04:45 June 27, a loon and I greet each other at sunrise camp 4, smoke haze at horizon.
06:29, canoe loaded ready to shove off.
Wear mask since arising and continue to so all day.
Smoke very obvious all round as I paddle to breakfast stop.
Canoe through winding channels towards the north side of Black Bear Island Lake until I reach the outlet of a river up which I will head towards my target area.
Make my way up the lower rapids of the river, having to backtrack twice when grounded on shallows but am fortunate to not have to wade.
Approaching the outlet of the middle rapids it is obvious that the portage will be blocked with many windblown down trees.
Rather than bother to check the portage which I know will need to be cleared I decide to wade about 100 metres up the rapids. I unsuccessfully try to go up the more open right hand side but am stymied by deep fast water that wants to sweep me off my feet. So I decide to head up the left side through a partial opening of limbs on a fallen pine tree. This photo is taken from the upper side after managing to force the canoe through the branches; to the left in the photo is the main current which I could not ascend. In hindsight after breaking off some branches and ramming my way through I know I should have parked the canoe lower down and waded up to use the saw to expand the gap.
Unbeknownst to me in the process of going under the tree my spare paddle is pulled out of the canoe down the rapids. After parking the canoe I wade down and fortunately find the paddle floating trapped by another tree. The paddle had been loosely tucked under bungee cords and I should have secured the paddle better in the canoe.
Soaked from chest down, after the canoe is tied up along shore I change back into regular clothes from wading gear. My shirt though will have to dry as I wear it.
Looking back downstream to the middle rapids.
The devastation of downed trees along the river indicates how bad the portage must be and how much time it would have taken to clear the 220 metre trail.
The outlet of the upper rapids. It is deeper and faster than that of the one just waded; later I see that the river is overlaid with dozens of fallen trees so walking up would have been impossible.
The upper end of the rapids that empties the target lake above, heavy smoke overlaying it. This photo is taken after clearing the 180 metre portage and carrying gear.
The photos below start from the upper end of the just cleared trail as I return to the canoe at the bottom of the rapids.
It takes two hours of sawing and throwing off trees to make it passable. Even so carrying gear involves scrambling or stepping over 24 trees too big to saw. (I counted them on one walk back to retrieve more gear.) Even if I wanted to carry the canoe it would have been impossible over the obstructions. Blackflies and mosquitoes are bad, hence the head net.
Heading up the next lake I continue to wear the mask. I investigate a small island where I once camped but it is even less hospitable than then; the only reason I check is because it is not much out of the way, it is getting late and I am ready to stop.
Continuing up the lake I stop on the mainland at the side of a long channel next to a big island; I confirm that my old camp is still livable. It is 100 metres inland and well sheltered, a nicely open treed site with a safe spot for a fireplace. Near shore I have to clear a trail over a fallen spruce tangled with small trees and brush it took down with it. There is good shade in which to tie the two heavy barrels; I would prefer a spot closer to camp but do not want to add harness and carry that distance up the steep hill.
Camp is on the other side of a hill with a long steep slope up and down which provides good protection from wind. In the photo note the bannock baking beside the fireplace just to the left of the Tarp shelter. A game trail, well defined with toed-in bear tracks worn into the moss over many years, runs under the Tarp into the bush on the left and in front of the tent on the right.
The tent is pitched in a levelish spot but there are tall dead spruce trees beside it that I fell. They are so dry and brittle that the saw eats into them easily. As often the case, even though I vow to never let it happen again, late and anxious to erect the tent I overlook the dead trees so cut them down afterward. Thankfully with correctly placed saw cuts and a push they drop away from the tent.
A portion of the game trail.
Recent bear scat.
Wet clothing from wading up the creek hangs to dry, some items after rinsing in the lake (along with bedding being aired).
Twice while wading I landed in a deep hole in the river over my waist so the Belt Bag was immersed. All contents are spread out to dry. The small Ziploc® bags are not at all leakproof; I use freezer bags which are thicker and have a double seal to contain many of the items. The Belt Bag is my emergency kit if all else is lost.
**********************
Summary:
Wear mask against smoke all day while paddling to next camp. Because of shallow water and down trees a big job getting up the three sets of rapids to next lake. Lose then luckily recover one paddle downstream on middle rapid as I wade under and through branches of a fallen tree. Two hours clearing upper portage which still requires carrying gear over many large trees. Not in bed until midnight at camp 5, a long day. Weather cooperates to dry gear and clothing after getting soaked wading. Jeanette reports of new fires on my planned route. Have travelled 12 km including the 180 metre portage and 100 metres wading past the 220 metre non-portage.
