Dense smoke 06:32 August 1 as I start to load the canoe at camp 17. Masking has become a normal requirement.
Heading down the small unnamed lake to the next portage. This lake has been landlocked since at least the past spring, perhaps even longer.
The lower landing of the long 900 metre portage. The shoreline is even drier than when traversed in June so unloading is easier than loading was then. The beaver lodge has been there for many years, though unused for some time. Smart beavers to build out in the bay where they still have access underwater to the lodge.
At least one bear has been active on the trail since I used it in the spring, leaving scat and tearing up many old logs in the search for ant larvae and pupae.
A bear has played silly beggars with an empty fuel barrel, rolling it directly into the portage trail, a road block. Abandoned fuel barrels litter the north, having been cached to service boats, snow machines, airplanes but left when empty.
On the next lake nearing camp 18, old camp 2. Distance travelled nine kilometres including the 900 metre portage. Hot temperatures above 30°C have me sweat soaked as I carry the loads, made worse by needing to wear a mask against the thick smoke. Can you spot the loon in the water (directly ahead of the canoe near the point of land)?
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Summary:
Continue to wear mask against the dense smoke, even at night in the tent. In addition to tearing up multiple logs a bear has played silly beggars moving a gas barrel onto the portage path. See the same ruffed grouse on the trail as in spring, this time with her young now hatched and flying. Sweat soaked and weary from portaging a long trail in over 30°C smoky dead calm weather leads to sleeping a record 10 hours. Uncannily quiet, hot smoky calm conditions preclude enjoyment for all animals ... except for damn buzzing flies. Bathe several times to cool off. Reflect on my experience with the climate conditions. Cloud occluded sun leads to my sweaty clothes not drying. Distance travelled to camp 18 (old camp 2) nine kilometres including 900 metre portage.
August 1:
As I arise at 04:30 it is darker than usual so I know the smoke is still bad. Thick smoke greets me and my mask as I exit the tent. Because it is only a short distance to the next portage I have breakfast before leaving. With even lower water levels now I can get closer to shore at the landing, not having to walk carefully along wet ground as in the spring. As I unload I carry gear the 900 metres to the other end of the trail. From my journal: "First carry there is a red gas barrel directly on the path that wasn't there last time. A bear has played silly beggars, setting up a road block. On my return I move it off the trail. On different trips I see a ruffed grouse family in the same place the mother was protecting her nest by luring me away in the spring, playing injured to entice the predator to follow. The youngsters are all flying now, little balls of feathers heading every which way, some landing in nearby trees. Another time there are two different garter snakes slithering across in front of me. A bear has torn up many old stumps and logs searching for ant larvae and pupae. There is nonrecent bear scat deposited later than my first passage. I spot some tempting looking red currants but don't stop to pick any. By the last trip, pulling the canoe, I am quite weary. Very hot, probably in the 30s°C. Sweat soaked, even my jeans down to midthigh. Made worse by calm conditions, no wind. Drink LifeStraw® water at upper end every trip. Lake is very shallow but I can walk out far enough on a mostly submerged log to dip more water." Canoe loaded I stop along the far shore for a much deserved rest and lunch. By 15:45 I reach the island location for camp 18 (old camp 2). From my journal: "My two loons welcome me back saying 'Where you been?' Hot and sweat soaked I say out loud 'Going to bathe before bedtime!' In the tent at 21:00 I check the temperature; it is 27°C so I'm quite sure was over 30°C today! Thank goodness for the LifeStraw®. Fall asleep quickly in undershorts and socks after ablutions. Wake at 22:00, don PJs but soon take them off, too hot. Sometime during the night put on PJs for keeps. Climb in fleece shell near morn. Wear mask most of the night." Distance travelled to camp 18 (old camp 2) nine kilometres including 900 metre portage.
August 2:
From my journal: "Sleep till 07:00, 10 hours! Way past my usual seven hours. Certainly highlights yesterday's high temperature and sweat soaked portage. Dead calm, no air movement. 22°C but feels much hotter. Very smoky, masking still. Darn flies dive bomb my face and head." After erecting the clothesline I hang the bedding and the damp towel from yesterday's bath. Setting up the Tarp shelter I make sure to face it away from the west to shade against afternoon sun. From my journal: "Uncanny how quiet it is. Hot smoky calm conditions preclude enjoyment for all animals. The only noise is damn buzzing flies ... buggers! Bug Tent day for sure. And multiple baths I think. As I wash I think about the gulls who have crapped on the rock shore and in the water where I bathe. I have had swimmer's itch before and its not pleasant. With this weather I might as well move on tomorrow. Had hoped for a few days here." After a bath I move to the Bug Tent under the Tarp shelter, no clothes on. By midafternoon it is a hot 31°C, almost calm, smoky. I thought about fishing this morning but it was a short thought. As I dip into the cold water up to my chin, a merganser mother and eight ducklings swim past, feeding as they go. Back in the Bug Tent I immediately feel I should have stayed in the water longer. Thank goodness for the Tarp's shade, it would be terrible without. Hearing thunder in the distance I voice my usual mantra 'Come on rain, come on rain, ...'. Sitting in the Bug Tent I update my journal and do quite a few puzzles. At suppertime it is still 31°C! Later in the tent for the night I am so hot and sweaty I just lay on the bed sheet and fall asleep as I attempt to cool off. Later I awake to do my usual bedtime ablutions.
From my journal: "Laying on the bed I reflect on conditions. Tonight and some previous I wear a mask in bed. Initially thinking the mask would be hard to keep in place, I have found not to be true, even when laying on my side. Thank goodness for the BREATHE Flat Fold N95 mask. So much smoke ... bad when you have to even wear it in bed! It has been so smoky at times, not only can I not see very far but in the morning it makes for prolonged darkness, sometimes no visible sun for two days at a time. I have set the alarm for 04:30 an hour later than usual. Another problem with no sunshine is my sweat does not dry, worse when sweat soaked after portaging. Nothing dries! Aie! Visibility is reduced often to less than half kilometre. Without awareness of where I am and the use of map and compass (and knowledge of how to use) I would be in trouble. Sometimes I am tempted to head in a certain direction cause 'I know best' but compass and map say no. Of course you have to absolutely know where you are when taking bearings from map and compass. So not the time to screw up!"