Early morning at the dry creek portage after leaving camp 3 to move on to paddle north of the Churchill River. The canoe sits as far into shore as possible.
After all gear is carried I drag the canoe through the grass and brush 170 metres to the creek outlet.
Moving north down the channel that empties into the Churchill River running through large Black Bear Island Lake. Preceding me is a pelican who puts on an interesting performance repeatedly arching its head, neck outstretched towards the sky as if belching because of bad indigestion. In fact I think it may be draining water from its pouch, swallowing fish or cooling down, perhaps all three.
Past the main current of the Churchill I head farther north and encounter a Bonaparte's gull.
On reaching a small island where I set up camp 4, a single pelican and gull set down together just offshore as soon as I land. Typically gulls follow pelicans with hopes of stealing a fish. I think both stop close to me with the hopes of picking up a fish handout; when I throw a stick into the water the pelican lunges at it to be disappointed that it is not food. Distance travelled is 19 km including the 170 metre portage.
The first evening I made a small fireplace against a rock face on shore for supper. The next day I carry stones inland near where I had erected the tent and Tarp to create a better sheltered fireplace. The only downside of the new location is the need to carry multiple loads of water with the bailer to extinguish the fire and to soak around the fireplace. As always I keep a full bailer near the fire at all times. Now north of the fire ban area it is wonderful to have fire for meals, warmth and to burn accumulated food package garbage.
My first pike for a scrumptious fish chowder meal.
The island has a large grassy area surrounded by beautiful tall spruce trees. Several of the photos show the haze of wildfire smoke which prompts me to don N95 mask several times. On all sides there are several other isles nearby.
A century ago a family built a cabin on the island and planted a garden. Chives and rhubarb still thrive.
Pretty wild pink wintergreen.
Top photo: white flowers of a stitchwort species, probably introduced intentionally or incidentally by the settlers.
Bottom photo: possible yellow avens gone to seed.
Thanks to Glen Lee for the identifications. https://www.saskwildflower.ca/
Wild fireweed. An unlimited supply across the island of fireweed greens to accompany meals.
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Summary:
Successful portage along the dry creek so I can move on across the Churchill River away from the fire ban area to welcome use of campfire. Amusing experiences with pelicans and gulls. Unlevel uncomfortable sleep first night at new camp. Give thanks for some rainfall, no complaining of rain allowed this season! Have first much needed bath in five days, an unusually long wait for me, really appreciated when temperature rises above 30°C. Wildfire smoke leads to wearing mask several times. Out of the fire ban area, happy to be able to catch and cook my first fish of the season. Camp 4 has a multitude of interesting plant growth, some established by the settlers here a century ago. Distance travelled 19 km including 170 metre portage.
June 23:
After resetting the alarm because it is darker than usual, I arise at 04:00. It remains dark presumably due to cloud cover. Last night it rained for an hour leaving the tent damp. A cold morning, I am away in good time finishing the 170 metre portage by 08:00. From my journal: "Pleased with myself for making such good time. Wet boots and damp socks. Hillocky grass clumps could cause a fall so the support of the spare paddle with heavy loads is welcome, especially when stepping down or up across the side channels." I paddle into the small lake to the south but do not find anything of interest that would make me stop over. There was a recent burn a few years ago and it does not seem worthwhile investigating further. Only wearing a light shirt, when I stop along shore for lunch the cool wind makes me don rain jacket. A pelican precedes me down the channel into Black Bear Island Lake paddling faster than I; it puts on an interesting performance repeatedly arching its head, neck outstretched towards the sky as if belching because of bad indigestion. In fact I think it may be draining water from its pouch, swallowing fish or cooling down, perhaps all three. Crossing the main current of the Churchill River, I paddle on, one stroke per second for a long stretch finally stopping for lunch at 13:00. Continuing on I see an occasional motorboat in the distance, probably from one of the two lodges on this large lake. Approaching one island finds four gulls on the rock shore; as I draw near a bald eagle flies away, then two more, one clad with the plain feathers of a juvenile. There is probably carrion of some sort on land but I do not stop to check. Farther on I stop at a long island where I have previously camped but the site is unusable, a myriad of trees blown down for hundreds of metres. As I paddle along shore two other areas also prove unsuitable. Moving on to the small isle farther north I stop to check that my previous campsite is suitable. It is tucked away in a clearing surrounded by very large spruce trees. After building a small fireplace against a low rock face at lake's edge I boil water to make macaroni and cheese which I eat while setting up camp. While making the fireplace a gull lands followed by a pelican, both swimming very close to me, likely habituated to people, probably waiting for fish leavings. I throw a fish-sized stick which the pelican lunges at then realizes what it is, looking quite disgruntled; I feel bad and apologize out loud. After finding no handouts, they depart. Canoe parked, gear stowed, barrels tied I am in bed by 21:00, weary and tired after facing a light but steady headwind while paddling all day. Distance travelled 19 km including 170 metre portage.
