outlet.
One area that I skirt in the middle has a bit more visible but shallow water.
After walking a winding path in the grass I am glad to see good canoeable open water to the south into the next lake and to the north to the Churchill River. I tramp out a path through the grass from where I parked the canoe to the lower landing. There is evidence of a moose having walked down the creek bed to feast on greens. I go inland to cut a few alder saplings that I can force into the ground to mark the best way through to make it easier while carrying portage loads. It is frustrating when carrying a heavy load to veer off the path.
Shallow algae filled water is all that is available at either end of the now established trail. This is where the LifeStraw® excels at providing safe potable water facilitated by use of the cup filled from the bailer.
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Summary:
Long 900 metre portage uncommonly dry but even lengthier because of low water levels. Otter play areas at the lower landing are tramped down and littered with stinky scat. Ruffed grouse mother alarm walks to draw me away from her nest. Struggle to hoist canoe above head; give up half way to haul it on the ground the rest of way which I will do the remainder of the trip. Wear head net against bothersome mosquitoes and flies on the portage. A late hour, the next outlet is so low I cannot get down the creek today to reach intended target on the Churchill River. Resigned to a hard luck campsite I am pleasantly surprised to find a decent spot. Have to move tent closer to shore after an uncomfortable unlevel night's sleep. Campsite exposed to cold wind forces me to don extra clothes and enter tent to warm up. Heading back to the outlet I confirm that the creek is almost dry so have to create a 170 metre path alongside, fortunately with no clearing required. Have travelled nine kilometres, including the 900 metre portage.
June 20:
Up before the 03:30 alarm, I leave by 07:00. From my journal: "3½ hours, not very good! Several missteps and they add up! Takes a few camps to get back in a routine." Today is the summer solstice, days now will get progressively shorter. After stopping at a small island for breakfast I reach the portage by 10:00. The water level is down and the trail is uncommonly dry even in low areas, testament to the long term lack of precipitation. At the lower landing the path to the next small lake extends at least an extra 20 metres, a long portage of 900 metres. I have to walk through several otter play areas where they have tramped down the grass and left stinky scat. The two usual spring butterflies congregate on some scat closest to the water, larger yellow, smaller black, with coloured spots on the wings of both. On one walk back to fetch another load, at one of the two hills a mother ruffed grouse alarm walks across the path in front of me into the bush. Try as I may I cannot get her photo while she struts through underbrush to draw me away, making a continuous 'purr-like' sound, not a cluck. Not having seen any chicks I assume the grouse has a nest. On the first carry the trail proved to be clear, no need to use any tools, just throwing off some branches on my return. From my journal: "Take canoe second trip. A struggle to hoist canoe above head. Have to walk ahead a bit under canoe as it's turned sideways, hoist canoe up and walk back into the yoke, much more difficult than usual. Canoe is heavier but didn't think would be that noticeable after repairs (new ash rear thwart and three layers epoxy on bottom, an extra 4 lb). Definitely seems unbalanced though. I am older and could be weaker though no problem hoisting and carrying other loads that weigh a bit more than the canoe's 75 lb. Half way I give up carrying and lower to the ground, dragging the rest of the way which I will do for the rest of the trip. Underfoot, trail is good, smooth going for canoe, lots of grass or soil, few bothersome stones." All gear carried, I have taken the barrels and paddles to the farthest launch point, where they sit precariously on the higher tufts of grass, surrounded by wet spongy ground. When I step on any of the latter my boots get submerged in water, once over one boot top. I drink lots of LifeStraw® water, emptying and refilling the cup of 400 mL time after each carry. The LifeStraw® is necessary here, beaver lodge nearby, murky water with lots of algae. Blowing out the LifeStraw® before refilling the cup each time sure seems to keep it clear. For over half the carries I wear head net and wristlets against biting mosquitoes and flies. I push and pull the canoe from dry land to the chosen launch site, trying to avoid getting wet above boot tops. The canoe is placed well back from the lake onto the floating 'ground'. There is no need to tie the canoe ... and nothing to tie it to anyway. Carrying the gear still on shore to the canoe I have to step with wet feet into the stern to carry ahead making the inside muddy and wet.
Paddling straight out of the landing bay to the far shore I stop in the shade of a tall spruce tree for a very late lunch at 16:00. The spruce escaped the fire of many years ago. Sitting on the big rock shore beneath the tree to eat feels so good. Water beetles scurry around below me skimming across the lake surface, colliding into each other like bumper cars on a playground. Canoeing one kilometre to the end of the lake's outlet I find it obstructed by cattails. From my journal: "Try paddling through the tall reeds. Very shallow water ... stuck! No way I'm attempting to go through this late in the day. Only two options, poling or portaging. Would need long 10 foot pole and will probably be sure to end up wading and lucky to do so. There is likely no trail so if required would need to make one. Not a good place to be if wildfire requires quick exit, stuck between a long portage and a short but plugged creek. Resign myself to a hard luck camp if can find nothing good. See rock shores in three spots along the end of the lake adjacent to the outlet. My younger self weakly suggests wading the creek now but is quickly overruled." Backing up into the lake I paddle past the first two areas which are very steep and high up on land above the shore. From a distance many potential campsites always look promising until reached.
