Blackflies are bothersome at breakfast on leaving camp 12 on July 3, so I start a fire even though eating a cold meal.
Proceeding up the river, the sky is very cloudy and grey but hopefully I can get to camp before it rains.
In addition to these two pelicans, I pass several groups of ducklings, a beaver and a pileated woodpecker tapping on a large dead spruce tree, and hear the cheerful whistling songs of two white-throated sparrows.
At the first rapids, at the camp 9 fireplace, even though I am not stopping for a meal, I build a small fire because the blackflies are so bothersome while portaging. This is the infamous rapids where I swamped the canoe.
About 500 metres below the next rapids at the deep river gorge, I am canoeing quite close to the shore. All of a sudden I notice a large black bear right at river's edge drinking water. I am close enough, as he lifts his head, that I can see the water dripping from his snout. Awesome! I shoot the movie as I move even closer. Note in the video he is not scared at all, sitting down at one point to scratch his rear end and side. Awesome! The shot does not adequately represent his size, undoubtedly a large male. As he heads into the bush I tell him that I plan to camp just ahead on the portage and to stay away for the next couple of days as I do not want any trouble, either for me or for him.
At the bottom of the hill.
At the hilltop.
I had thought to camp at the lower end of the rapids but the tall birches shade the whole area and it is way too dark and gloomy. Unloading the canoe, I portage the regular six loads 70 metres to the base of the steep hill, which I sure am not looking forward to carry up. Then it takes nine loads to get everything up the 70 metre hill. Just as when doing any task, I try to do the hardest first, taking the heaviest loads first. It is necessary to be careful to wedge a foot against birch trees as I carry up and use my left hand to grasp trees to help me along. I carry the canoe overhead about half way, then slide it up the steepest part, tying the uphill rope painter to a birch tree to prevent the canoe from sliding down. Pulling the canoe up farther, I tie off the rope again. One more pull, and it is up to the top where I slide it farther along to a place I am able to hoist it overhead to finish the portage. Regular carries (one pack on top of another) take tent gear to the "best" spot about 70 metres from the shore at the upper end of the rapids, at the top of the slope. The remaining gear goes to the shore.
By 12:30 pm, gear is stashed under the canoe, or covered with a tarp. It sure looks like rain. I have travelled five km including two portages (170, 470 metres, the latter with extra portage loads because of the steep hill).
Because the blackflies are bothersome, made worse because I am sweaty, I build a fire near shore. Time for a quick well-deserved lunch. (I did place stones around this fireplace, but moved them later when this spot became too exposed with a change in wind direction.)
With gear at shore under cover, I walk up to the tent site. I want to get the tarp-covered gear here inside before it rains if possible. It takes about one hour to clear a spot big enough for the tent. Because it is right on the portage trail, I also have to cut a new trail to bypass the tent. Although unlikely, I do not want to risk someone coming along needing to portage. There are dozens of small and medium-size trees to remove and to toss down the hillside overlooking the river gorge. The hardest task is to cut out a 25 cm diameter dry log that stretches across the tent site. I have to saw it through twice because the log is so heavy. Visiting the "blackfly" fire several times to keep it stocked with firewood, I refill my LifeStraw® bottle with water. This is sweaty work and I have learned to try to drink lots to minimize the risk of leg cramps or getting sick.
Initially I am not confident that there is adequate space to erect the large tarp shelter near shore, but after cutting out some trees and branches I manage to get the tarp up. It has not rained yet and all gear is under cover.
The second day I move the fireplace farther inland as it is too exposed on the grassy flat near shore and the inbound wind blows unpleasant smoke into camp. The new fireplace is directly on the portage between two boulders, but can be easily stepped around.
If possible I place the double-walled stainless steel container, storing used shortening to fry fish, in shallow water to cool and harden faster. The second day I try fishing above, below and along the rapids for a few hours and only catch one walleye and one pike, releasing several very small pike. I had hoped to stay here for a few days thinking the fishing would be good for walleye, but no such luck. Time to move on tomorrow.
Near camp is wolf scat from last winter, containing lots of prey hair. I am always amazed at how wolves can hunt in bush that is so thick. They are a superb predator.
At the lower end of the rapids, I walk upstream as far as possible to try fishing with no luck. There is a big patch of tall stinging nettle, which is good to eat if steamed to render the stinging hairs harmless. I am harvesting lots of salad greens and berries that do not need any such preparation.