Camp 13 at 4:45 am, beautiful clear morning with mist on the lake in the river valley as I am breaking camp, having arisen before 3:30 am.
It is always best if possible to position the canoe parallel to shore, tying both painters to a secure point on shore, even if just a branch and a small shrub like here. Loading and covering the canoe then is much easier and safer than having to balance and walk all the gear from stern to bow.
Two rubber ropes secure the lighter top gear at the bow.
Then I start covering the load with the large shelter tarp, fastening it in place with four bungee cords. This process is definitely much easier if the canoe is secured at both ends along shore.
Unless travelling a short distance, no matter how nice the weather appears, I cover the load to protect against rain and splash from waves and paddle. Even though most packs are lined with waterproof bags, it is nice to keep their outsides dry. The tarp also shields the load from the hot sun, especially important for food items.
Temperature is 15℃. A warming fire and hot water to drink feel good.
Lastly the Rubber Pack is placed on the load and secured with two more bungee cords. This waterproof pack contains all the gear required during the day such as my lunch. Note my wet towel from last evening's bath is draped over the load to dry. The tarp provides a levelish spot to place the map, although I usually place it on the hull of the canoe between my legs, oriented to direction of travel with compass.
Most of the journey is against a light to moderate headwind, making for a hard paddle in two longer open stretches. Stopping for a rest after one such battle, I stop at a Cree "cabin" (made with modern materials) where the owner Jesse is working on the construction. Thanks to Jesse for giving me a present of some store bought food, much appreciated!
Canoeing 18 km to the head of the large lake, I portage the short 10 metres over the rock face beside the waterfall (camp 8 photo). I explore the area beside the waterfall to search for a campsite within walking distance so that I can fish for walleye in the rapids below the falls. Ranging over the area I despair of finding a good spot. The ground cover is thick with prickly juniper brush and tall blueberry plants interspersed with small to medium birch trees and some alder. Finally I do discover a level tent site which I flag with orange tape to make it easy to spot after I reload the canoe and paddle 100 metres to set up camp. It is a big job to pull out all the blueberry plants, fell a few trees and prune overhanging branches, but it then proves to be the most comfortable level bed the entire trip. I have tried sleeping at a site on top of blueberry or Labrador tea brush, but it is quite uncomfortable. The blackflies are very bothersome as I am quite sweaty so I build a fireplace to start a small fire to shoo them away. Unfortunately smoke does not repel the horseflies which bite right through my shirt. The temperature reaches a hot 31℃ during the three days at this site. The bug tent is a welcome place to get away from the bugs, eat meals and cool off with no clothes on after a glorious bath. I situate the bug tent in the shade after pulling more blueberry plants. If it rains I will have to move it under the tarp shelter, but will need to pull even more blueberry bushes.
These "pillowy" clouds look ominous on the evening of the second day and foretell an awesome three hour thunder, lightning and heavy rainstorm at 9 pm. Thank goodness for a watertight tent. This is the longest nonstop storm I think I have every experienced, but not the loudest and closest lightning thank goodness. Sleep did not come until the storm ended at midnight. On the third day I am in bed by 7:30 pm, the earliest in a long time, because of another similar thunderstorm which only lasted for one hour.
Walleye for each supper. At first I only catch and release small pike when fishing from shore into the slack water beside the rapids below the falls. Once I find the "sweet" spot, it is easy to catch walleye in quick succession. I have to cast across and into the rapids directly below the falls and reel the lure up the rapids.
Suppers include fresh salad of fireweed and red currants.
Sitting in one of the few areas free of juniper bushes one evening when the bugs are being blown away by the strong wind. I am next to the fireplace near the edge of the almost vertical rock face overlooking the lake three metres below. To fetch water I have to be very careful not to slide into the water. The gun is kept handy because there is bear sign nearby and this would be a crossing over the falls. As with many good campsites, I am in a spot where bears may frequent. We both have excellent taste in location.