June 30 at 10:55 a.m., on my way from camp 11 to set up camp near the rapids at the upper end of the lake. Even though it is only three km, it is a tough paddle because of a strong side wind pushing me towards shore. There are light rain showers too. At camp 12 I unload and cover all but the two heavy barrels which I take to the next portage landing from where I will pre-portage them later. With the wind buffeting me badly, paddling madly, I have a difficult time getting back the 500 metres to camp with the empty canoe, getting swept right against shore a few times. Luckily the wind only blows me once towards mid-channel.
As I am erecting the nylon tent, dark grey clouds quickly move in bringing showers. I put up the tarp shelter in the rain. Passing storm clouds bring in heavy rainfall several times during the day. When I finish laying out sleep gear, I take off my left boot to dress my left big toe. From my journal: "I earlier had put moleskin around left big toe and the next toe. Now I duct tape these two toes together, not tight. Doesn't seem to have helped. Well Dr Barry ... what next?"
As I am erecting the nylon tent, dark grey clouds quickly move in bringing showers. I put up the tarp shelter in the rain. Passing storm clouds bring in heavy rainfall several times during the day. When I finish laying out sleep gear, I take off my left boot to dress my left big toe. From my journal: "I earlier had put moleskin around left big toe and the next toe. Now I duct tape these two toes together, not tight. Doesn't seem to have helped. Well Dr Barry ... what next?"
A cow moose between 1:09 and 1:17 p.m. as I watch from Camp 12. The bay beside camp is quite shallow all the way to where the river exits the lake one km down stream. The lake is kind of just an extension of the river. The shallow depth is illustrated when the cow moose walks from one shore to the opposite, the water barely reaching her belly. While I am stowing the canoe after coming back from delivering the barrels, I look up to first see the moose about 200 metres away, having already walked half way across the channel. She keeps looking my way trying to figure out this apparition. The wind is strong and I am downwind so she cannot smell me. I can see her try to detect my scent by circling with her head outstretched several times. She keeps bobbing her head under water, eating water plants. I bang my hand on the canoe and wave both arms wildly to make her move along to no avail. She would be in trouble if I were hunting for moose. We watch each other for ten minutes before I leave to do chores when I finally hear her splash onto shore. Awesome sight.
4:30 p.m. in camp 12. With the strong wind blowing right through camp, there are no bugs. The site is on an open plateau about 30 metres in diameter, three metres above the lake, up a steep bank all around. There is lots of firewood although much of the down wood is damp and punky inside. The trees are mostly jack pine with some spruce, and along shore, alder, willow, Labrador tea and sweet gale stretching into the muskeg up the lake towards the portage. Inland behind camp is a very steep esker covered with pine trees. There is no birchbark available. The downstream side of the plateau is on a point facing down the lake.
Supper at 5:10 p.m., refried pike (in orzo with nutritional yeast, chicken soup base, butter, Parmesan cheese) plus a fresh salad (willow leaves, spruce tips, white Labrador tea flowers, pink bearberry flowers) and hot water to drink. To bed early by 7 p.m.
The view across the lake from Camp 12.
July 1, Canada Day, 13℃, strong wind, very cloudy, threatening rain. Up at 4 a.m., I pack and leave to explore and cut a second portage if required. While canoeing to the landing, it starts to rain. As I carry canoe and some gear to upper end of portage, it continues to rain. Fifty metres from the river, just before the trail gets bouldery, I set up the medium-size tarp, wearing my raincoat as the rain is coming down hard. In order to start a fire I saw a 15 cm block from a 10 cm diameter dry pole to split for kindling and use a Vaseline® cotton ball as tinder, no birch bark to be found. Once the flames are going well, some blowing to make sure, I fell several spruce trees to cover the wet ground under the tarp with boughs. A big fire sure feels good while I rest on the branches to eat breakfast (a mint, hot water, protein bar, granola bar, seeds, peanut butter).
The rain lets up and I get onto the river above the first rapids. Reaching a second set of rapids, there is quite a loud steep waterfall. On one side of the river, there is water running from the main rapids of the falls in two places, one channel just below the falls, and one farther downstream.
Checking where to best land, I pick the place all canoeists tend to, as close to the falls as possible, landing just a few metres down from the upper channel. Before I can get inland, I have to cut out thick alder, willow, spruce and birch. Pulling the canoe up half way on shore, I unload the two packs, the rubber pack and canoe pack (containing tool kit, gun, fishing kit, barrel harness). In addition there is loose gear (medium-sized tarp, PFD, sponge and two paddles).