June 27:
Away in good time after arising at 03:30 with smoke in the air I wear a mask. Dead calm there are perfect reflections in the water of the clouds and landscape. As I approach the island where I eat breakfast I hear on the nearby mainland what sounds like an animal crying, perhaps a bear or wolf cub? Curious but not that curious I do not investigate. The river outlet into Black Bear Island Lake that I target is quite shallow. From my journal: "Twice on the lower rapids think am going to have to wade but after backing off I find a way around the rocks. When I approach the middle rapids I can see from a distance that tall trees are blown down helter-skelter along the rapids where the portage is, or rather was. With the lower water levels I decide to wade, not even bothering to check for a portage that am sure no longer exists. Try wading the right hand side but midway current is too fast and deep. Backing up I cross to the left side once I reach shallower water. When I get to the fastest spot I fear cannot wade farther. A large pine with big branches has fallen all the way out to the main rapid where I first tried going up. Canoe gets stuck on underlying boulders but I manage to strongarm it across to the side to get past; not good for the new epoxy coating on the poor hull. I pull the canoe through between boughs where a convenient but small hole exists which I enlarge somewhat by breaking off branches. In hindsight I know I should have backed the canoe up to a safe spot and used the saw to make the hole bigger. The canoe wedges tight between branches but it is doable with just enough water to float the canoe. Hard work, with moments of doubt! Finally the canoe is through. Make my way upstream through the now gentler but deeper rapids where I drop to mid-abdomen several times. Reaching the area of the upper end of the old portage I tie up. Right away I realize the spare paddle is gone! Aie! It had been sitting on one side of the canoe resting under two bungee cords securing the Tarp covered load. When I pulled the canoe through the branches they must have yanked the paddle out. Aie! I should have put the paddle firmly inside the canoe, not just tucked along the edge of the load! Won't happen again! Already thinking of what to do if no spare paddle I wade down the rapids; I shudder to think if I see it farther downstream floating on the pond, then having to decide whether to take the canoe back down to retrieve it! At least I can't get any wetter unless I fall. At the bottom of the rapids lies the paddle floating trapped under another down tree! I give thanks out loud for saving my paddle. After walking back up to canoe I change back into dry clothes."
From my journal: "Paddle upstream with fears of down trees on the portage along the upper rapids. And those fears prove true. This is much faster and deeper and I know not wadeable. Later seeing multiple down trees right across the river I realize not doable for that reason anyway." Unloading the canoe I store barrels and Food Pack in the shade. The 180 metre portage is obviously not useable for carrying loads. It is hard to tell exactly where the trail is. From my journal: "Not sure where to best start cutting trail, just walking through the bush is a challenge. Take tools and go a winding way to the upper end of the rapids emptying the target lake. Many large down trees, right to the upper end even directly at the lake. Aie! At least now can see a portion of the trail. Had thought perhaps could take a new route but the wind blew trees down in a wide area. Start cutting along the old trail, still the best and shortest route. Two hours of sawing, pruning and axing. Saw through several medium sized trees, kudos to the Silky saw blade. But the many large trees need a bigger saw so will have to cross over top. No way to carry the canoe even if I was up to it after the wading and the cutting. There are at least 20 large trees to cross over when portaging, all at different heights. Some I have to sit on and shinny over. Portaging takes two hours and am approaching exhaustion, stopping to rest multiple times. Think about setting up camp at upper end but get my third wind, aided by eating lunch. Second wind was after clearing the trail. Make sure to drink lots of LifeStraw® water after each trip. Wear head net because blackflies and mosquitoes bothersome. Temperature seems high, I am hot and sweat soaked. Have to loosen the head net to place LifeStraw® underneath to drink."
