Sunrise through dense smoke and dark clouds July 23 (04:56 - 06:05).
Masked, on my way back down the Churchill River.
Breakfast stop. When I take mask off to eat can definitely notice how bad the smoke by its affect on breathing.
10:03 - 10:45 smoke lessening but still need mask.
12:24 smoke cleared except at horizons where it is still four fingers high. Otherwise white cumulus in bright blue sky as I approach the island where camp 14 will be established. Finally I can go mask free.
Gear unloaded, canoe parked, tent and Tarp shelter set up.
Smoke starts to settle in again in the evening.
A pair of common loons keep an eye on me during my three day stay.
July 24 early morning smoke returns with a vengeance as I canoe the one kilometre to Silent Rapids to fish.
I paddle downstream close to shore on the opposite side of where I went up Silent Rapids on July 19. Canoe is docked on a small rock island where the main river flows fast on one side and through a small channel next to shore on the other side.
Looking down Silent Rapids from the island. The far shore where I came upstream a few days ago can be seen across the rapids. I catch fish by casting along the line of fast water in the main channel meeting still below and behind the rock island. As usual the 'sweet spot' is the demarcation between really fast and slower water.
The view back upstream above Silent Rapids.
Returning to camp, my island is shrouded in smoke.
Saved in part by my mask, lucky not to have had an eye injury, I have a cut at the side of my eyebrow where a hook hit. While retrieving a pike the fish escaped and the lure flew forcefully back, the hook embedding through the mask but thankfully not in my skin. I use barbless hooks but it was still difficult to remove the hook from the mask.
July 25 sunrise through smoky sky at 05:48.
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Summary:
Having first planned to camp at or near old camp 11 below Silent Rapids I discover a pretty location on an island one kilometre above the rapids. Finally a reasonably level tent site. Continue wearing mask. Catch two nice walleye at the rapids. Accident with fish hook gouging my eyebrow and getting stuck in mask which helps protect me from more serious injury. Much appreciated rainfall during the night. Lucky to catch a pike off shore at camp I do not need to take canoe out again. Camp 14 is on an island about one kilometre above Silent Rapids reached after travelling 13 kilometres plus one extra for a total of 14. The extra is when I go past the island and while eating lunch debate whether to continue downstream but the island wins so I have to paddle back.
July 23:
Awakening to my 04:00 alarm I wear two shirts in the cool 10°C morning, almost dead calm. Oppressively smoky I wear a mask until early afternoon. Visibility is quite poor, not able to see any distance. After breakfast I meet a group of four motorboats fishing. A fifth boat speeds towards me in the narrow channel, not slowing down at all, probably in a hurry to catch up to the others. Passing quite close it is throwing up quite a wake. I see one of the passengers turn to yell at the driver in the rear to slow down ... too late. Motorboats generate strong waves followed by big swells. Muttering about inconsiderate drivers I have to be careful to turn the canoe to quarter the waves. The driver seemed to be quite young so give him the benefit of the doubt, chalking it up to lack of experience, but I hope his ears are burning. Continuing on I stop at an island about one kilometre above Silent Rapids. Landing to investigate it appears to be a good campsite well used with multiple tent spots. Unfortunately there is some garbage and two holes made by disposing hot cooking oil, even worse because they are into the roots at the base of two nice big pine trees near shore so will eventually kill the trees. Aie! Garbage I can pick up and burn later but there is nothing to be done about the holes. The island is treed with spruce and pine, a beautiful location. With some repair the fireplace can be used as is; even though higher than necessary relative to the ground there are enough old coals inside to minimize the amount of firewood used (and to insulate any roots against fire). However I had planned to continue farther so paddle to the small point closer to Silent Rapids to have lunch; this is where I had breakfast on July 19 after ascending Silent Rapids. From my journal: "Had intended to camp below the rapids where I stayed coming upstream. Either at the same site with good walleye fishing ... or across the river at the mountainous green isle. Don't like the exposure at the first location where the wind really proved how exposed it is. Don't like how would have to climb to a campsite on the island, plus establish a campsite from scratch. During lunch have a debate ... camp at one of those spots? ... or paddle back up to the 'new' island? Ultimately the latter wins, a beautiful looking site reasonably well protected amongst spruce and pine. Haven't had many such sites. Will see what fishing is like. Unlikely to be walleye. Could try paddling to the shoals midstream or even down to Silent Rapids. So end up paddling an extra 1/2 x 2 km after finally making up my mind where to camp." Landing back at the island I activate the SPOT™ at 12:45. Now it is a nice day, sun shining, lots of blue sky, albeit with the threat of smoke at the horizons. Now I can take the mask off. I set up the tent and then lay out sleep gear inside to air and dry. There are no bugs, two loons and several pelicans nearby, a gray jay greets me at camp; life is good! I start a fire to get the three pots on to boil water. There is no birch bark visible near camp so I am glad that I brought a birch bark cylinder full of birch bark from the breakfast stop. Lastly I erect the clothesline to hang clothes while having a bath just before supper. Camp 14 is on an island about one kilometre above Silent Rapids reached after travelling 13 kilometres plus one extra for a total of 14. The extra is when I go past the island and while eating lunch debate whether to continue downstream but the island wins so I have to paddle back.