Next I cut a trail up to the bare rock about three metres vertical above the river, with a "switchback" path to the top. Initially I try exploring for a trail through the soaking wet brush and trees. Inland I do see many big boulders and a steep slope. Like the first portage, if there used to be a trail here I cannot find any evidence. Because I am quite sure I will have to cut a trail, and because it is wet and raining intermittently, I set up the tarp on the somewhat flat rock "on top" of the switchback. There is barely enough room for the tarp. To start a fire I again have to split kindling and use a Vaseline® cotton ball. It takes one false start where I prematurely assume the flames are going good enough, then the second attempt with lots of blowing to establish fire. I cut spruce branches for a mat under the tarp from the trees felled already plus more from what I think will be the continuation of the portage trail. The bush is really thick but I explore in two spots with some cutting of more spruce trees for the tarp. Close to shore there are too many big boulders, farther inland from shore it is too steep plus lots of big boulders. Then lunch (a mint, hot water, ¼ cinnamon bannock, almonds, cheese, protein bar, granola bar).
After lunch, I start cutting a provisional trail to let me through the dense bush, with one false lead. Finally I make it to the head of the rapids at the side of the falls, where there is a small channel which should let me get above the fast current. Success!
Now I start cutting in reverse to remove more trees to allow the canoe and loads through. There are two spots where several larger trees have to be felled so I decide to walk back to check the fire. I will check the time then. If it is too late I will have to come back to finish tomorrow. But surprise ... it is only one p.m., so I go back with renewed vigour to widen the trail in the two areas. There are three steep rock places. This is a harder trail to cut at 135 metres than the previous one of 235 metres, and it takes longer, four hours. I am glad it is done and do not have to come back to finish. It continues to rain intermittently, as it has all day. This portage does not need any blazed trees, there is no way of making a wrong turn on the thickly treed trail.
Heading back to camp, I want to catch a fish. This river looks like it should be good for walleye but I only caught pike below the first rapids and it took some persistence to get that one. I try fishing in the rapids below the falls with no luck. Sweat-soaked, not wearing rain gear which would have made me even damper while working, it starts to rain again so I decide to return to camp. Although I carried three loads on the way in, I manage to do it in two for the return trip on the first trail. The two heavy barrels are still at the landing, no time to pre-portage them farther today. While canoeing the final distance to camp it rains again.
From my journal: "Unload under nice big tarp shelter with nice dry boughs. Have to split kindling again for the third time today." I did not find any birch bark today, but manage to light dry dead spruce branches from the protected base of some nearby trees, although it does take a prolonged lighter flame. With split kindling plus the mostly dry lower dead pine branches from several trees I get a fire going for bigger damp wood. At 5:30 p.m., sitting close to the fire for warmth and to dry out a bit, I eat supper (a mint, macaroni and cheese, hot water). My two sweat- and rain-damp shirts hang near the fire. From my journal: "6:15 p.m. Getting cold now as fire dies and sun behind trees at top of steep esker. Time put other shirts on, do teeth, dishes, collect firewood, split more kindling and then bed. Weary. Been a long day but very fruitful. Cool in tent and damp."
Heading back to camp, I want to catch a fish. This river looks like it should be good for walleye but I only caught pike below the first rapids and it took some persistence to get that one. I try fishing in the rapids below the falls with no luck. Sweat-soaked, not wearing rain gear which would have made me even damper while working, it starts to rain again so I decide to return to camp. Although I carried three loads on the way in, I manage to do it in two for the return trip on the first trail. The two heavy barrels are still at the landing, no time to pre-portage them farther today. While canoeing the final distance to camp it rains again.
From my journal: "Unload under nice big tarp shelter with nice dry boughs. Have to split kindling again for the third time today." I did not find any birch bark today, but manage to light dry dead spruce branches from the protected base of some nearby trees, although it does take a prolonged lighter flame. With split kindling plus the mostly dry lower dead pine branches from several trees I get a fire going for bigger damp wood. At 5:30 p.m., sitting close to the fire for warmth and to dry out a bit, I eat supper (a mint, macaroni and cheese, hot water). My two sweat- and rain-damp shirts hang near the fire. From my journal: "6:15 p.m. Getting cold now as fire dies and sun behind trees at top of steep esker. Time put other shirts on, do teeth, dishes, collect firewood, split more kindling and then bed. Weary. Been a long day but very fruitful. Cool in tent and damp."
