July 7 sunrise through smoke while packing up camp 7 (04:41, 05:04, 05:19). I wear a mask all day.
Cloudy and smoky, 06:14 leaving camp towards the first rapids of the day at a narrows just upstream. The bottom photo is a downstream shot taken after paddling up the rapids.
The second rapids. The spare paddle is used as a walking stick to more safely walk down the boulders to take the photo.
The third rapids, the bottom photo looking back downstream.
Approaching the fourth rapids of the morning where I have always been able to paddle/pole upstream.
The area has obviously been burned, probably last year, dotted with pretty pink fireweed flowers.
As I approach the rapids they appear to be impassable due to fallen trees. I dock the canoe to investigate.
The rapids are blocked with fire killed trees from both sides.
Looking upstream through the stark landscape bracketing thick smoke to the north.
Stopping for breakfast on some bare rock I need to decide whether to continue upstream. The small fire is to shoo bothersome blackflies. With a bit of clearing it would be possible to portage past the rapids, much easier than trying to cut a path through the fallen trees littering the narrows. The smoke has got thicker as I progress upstream and to the north appears even heavier. Can't see the trees and hilltops in the distance. Jeanette's text about the fires is proving true. There are two portages farther ahead which I suspect will have been burned so likely will need clearing. Portages I can deal with but denser smoke indicates the likelihood that the fires are active. I reluctantly make the decision to retreat.
Turning around I backtrack through the three rapids ascended this morning. Just downstream from previous camp 7 is the narrows leading to a fourth set of rapids about 400 metres long. I am concerned that with lower water levels running them may prove difficult. Heading down I manage to keep to the narrow main current through the twists and turns edged by boulders, lightly bottoming twice and bouncing off a boulder with the side of the canoe. The lower photo looks back upstream to the bottom of the rapids.
Paddling on I approach another set of rapids. I spend one hour checking for a portage and walking along the 400 metre rapids to determine if they can be run. From the top I cannot see past the first sharp turn. The only way to examine the rapids is to walk through thick bush at the side. They are in the shape of an 'S' running over and through boulders, with several constrictions and a log extending into one spot, lots of shallow water but several deep areas too. A portage would entail much cutting plus climbing a steep hill. So running the rapids is my choice. Paddling back to the head of the rapids I wade the canoe downstream having to manhandle it over and off boulders. Once committed to the stream there is no going back. At the last part of the 'S' I have to jump in and fend the canoe off boulders to finally end in a deep pool at the bottom of the rapids. Whew! A big sigh of relief! The last photo looks back upstream from the bottom pool.
Next is a 70 metre curving rapid which I think can be run without checking although I cannot see its entirety. The lower photo looks back upstream after successfully making it to another pool at the bottom.
The following two rapids are not runnable, the first 250 metre portage requiring one hour of clearing but luckily the last 150 metre trail is in decent shape needing only minor work.
Finally reaching the lake of old camp 5, I stop at 22:00, a very long late day, not in bed until midnight, too weary to eat supper.
Smoky sunrise at 04:49 July 9.
July 9 smoke billowing up in the north from where I just returned, glad but sad to have reluctantly decided to retreat. After that decision yesterday I am not following my route plan and my contacts will not know where to expect me next.
A woodchuck (groundhog). I made a poor imitation of their alarm whistle but got its attention for the photos.
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Summary:
Paddle and line up three rapids to an impassable fourth due to down fire killed trees. Stopping for breakfast on shore I must decide what to do. The latter could be portaged after some clearing but the main problem is the heavy smoke upstream probably from the fires Jeanette described. Already having to wear a mask it may not make sense to head toward the fire, the next two portages just upstream probably needing clearing, not to mention the multiple portages farther north, all of which may be in the current active wildfire area. Reluctantly decide to head back downstream all the way to Black Bear Island Lake. Soaked in the rapids below my chest, wet with sweat above, I finally make my way down all rapids and portages. Sky overcast all day with smoke hiding the sun I cannot tell when it really is nighttime. Make camp late at 22:00, not in bed till midnight, a long day, too weary to eat, just glad to shed wet clothes and lay down, thankful for safe trip. The next day is much clearer though still smoky and manage to dry all gear. The following day I see a big smoke plume in the north where I was initially heading, reaffirming my decision to retreat. Very smoky again, prematurely dark. Masking is now second nature. Many times I find myself repeating the mantra 'Come on rain, come on rain ...', to no avail. Distance travelled 14 kilometres including six rapids and portages around two other rapids (In order: run three rapids 30 metres each, run 400 metres, wade 400 metres, run 70 metres, portage 250 metres after one hour of clearing, portage 150 metres).