Loading canoe it is getting late and I think perhaps I could camp at an island about one kilometre away. However no matter how much I try to convince myself, it is no more suitable than when I camped there several years before, wind exposed fireplace and poor tent site. I have not gone very far out of my way so move on a few more kilometres to my 2021 spot, hopefully still usable. Landing I have to make my way around a large fallen tree and I hope I will not find the campsite devastated with down timber like the other areas seen today. From my journal: "Usual path up the long steep 45° hill is blown over with large trees, not a good sign. Climb over the hill to see that the campsite is still okay. Good! I'm home! Back to the canoe I start the SPOT™ at 19:00. I cut a hole through the brush and small trees taken down with the large one to clear a more direct path and to make a place to tie the two heavy barrels. Unload and park canoe, placing some gear underneath. Remaining gear to campsite. Getting late so no Tarp, no fire, no hot supper. Clear tent site of one down tree and multiple branches. Place all loose gear in front vestibule of tent. Lots of blackflies, mosquitoes, flies so want to minimize risk of bugs getting inside. Think of starting smoky fire to shoo blackflies but by the time I'm done other tasks it is getting darker and fewer blackflies as they get to bed before me. Shoo bugs under closed vestibule with my hat and throw loose gear quickly inside through a small opening of side zipper. Next I put big gear for tent into vestibule, close vestibule, shoo bugs and throw this gear inside. When I exit ... 'now' I notice a tall standing dead spruce at the front of the tent ... instead of checking before I put up tent like I'm supposed to! Successfully fell it with saw alongside tent. Then four more such trees! Aie! Barry, Barry, Barry! All successfully dropped where I want. Two very tall easily topple when I jostle them after sawing. One gets hung up in a tree top; I let it's stump drop then manage to finagle it sideways through where I want it to fall between trees. Whew! Sawdust on tent front vestibule shows how close tree was ... too close! Then to shore to rinse face. Sweaty ever since wading hours ago. Into tent to lay out gear. Luckily folded small tarp and two clothes bags raise lower side of bed enough to be 'good enough'. Light candle to minimize use of headlamp. Eat supper, water from canteen. On bed by midnight, no clothes on till later. Sleep well, the sleep of the weary and tired." Have travelled 12 km including the 180 metre portage after two hours cutting trees and 100 metres wading past the 220 metre non-portage.
June 28:
Up at 06:30, not quite my usual seven hours of sleep, but I slept well and the bed proved to be level enough. After setting up grill in fireplace to boil water I erect clothesline for wet gear. I rinse some clothes to add to the line including socks and sweat stained light shirt. Thankfully the fire shoos blackflies but other flies remain bothersome. For breakfast I make last night's intended supper, oriental noodles with Parmesan cheese and sardines along with hot water, protein bar, yesterday's lunch bannock, an eclectic breakfast meal. Hungry it all tastes good. Mostly clear, there is no smoke ... yay! I put up the Tarp shelter and lay out all gear from Belt Bag in the sun to dry; it would be nice to have a waterproof bag but have never found an acceptable one. Midmorning temperature 28°C, by early afternoon it rises to 31°C, an indication of how hot it was yesterday. Pesky flies terrible, after a glorious bath I sit in the Bug Tent under the Tarp, no clothes on. Midafternoon there are a few drops of rain so take down drying; all gear dry except heavy socks. The thunderstorm passes by but accompanying cloud and wind are nice enough to cool temperature to 24°C, much better! Out loud I give thanks, to include the earlier sun that dried gear and clothes. While in Bug Tent I update journal, maps and do some puzzles, in between napping. After supper there is a refreshing breeze but it carries smoke so am wearing mask again. Back in the Bug Tent to avoid blackflies and flies, by 20:00 I retire to the tent.
June 29 Sunday:
Up by 05:30 I head to the lake shore right away to try fishing but no bites so take the canoe out to catch a 21 inch pike for supper chowder. Landing at the small island nearby to clean the fish, I confirm that it could be a campsite, however very exposed. At lunch under the Tarp it is a hot 32°C and a thunderstorm drops heavy rainfall for half hour which cools temperature to 25°C. Being Sunday I check for satellite message from Jeanette: "New fire McTavish near Paull [where I am heading]. Pisew 30 percent contained moving east. No fire ban. OK here." I return a text message: "will keep to plan depending on your next week report. last two portages bad. smoke not too bad so far. luv." Blackflies and flies bad, I move to Bug Tent after shooing them off my clothing in the campfire smoke. A pair of gray jays are whistle calling nearby. I was fortunate to get bannock baked and satellite phone done before rain. There have been passing thunderstorms from three different directions, one dropping light rain at supper for 30 minutes. Before bedtime it rains several times as thunderstorms roll through. I have prepacked to hopefully move on tomorrow.