July 10 sunrise through wildfire smoke (03:53, 04:47).
Breakfast stop after leaving camp 8 entails some excitement. As I tie up the canoe a large boulder slides into the water directly beside the bow wedging the canoe between another larger boulder. The loud splash startles me and I give thanks that no harm done. As I examine the photos I have no explanation for the white marks on the rock shore; I do not have a note in my journal nor remember where the fallen boulder first lay. Perhaps the offending boulder had fallen down the slope earlier?
Traversing a wide bay the crosswind pushes me from the desired route. As often the case I have to aim the canoe for a different point to reach the target, in this case quarter into the wind aiming for the midpoint of the bay's long far shore to in fact properly reach the peninsula at the mouth of the bay to enter the desired channel. If I pointed the canoe directly at the desired target I would end up far downwind on the large island across the channel. The same tactic applies if crossing a fast moving river.
Passing a big spread of wind felled trees.
Reaching the outlet river previously portaged past on June 27 after cutting a trail. It is even more obvious from the lake that the rapids are blocked by down trees.
After portaging down the 180 metre trail I head towards the middle rapids that I had waded up through the limbs of the fallen pine tree on June 27. Passing through between the top of the fallen pine tree on the right and a log sticking into the current on the other side was not without incident and drama. Running the rapids the bow of canoe gets hung up on that darn tree. I think a strong wind gust pivoted me sideways to the right when I wanted to go left ... or poor paddling technique ... or both! Held by the tree I have to step out to pull canoe backwards, then upstream far enough to get back to the main rapids. Hit a boulder half way down. Doesn't go as planned! Water in canoe from my clothes and boots.
After passing through the middle rapids I stop on the shore of the pool below for lunch. As I land a merganser takes wing to chase a bald eagle away from her ducklings paddling in the river. The eagle lands in a spruce tree close by me, perching there the entire time I am eating. I have seen eagles chasing ducks before but not the other way around.
Sunset through smoke haze July 10 at 20:52 at camp 9.
Late morning July 11 thick smoke requires wearing an N95 mask all day.
Midmorning July 12 again smoky as seen over the lake across a field of fireweed flowers, again wearing mask most of the day.
Because the previously used tent site of old camp 4 is unlevel I clear a better spot beside the tied barrels, closer to shore and the parked canoe but unfortunately out of sight of the fireplace and Tarp shelter. This place proves to be level and dry, much more restful.
Overturned boulders and shredded log in the search for ants illustrate that an island no matter how far from mainland is not safe from black bears who are quite good swimmers.
The pole under the Tarp shelter props it higher to better shed rain.
A 31 inch pike provides a hearty meal sauteed with couscous and 1-1/2 cups of red currants picked nearby.
Three fish also caught from shore, cubed for supper chowder (15" walleye, two 21" pike). The orange colour of the pike flesh is due to eating fresh water shrimp.
New this year is a waterproof Clothes Pack "NRS 110L Heavy-Duty Bill's Bag". It replaces a similar sized pack that had to be lined with waterproof bags. The new pack is a larger version of my waterproof personal pack, that I affectionately call my 'Rubber Pack' that has provided years of good service.
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Summary:
Paddling against strong wind adds two hours to my travel time. Running the middle rapids does not go as planned, canoe getting hung up in the branches of the big tree forcing me to step into the water to recover. A duck chases a bald eagle that was diving on her family; the eagle lands in a tree beside me the entire time I eat lunch. Successful fishing for two meals. Smoke bad, wear mask for most of two days. Biting flies drive me into Bug Tent, really awful when bathing. Finally get some rainfall. To help counter any smoke-related issues I use HYLO® GEL eye drops, eye exercises and an inhaler. Daily neck exercises prove effective at preventing neck stiffness. Distance travelled 16 km including the 180 metre portage and running two rapids (100, 300 metres), stopping at old camp 4.