July 7:
I head upstream by 06:00 after arising at 03:30. Paddling up as far as possible at two rapids I have to line the rest of the way, about 30 metres each, followed by paddling up a third rapid. When reaching the fourth rapid at 07:30 it is shallow and clogged by multiple down logs. This is at a narrow pinch point where a forest fire in the last year or two has dropped the trees from both sides of the river. Previously I have been able to paddle and pole through these rapids. I land to have breakfast and to assess the need to portage or if it is possible to wade. The landscape is black and barren burned along both sides of the rapids and upstream as far as I can see. Blackflies bothersome, I start a small fire on the bare rock while eating breakfast. From my journal: "Wear mask since getting up. Upstream smoke is quite thick. Assume smoke is from the Keith/McTavish fires Jeanette told me about which are my target lakes a few kilometres north. At this pinched rapid have to portage or wade, the former likely. Either way messy. Quite sure cannot pull canoe over the down trees in the water. The real problem though is such heavy smoke ahead. Can't see the trees and hilltops in the distance. Probably next two portages have been recently burned too so between clearing those plus a new one here I doubt if I can make it to the lakes ahead today. Meanwhile working in heavy smoke with no knowledge if the multiple portages even farther ahead are doable because of the fire Jeanette talked about. Initiate SPOT™ to show how far I have ascended the river. After eating, wavering back and forth, finally reluctantly decide to head back downstream all the way to Black Bear Island Lake. Mainly because of the fire/smoke threat."
From my journal: "Packing up I turn back, running the three rapids previously ascended, just barely, and literally, scraping through in places (exacerbated with my weight not a factor when wading upstream). Downstream just past last camp 7 I run the winding 400 metre rapids, again scraping through in a few shallow places and at a turn bouncing off one boulder. I remark out loud 'How much does that all damage the new coating?'. When I reach the head of the next rapids I pull the canoe up on some stones on the left side walking downstream a short way on boulders protruding through the water. I realize there is no point scouting along that side of the river, very shallow and broadening out a long way to reach the shore many metres inland. Back to the canoe I paddle to the right side to tie up to the closer shore. I spend one hour checking for a portage, walking along the 400 metre rapids to determine if they can be run or at least waded. From the top I cannot see past the first sharp turn. The only way to examine the rapids is to walk through thick bush and brush at the side. The main course of the river is in the shape of an 'S' running over and through boulders, with several constrictions and a log extending into one spot, lots of shallow water but several deep areas too. A portage would entail much cutting plus climbing over a steep hill. So wading and possibly running some of the rapids is my choice. After donning wading gear, safely storing clothes and the few loose items, I paddle back to the first stretch again. Wading downstream holding on to the gunwale I make it to the first turn. Once committed to the stream there is no going back. Start the descent holding the canoe most often from the stern, not advancing too quickly; don't want to lose hold of the canoe! There are several spots where canoe is wedged on or between boulders, requiring some heavy manhandling, pulling and lifting sideways. Aie! Again not good for the hull's new coating. Usually I stay erect with water below waist. Once though I slip in fast water, luckily backwards, to get dunked up to my chest. At the very bottom of the last part of the 'S' I manage to jump into canoe as it descends a steep deep last rapid, fending canoe off boulders at the side to finally end in the pool at the outlet of the rapids. Whew! A big sigh of relief!"