Moving on to the next spot, a pleasant surprise, an actual previously used campsite. The shore is steep bare rock behind which is a fireplace and small clearing. To anchor one end of the canoe I have to remove a large stone from the fireplace. The wind is cool and strong blowing directly into camp. I can see why the previous camper erected a tall fireplace to block the wind. There is some long dead brittle poplar firewood near the fireplace, indicating how long ago someone stayed here. After unloading I erect the nylon tent and toss in required sleep gear. After parking canoe and stowing all gear I eat a late supper in the partial shelter of the upturned canoe. In the tent the bed has to be angled for best levelness. After ablutions I fall asleep unclothed on the bedsheet, rising chilled later to don long underwear pajamas and snuggle in the fleece shell, then into sleeping bag midway through the night. I make the mistake of moving the head of the bed but now even less level I keep rolling off the mattress. I have travelled nine kilometres, including a 900 metre portage.
June 21:
Sleeping in, I arise at 07:30 to 10°C and a cold onshore wind with grey clouds. This campsite is really exposed to the north. I do some chores including cutting a 10 foot section of a spruce tree to try poling down the outlet creek. A common occurrence in good sites close to shore, there is a game trail running through camp right underneath the Tarp shelter now erected. Chilled, I have two shirts and rain jacket on to eat a cold breakfast in the partial shelter of the upturned canoe. Still cold I move to the tent and soon warm up though still have the extra layers on and keep falling asleep. I use the time to update my journal and map. At 13:00 I head outside for lunch. Despite the wind exposure of this site I am very glad to be here rather than some hard luck spot hacked out of the bush. Despite having got quite sweaty I have had no bath two days in a row, just a washcloth wash. Surprisingly mosquitoes are bothersome and I turn in early at 18:45, temperature 15°C. I had thought to move on today but am going to stay another day.
June 22:
Up by 06:30 it is a cold 10°C with a light wind, overcast cloud, slight smoke smell. Having slept poorly last night on a bed that slopes sideways and downwards I move the tent closer to shore to a hopefully better place. Fortunately I am able to drag the tent after removing gear and pulling tent pegs. There seems to be a level side for the bed but will find out tonight. A negative is that the tent is turned parallel to shore but it is the only suitable way; the tent is better turned to face into the wind. I load the canoe with the Kitchen Barrel, Food Pack, two paddles, Rubber Pack, Tool Bag, small tarp, Ropes Bag, gun, PFD, sponge, bailer. It is good to have more than the necessities in case a bear invades camp while I am away. The load also provides ballast to make it easier to control the canoe. Paddling the half kilometre to the outlet, it is time to see how I get out of here. With the much lighter load I try again to paddle down the creek through the cattails. I do not get much farther than the first time. Backing out and moving the canoe over a bit the pole is no more effective than the paddle. Getting out of the canoe I step on dry clumps of grass to push and pull as far as possible. I walk into the bush on the side with the shortest distance to the outlet to rule out an existing trail. It is a mixed poplar and spruce forest. The creek valley is about 200 metres wide, cattails in the middle underlaid with some water that has no visible flow, tall dry grass mixed with green growth interspersed with sweet gale brush about the same height. Grass is growing in very uneven raised clumps along both sides of the creek bed. There are a few side channels intersecting from the bush that drain water and where beaver in the past hauled branches cut from the bush to the water and then to their lodge in the lake. I walk along the creek bed marked by the cattails mostly on and through dry grass dodging the high clumps but also some wet and muddy spots; my boots and socks are now soaked. After crossing a few of the side channels I walk to the outlet into the next lake where I can see both north towards the Churchill River and south towards the lake. Stepping into or over the channels will be more difficult while carrying heavy loads so will be important not to rush. I have fallen once while carrying a heavy barrel and it is difficult to hoist again directly from the ground. There is no water running from the creek into the next lake whose water level is noticeably low. On the trampled grass near shore is otter scat. There is no way of getting down the creek itself that almost does not exist. Back to the canoe I discard my nice 10 foot pole. At bush edge I cut down nine saplings of poplar and alder to use as markers for a portage path. Starting at the canoe I move away from the creek bed so I do not walk willy-nilly differently each carry. I only need to mark the trail at the start amongst tall grass and brush. On my return to the canoe I step off the distance at 170 metres. This is the easiest portage trail I have ever made, not having to fell trees. The canoe is parked down the start of the creek where I can back in with the load. It may be difficult to find level stable ground from which to hoist the heavy barrels sitting on the lighter Kitchen Barrel.
Back at camp for lunch I hear a flicker nearby, the distinctive loud krrrrr, krrrrr, krrrrr call; at the previous camp I saw a red-shafted flicker. At home I only see yellow-shafted flickers. They are no longer listed as separate species but simply as northern flicker. Again it is too cold for a bath so I once more settle for washcloth. I have smelled light wildfire smoke all day. To escape bothersome mosquitoes while eating lunch I set up the Bug Tent and do several puzzles in between falling asleep. Before supper in the lee of the upturned canoe I prepack; afterwards I retreat to the tent to escape the cold wind and am in bed early, the bed proving to be much more comfortable.