June 24:
Up at 05:30 sooner than expected because the bed was uncomfortable last night, not level enough, moving it at least twice to no avail. It would be good to relocate the tent but there is nothing better close by. This is certainly a scenic sheltered spot. The tent sits on a moss-covered bench below huge boulders surrounded by very large spruce. From a distance the area does look level but unfortunately the moss dips into spaces between stones once pressure applied. Back in the tent I switch the bed to the opposite side which seems much better; tonight will tell! Temperature is a cool 12°C, calm after a light two hour rain last night for which I give thanks. Before breakfast I erect the Tarp because it looks like more rain, very cloudy. After eating, next priority is to move all the stones from last night's supper fire, plus more, to create a better sheltered fireplace at camp. The only downside of the new location is the need to carry multiple loads of water with the bailer to extinguish the fire and to soak around the fireplace. As always I keep a full bailer near the fire at all times. Now north of the fire ban area it is wonderful to have fire for meals, warmth and to burn accumulated food package garbage. Cold meals are not nearly as satisfying. All morning there is the smell of wildfire smoke. After lunch it is a cool 17°C so I am not enthusiastic about a bath but can warm up by the fire. Luckily for both me and my hanging clothes the sun comes out while bathing. I have not had a bath since camp 2 on June 19, five days ago, an unusually long time for me but at least it has been cool. The much needed bath sure feels good. Midday I bake a bannock to restock my supply and have to put on rain jacket to finish tending it when rain starts. I have to rush to put away hanging sleep gear. Sitting under the Tarp to update journal and do some puzzles I listen to birds around me, crows cawing from the spruce, gulls screeching over the lake, a song sparrow's beautiful melody. There is visible wildfire smoke and stronger smell in the air. Before supper I go for a walk through the grassy areas; I see abundant prickly gooseberry bushes, even pricklier wild roses, fireweed (some of which I pick for supper), a few patches of rhubarb and chives in flower (planted by the settlers ages ago), the pretty flowers of pink wintergreen. There are big patches of two plants not identified until returning home: tiny white flowers of stitchwort, possible yellow avens gone to seed. From my journal: "Finally don N95 mask. What a difference, should have done earlier when the smell was more pronounced. Smoke not that thick but definite haze. Affects my breathing, choking me up. Marked improvement when wearing mask. Will do more often from now on!" Ironically I had to start inhaler medication just before leaving home, but it was due to some allergen other than smoke; I continue using it for the duration of my trip.
June 25:
Arising by 06:00, I had a good sleep thankfully. The bed still slopes downwards a bit, a folded tarp under one edge to level sideways. From my journal: "15°C, 08:20, breakfast half done. Just baked fresh bannock, the first warm piece always the best. Beautiful sunny day, no smoke smell ... yay! Crows calling, wren singing merrily, merganser quacking overhead, a few flies and bees buzzing past me, loon's plaintiff cry in the distance, a lone Canada goose honking. Life is good! Fire crackling. Slight breeze moving through trees. Many of the very tall very widely branched spruce are isolated enough from each other to be fully shaped all round, like gigantic Christmas trees; could be at least 100 years old. There are some scattered birch. Alders along shore. Field of tall grass and fireweed along with a variety of other plants, many flowering. Stair-step moss in shady places like where camp is and on which I sit." After lunch, now a hot 30°C, a bath sure feels good. At supper I am glad to eat the last of hard cheese, the replacement for fish meals while in the fire ban area. Hopefully I soon have fresh fish for supper. Before an early bedtime I prepack to move on tomorrow. The fire gets well extinguished, four bailers inside the fireplace, three outside; the bailer holds five litres. Cooled down to 22°C, now there is smoke haze at the west and south horizons.
June 26:
Up before the alarm at 03:45, I pack and take some gear to the Tarp. There is light rainfall, following a sprinkle of rain during the night. It starts to rain in earnest so I decide to stay another day. From my journal: "Return gear to tent and unpack. Give thanks for rain saying out loud 'Good rain. Keep it up. Thanks for letting me know before I leave. Much appreciated!'. Wait in tent for awhile until rain has tapered off." At breakfast outside everything is wet, sky looks foreboding for more rain. Assemble fishing rod and from shore catch my first fish of the season, a 24 inch pike. Mostly calm and humid, I sweat doing very little work. Coughing from smoke, I wear a mask for awhile. After lunch, 32°C, the wind of a thunderstorm that misses camp brings more smoke and mask is again needed. After a welcome bath, as I prepack again, mosquitoes and flies are bothersome so I erect the Bug Tent under the Tarp. Facing the lake, I see a heavy yellow-grey smoke cloud. Sweaty, I wear no clothes in the Bug Tent, just a mask! Before bed I get dressed to finish remaining prepacking outside to hopefully move on tomorrow.