After sponging out water from the canoe, brought in on wading gear, I paddle down the pool to the next rapid. It is just canoeable although I have to hop out once to haul the canoe back upstream to move over to the correct channel. This rapids is about 70 metres long. Moving on to another set of rapids I scout out alongside it but it proves to not be runnable or wadeable. Landing on the left side there is a 250 metre portage that takes at least one hour of clearing. I could crash through blindly but it is too easy to step into a hole or trip on unseen underfoot obstacles. From my journal: "Thinking portages done and I'm on the target lake I get a surprise! Another non-runnable non-wadeable rapids! I misread map! My mistake! Aie! Disappointing! The advantage of solo canoeing - only myself to blame! C'est la vie! All day has been extremely overcast, no sun visible. Hard to tell how late it is, prematurely dark all afternoon. Another portage, 150 metres on left, in good shape, no clearing needed ... yay! Finally down the last rapid into calm lake waters."
It has been calm all day, wearing head net against blackflies and mosquitoes. I slip on my mask again, and should have done so earlier. Anxious to get to a camp I slog on, one stroke per second, stroke after stroke. Getting to the edge of the current map, I had thought I could just turn the map over, but no, I need the previous map put away at last camp thinking it would not be required again. Aie! But the hopeful campsite I am aiming for lies only a kilometre or so ahead ... I think! I make sure to aim far enough to the mainland on my right to not miss the spot. If I do pass it I would have to paddle about three more kilometres to old camp 4. Then for sure it would be darker ... but is probably getting dark now anyway. Head net removed for better visibility, mosquitoes are taking full advantage. Buggers! Seeing what I think is my target landmark about one kilometre farther on but hard to tell for sure. Suddenly I see an associated landmark on the right shore of this bay so now am more confident to be on track. Sure enough as I get closer I am almost certain to be at the next camp site. Landing at 22:00 I am now definitely at the correct location. Activating the SPOT™, I unload, storing unneeded gear under canoe. From my journal: "Mosquitoes are bad, buzzing like crazy in the dozens around me. Headlamp on I set up camp. In bed by midnight it's been a long day! From waist down I'm soaked with water; above with sweat. Anyway I look at it ... I'm soaked! After killing mosquitoes I sleep okay but take awhile to slow down, settle down. Nice to be in dry pajamas. Still never saw the sun, and it is very dark, but prematurely so. Forgo supper, weary I just want to lay down!" Distance travelled 14 kilometres including six rapids and portages around two other rapids (In order: run three rapids 30 metres each, run 400 metres, wade 400 metres, run 70 metres, portage 250 metres after one hour of clearing, portage 150 metres).
July 8:
After only six hours of sleep I rise at 06:00 to half each of blue sky and white cumulus. Thankfully favourable wind has driven yesterday's smoke away but it is still evident at horizons. Clothesline up, I hang bedding, wading gear, rinsed clothes (two pairs heavy socks, jeans, shirt, handkerchief, bandana, head net). Set out to dry are boots, insoles, chair towel, Waist Pack and contents. Hungry, I eat today's breakfast plus yesterday's supper. Temperature rises throughout the day to 30°C by midafternoon, hot but good for drying everything. Flies are quite bothersome. By suppertime all gear and clothing is dry, including the heavy socks which take the longest. My boots sit in the sun for several hours; they have never been so dry. It is nice to have cleaner clothes along with gear clean, dry and organized. Overcast with light smoke, hot and sweaty I have exclaimed out loud several times 'Come on rain, come on rain ...'. It has been a busy day with no time for fishing so hope to do so tomorrow. I give thanks for having safely descended the river and for being able to dry clothing and gear today. Hot all night I only lay on the bedsheet, never even getting in the fleece shell.
July 9:
Having slept well, I rise at 04:30. I want to get an early start to catch fish from shore so not to have to take canoe out. Almost calm, quite smoky I wear a mask. After catching two small 14" fish, pike and walleye, I give thanks for providing supper. Trying for another fish the lure unfortunately gets snagged on the bottom, losing the lure and leader. By lunchtime it is a hot 27°C but thankfully smoke clears after the breeze switches from north to east. Periodically I repeat the mantra 'Come on rain, come on rain ...'. Midafternoon I have a wonderful bath, using a Lush Conditioner bar for the first time ever so hopefully it will relieve the itchy scalp at the sides where my hat sits. At suppertime I see a big smoke plume in the north where I was initially heading, reaffirming my decision to retreat. Very smoky again, making it prematurely dark, I have to wear mask. Prepacking done, I head to bed. Cooling to 12°C tonight I do use the fleece shell.