July 10:
Up at 03:30, packed and ready to leave I eat breakfast, away by 05:30. From my journal: "Easy paddling in the lee of the wind until I hit strong west wind which continues all day. Easily adds two hours to my journey time. In places passing promontories the wind wants to drive me onto boulders or onto shore. The only reprieve is when I turn south along a long island in the late afternoon." Reaching the lake outlet blocked by down timber I use the portage with all the fallen trees I cut on June 27. Before using the trail I decide to cut out several fallen spruce at the landing that I had not bothered to remove the first time. From my journal: "Suddenly I am being buzzed not just by horseflies but by wasps! They must have a nest under the down trees. Luckily I am done clearing. Give thanks that they let me pass without being bitten. Wasps and skunks are two creatures that I will flee from." Paddling on to the middle rapids of the big pine tree whose branches I waded through on June 27 I am hopeful to make an uneventful ride downstream. From my journal: "However running the rapids the bow of canoe gets hung up on that darn tree. I think a strong wind gust pivoted me sideways to the right when I wanted to go left ... or poor paddling technique ... or both! Have to step out of canoe to pull it backwards, then upstream far enough to get back to the main rapids. Hit a boulder half way down. Doesn't go as planned! Water in canoe from my clothes and boots. Below rapids sponge out most water. Stop at a bare rock shore for late lunch. Just then a bald eagle alights in a large spruce only 20 metres away, chased by a merganser duck to protect its young which the eagle was diving on. Change to dry socks, two pairs soaked, one at breakfast when I slip into lake; jeans and boots soaked again. Hadn't donned wading gear, but did put on PFD. (I rarely wear the life jacket on flat water unless strong winds with big waves, which can be scarier than rapids sometimes.) Then on to run the shallow lower rapids where I get stopped by boulders a few times, having to wiggle back and out. Thankfully don't have to step out of canoe to get dry socks wet ... but close. Hard to see underlying boulders because of the strong wind. I remark out loud that haven't been asking for a delay in rain ahead of travelling or of portaging. We need rain so bad ... bring it on whenever! On the other hand I say quite often, usually at camp though, 'Come on rain, come on rain!'"
Reaching camp 9 (old camp 4) at 17:00, I am pleased to make such good time in the presence of the strong wind all day, having predicted 18:00 arrival. Without the wind I would have been here by 15:00. Hoping for the best I use the old tent site but even with repositioning on the mossy rocky mound proves to be no better. My bed is in the middle of the tent with a big hollow underneath, but surprisingly I sleep well probably because I am tired and weary, in bed by 22:00. Distance travelled 16 km including the 180 metre portage and running two rapids (100, 300 metres).
July 11:
Arising at 05:00, smoky 15°C and damp with humidity, there is a very light west wind almost dead calm. I catch three fish along shore (one walleye and two pike). Flies and mosquitoes are bothersome. Crows are cawing nonstop on nearby islands. I wear a mask all day, smoke getting progressively thicker. Before a late lunch I move the tent to hopefully a better site, solid ground and less humid. The spot is where the barrels are tied near the parked canoe, after cutting out quite a bunch of branches and a few small trees. From my journal: "Flies of all sizes driving me crazy so supper of fish chowder is eaten in the Bug Tent. Bug Tent is in the open not under the Tarp shelter to catch a bit more breeze. Biting flies of all sizes are terrible at bath time, forcing me to duck into the water often. Quite a full pot of chowder, thinking would be too much I eat it all with gusto." Overcast with cloud and smoke the sun glows as a ruby red ball. My eyes are smarting, the effect of smoke, the only protection is the use of HYLO® GEL eye drops three times daily along with eye exercises. Doing neck exercises daily at bedtime also proves to be beneficial, no more stiffness, better than taking an anti-inflammatory. I can tell the usefulness of the N95 mask, reinforced when removed in the Bug Tent to eat supper, getting choked up with smoke. I continue to use an inhaler twice daily to help counter any smoke-related breathing issues. In bed by 21:00 I am glad I moved the tent to a drier area, much more comfortable, bed level with no propping up required.
July 12:
Four weeks, last day of month one, up at 04:45. Light west wind, very smoky I have to wear mask until midafternoon. I wonder if I am getting smoke from the Pinehouse fire Jeanette mentioned. Light rainfall starts before I get up and continues for 15 minutes after. Come on rain! Darn flies are bothersome. Intending to take canoe out to fish, with heavy smoke and some rain I instead fish from shore at my landing. Lure chased by a small pike I catch a big one, 31 inches, plenty for supper. In the Bug Tent under the Tarp shelter for breakfast no clothes on, I am only wearing the mask. Doing some puzzles, occasionally napping, I eat lunch and then aliquot grub for tomorrow, thankful that I have respite in the Bug Tent from the darn bugs. Midafternoon rain steadily falls for an hour. Yay ... with the rain and stronger wind I can finally doff the mask. Temperature only reaches 21°C, but until the rain and wind starts feels much hotter, even undressed. Managing to cook supper in a lull from rain, flies are still bothersome. Thank goodness the fast moving clouds are rain bearing. Dressed again I have to wear rain jacket to add wood to the fire until dishes are washed and dried. Full with a big meal of sauteed fried fish in couscous and red currants, rainfall is intermittent, temperature cooled to 16°C. I prepack to move on tomorrow before heading to bed early.