July 30 sunrise through dense smoke (05:32, 05:47, 06:05). In bed at midnight already tasting and smelling smoke I have worn mask all night and continue to do so all day today, the smoke remaining bad.
Heading upstream above the rapids by camp 16 island, no sign of reduced smoke on any horizon. Having hoped to continue moving east downstream I reluctantly decide to head back towards my vehicle. The curtailed planned trip north was to have ultimately gone down to the Churchill River then through Nemeiben Lake across multiple portages and other water bodies to return to Besnard Lake by a different way than that used at the start of the trip. After retreating from the original north route my revised plan had been to paddle down the Churchill to portage to Nemeiben, sadly now not a good option. It does not make sense to move towards active fire.
Breakfast stop on an island in Black Bear Island Lake.
After paddling west against a stiff headwind across Black Bear Island Lake I head south up the channel towards the small lake passed through on June 23 near the start of my season.
Meeting a tree skeleton standing sentinel along the way, I remark out loud 'The Witch'! (From: CS Lewis, 1950, The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, 1950, CS Lewis.)
Paddling through wild rice standing above the water.
Approaching the dry creek that must be portaged. Good to see an active beaver lodge, a winter supply of fresh cuttings piling up. This season I have seen many lodges standing dry because of the low water levels, beavers no longer able to use high and dry lodges.
The lower end of the 190 metre portage (now 20 metres longer than first used in June).
The grass has grown as tall as I. I could have taken an easier route in the spring but am thankful to have gone this way as my track is still obvious and easy to follow.
The upper end of the portage, 20 metres farther out to reach enough water to float the canoe.
Camp 17 (old camp 3). The spruce branches are to provide a clean mat to sit and work on, necessary to cover numerous fresh otter scats covering the bare rock beside the fireplace.
A beautiful weasel peeking out of the fireplace rocks. While sitting in my chair beside the fireplace I catch its motion out of the corner of my eye. Some kissing sounds make it pop out to pose for a photo. It runs away but comes back again to further check me out. The weasel has sleek brown fur with a black tail tip and white chest. Except for the tip of the tail it will turn completely white this winter. I am probably sitting on its usual travel route.
July 31, dense smoke as bad as ever continuing to make mask use necessary.
**********************
Summary:
Dense smoke, wearing mask in bed since midnight. Any thought of moving closer towards the fire to the east is gone. Fire and smoke again force me to retreat. Returning to Besnard Lake by a different way than that used at the start of the trip sadly now not a good option. Dry creek flowing from the unnamed lake where I stayed at camp 3 in June is even drier now; the grass that I walked through then is quite tall now, as tall or taller than I. While sitting beside the fireplace I catch some motion out of the corner of my eye; a beautiful weasel peeks out of the fireplace rocks, some kissing sounds make it pop out to pose for a photo. Likely cutting my trip short by at least one month, lots of food on hand, I no longer have to fish for meals. Wish for a good wind to blow smoke away, but lately no matter the wind direction it just brings more smoke. Distance travelled to camp 17 (old camp 3) is 14 kilometres including 190 metre portage (20 metres longer than in spring).
July 30:
When arising at 04:00 it is darker than usual, not surprising because of dense smoke. I have been wearing a mask in the tent since midnight, sleeping mostly on my back but the mask seemed to stay in place when on my side too. From my journal: "Very smoky. POI ... any thought of moving closer towards the source to the east is gone. Shame as I hoped for good fishing at Birch Rapids and the chance to return a different route to Besnard Lake via Nemeiben Lake. Steven and I did it many years ago." The curtailed planned trip north was to have ultimately gone down to the Churchill River then through Nemeiben Lake across multiple portages and other water bodies to return to Besnard Lake by a different way than that used at the start of the season. After retreating from the original north route my revised strategy had been to paddle down the Churchill to portage to Nemeiben, sadly now not a good option. It does not make sense to move towards active fire. The distance to Birch Rapids is 18 kilometres but for all I know that island and the one beside it could have both been burned this year. Perhaps that is where the rising smoke to the east originates. Both have decent campsites; if burned I would have to search for another site farther downstream.
Fully loaded I paddle up the right side of the immediate rapids beside camp with no problem. Heading upstream above the rapids there is no sign of reduced smoke on any horizon. Facing a brisk west headwind makes for harder paddling. Sadly the wind is not chasing away smoke, perhaps even bringing more which seems to be the case no matter from which direction. I stop at an island in Black Bear Island Lake for breakfast. Making steady but slow progress against the wind I pause for lunch at an island in the mouth of the channel exiting from lakes below old camp 3, my target destination today. Heading up the waterway, even though not close to shore, I raise and wave my paddle to the small Cree cabin on the mainland; I have met the owners previously, related to Ronnie who I chatted with a few days ago.
When I reach the dry creek flowing from the unnamed lake where I stayed at camp 3 in June it is even drier now. The grass that I walked through then is quite tall now, as tall or taller than I. From my journal: "Glad I came this way in the spring because my track is still readily visible. A moose has trod along the creek bed while foraging on the greens. I note that it chose not to use my trail! The 170 metre portage becomes 190 as I have to extend it at the upper end because the water level is even lower than before. The path is in better shape because it is drier now. Rain starts on my first carry so I spread out the large Tarp over the packs set on the reeds. On second carry it rains and hails making me a bit wet. A loud clap of thunder directly overhead makes me duck and yell, a very big bang! As I empty the canoe I continue to carry loads, the first three requiring cover under the Tarp. Having consumed more of the contents, the barrels now are lighter and easier to hoist. The canoe dragged last floats on water plants as much as on the quite shallow water so am concerned it isn't up the lake shore far enough. More rain continues to dampen my clothes as I push out, happy to see canoe floats okay." Fire started to boil water while setting up tent and Tarp shelter I am surprised to be not much bothered by bugs. Chores done I eat supper of macaroni and cheese before retiring to bed by 21:30. Ablutions done, I fall asleep in just undershorts and socks, not in pajamas and fleece shell until much later. Distance travelled to camp 17 (old camp 3) is 14 kilometres including 190 metre portage (20 metres longer than in spring).
July 31:
Smoke today is as bad as yesterday forcing mask use, not being able to see very far through the haze. Two loons near camp greet me as they did in the spring. Flies are bothersome buzzing at my head. I cut spruce boughs to serve as a mat to cover fresh otter scat on the otherwise bare rock near the fireplace. From my journal: "While sitting in my chair beside the fireplace I catch some motion out of the corner of my eye. A beautiful weasel peeks out of the fireplace rocks. Some kissing sounds make it pop out to pose for a photo. It runs away but comes back again to further check me out. The weasel has sleek brown fur with a black tail tip and white chest. It will turn completely white in the winter except for the black tipped tail. I am probably on its usual travel route." By midafternoon, a hot 30°C, no clothes on after a welcome bath I retreat to the Bug Tent under shade of the Tarp shelter to escape the pesky bugs. Only a light breeze, I wish for a good wind to blow smoke away, but lately no matter the wind direction it just brings more smoke. I keep falling asleep while updating journal and doing puzzles. Having initially planned to stay another day I prepack to move on tomorrow as I would rather camp on the next much bigger lake. Realizing I am likely cutting my trip short by at least one month, lots of food on hand, I no longer have to fish for meals.