July 24:
A cool 12°C on arising at 05:30. I slept well, finally a flat enough bed, although I did use the folded small tarp and two clothes bags to better level one side. I try casting for fish off shore then take canoe out to the shoals in the centre of the river, also with no luck. Pelicans like it here so there is obviously food for them. From my journal: "Realize I forgot to bring Food Pack and Kitchen Barrel. Back to camp to get them. Start paddling to try at Silent Rapids. Now I realize forgot fishing rod laying on shore while I loaded the gear. Aie! Not a good start! Almost lunchtime so eat breakfast before leaving again. Smoke is perhaps the worst so far, though maybe I've said that previously. Temperature has only increased to 17°C because of the smoke cover. While eating can tell the smoke effect with mask off. Can't see very far. Feel the smoke stinging my eyes for which no protection. Thank goodness for the HYLO® GEL eyedrops." Finally I paddle to the rapids on the west side along shore where the current is not very strong until almost directly at their outlet. Half way down the shore I tie up to have a look. Still a long way to walk to the outlet I can see that the current is slow all along shore before jutting out past big rock. Paddling on down I only now realize there is an opening on the extreme west side with water running through so this is a rock island not a peninsula as originally thought. The flow there is so shallow there it would not have enough depth to allow pulling the loaded canoe going upstream. This is low water level so I do not know what it would usually be like. Casting along the line of fast water in the main channel meeting still water below and behind the rock island I catch a nice 18" walleye right away. Then I catch and release several small to medium sized pike. I also try casting directly below and also above the island releasing more pike. From my journal: "Have a close call! Pulling one pike in to release, it frees itself. Hook comes flying at me hitting my mask and boinking me hard near my eye. A bit of a chore getting the hook out of the mask. Good thing I use barbless hooks (clinching the barbs with pliers beforehand). Haven't checked my face but I took a hard hit that really hurt for a while. (Later I use mirror to see I have a half inch long gash along right eyebrow sealed with dry blood.) My fault; I should have landed the fish without lifting the line so high and then released it. A preventable accident like most! Aie! I give thanks just a minor wound." Changing lures I land another walleye. The 'sweet spot' is the demarcation between really fast and slower water. After filleting the fish I return to camp. Smoke is thicker than ever, not able to see even 500 metres. It does not seem to matter which direction the wind blows it brings smoke; the wind may clear the smoke for awhile but then carries more, a win-lose each time. After lunch the south wind is bringing more smoke. I wear the mask all day again. From my journal: "After a delicious meal of fried walleye as I retire to the tent I say out loud 'Sure hope it rains!'. Becoming a common refrain. A Cree motorboat heads upstream, a bit late for travel; there is a settlement at the Foster River outlet, referred to locally as Fish River, I think now just occupied in the summer, though there are some other cabins in the area. A few drops of rain hit the tent roof as I prepare for bed. Later it pours rains for about three hours. Nice! Very thankful!"
July 25:
Up at 05:15, very smoky, wearing a mask right away. Hoping not to have to use the canoe I try casting from shore beside camp. The little bay has water plants that often harbour pike. The entire time I have quite small pike chasing and bumping the lure. Just as I am resigned to get the canoe I see a fish rise so cast in that spot. A 25" pike takes the lure, yay! I give thanks for giving me a nice fish for supper and celebrate with fresh bannock for breakfast. Four loons have a get together with song, splashing as they dance up out of the water and across the surface, fun to watch, making me chuckle. The smoke with a light west breeze keeps the temperature cooler at 22°C. At noon there is light rainfall for ten minutes. After lunch I have a welcome bath luckily before the wind picks up. Even though smoke has cleared somewhat it is still necessary to wear mask. Supper is eaten while my two loons observe nearby, two gray jays flit through camp at least three times, terns skim across the river surface looking for fish. The smoke at horizons cuts a distinctive line through the clouds behind them. Darn flies annoyingly fly into my face while I am updating journal and doing some puzzles. Prepacking done I extinguish the fireplace and head for bed.