July 2, 7℃, steady rain sometimes heavy, strong wind. Awake at 3 a.m., up at 3:30 a.m. when it starts to rain. From my journal: "After I awake I think 'oh, no ... rain'. Pee and then get back in bag and ponder what to do ... although I already know, but good to plan out things you are going to do and what order. OK, enough of this wet, dampness, with sleep gear not drying out."
Getting dressed, I don raincoat to put up canvas Tent and stove. Double-checking that the best Tent site is just behind the nylon tent, I clear the spot. Twice I take shelter under the tarp when rain comes down really heavily. To make way for the nylon tent I had felled some pines that will serve as poles for the canvas Tent. Once the Tent is up and covered with its tarp, time to get stove started. Thank goodness for the dry wood and kindling placed under the tarp shelter last evening. I bring gravel from the firepit to place under and in the stove. I saw more stovewood under the tarp, then carry all gear from nylon tent. Finally, I can take clothes off and hang to dry and then dress in "sweats". Then breakfast (a mint, ½ hot cinnamon bannock, seeds, peanut butter, hot water), finished at 10:55 a.m.. Aah ... feels so much better ... warm, dry, full ... and clothes and sleep gear drying.
Early afternoon, I decide to pre-portage the two barrels to the top of the falls across the two portages, using the empty kitchen barrel from which to hoist them. This of course means I also have to portage the canoe, the kitchen barrel, the two rope painters and the paddles across the first portage. I get rained on several times on the portages. My left big toe takes a while to get used to walking, perhaps the tape is helpful. I struggle a bit to not limp. Oddly, it even seems that the heavy pack weight helps. On the way back to camp I stop below the first rapids to catch a 20" (50 cm) pike for supper. Fishing is not quick and easy here and I only catch the one fish, with only one other bite before that, possibly even the same fish. It rains several times as dark clouds roll through, but now I am wearing my rain jacket. A neat thing happens while cleaning the fish, a warbler darts out of the bush beside me to catch a flying moth. It is always amazing to catch a glimpse of such a small yellow-marked bird which typically goes unnoticed when amongst leaves. The warm Tent is very welcome when I get back to camp, quite chilled. I bring the fishing rod/reel into the Tent to dry. For supper at 6:15 p.m., I eat my lunch cheese and almonds first, next fish chowder (boiled diced pike, potato flakes, nutritional yeast, chicken soup base, butter, Parmesan cheese), then the lunch ¼ cinnamon bannock, a three course meal. Before bedtime, while a mosquito coil burns, I saw stovewood under the tarp shelter while it rains again multiple times.
In total on three trips to cut trails and to pre-portage, I have travelled nine extra km.
Early afternoon, I decide to pre-portage the two barrels to the top of the falls across the two portages, using the empty kitchen barrel from which to hoist them. This of course means I also have to portage the canoe, the kitchen barrel, the two rope painters and the paddles across the first portage. I get rained on several times on the portages. My left big toe takes a while to get used to walking, perhaps the tape is helpful. I struggle a bit to not limp. Oddly, it even seems that the heavy pack weight helps. On the way back to camp I stop below the first rapids to catch a 20" (50 cm) pike for supper. Fishing is not quick and easy here and I only catch the one fish, with only one other bite before that, possibly even the same fish. It rains several times as dark clouds roll through, but now I am wearing my rain jacket. A neat thing happens while cleaning the fish, a warbler darts out of the bush beside me to catch a flying moth. It is always amazing to catch a glimpse of such a small yellow-marked bird which typically goes unnoticed when amongst leaves. The warm Tent is very welcome when I get back to camp, quite chilled. I bring the fishing rod/reel into the Tent to dry. For supper at 6:15 p.m., I eat my lunch cheese and almonds first, next fish chowder (boiled diced pike, potato flakes, nutritional yeast, chicken soup base, butter, Parmesan cheese), then the lunch ¼ cinnamon bannock, a three course meal. Before bedtime, while a mosquito coil burns, I saw stovewood under the tarp shelter while it rains again multiple times.
In total on three trips to cut trails and to pre-portage, I have travelled nine extra km.
July 3, 5℃, very cloudy, strong wind. Up at 4:15 a.m. From my journal: "Thought about travel as only several km and two short portages but said POI [piss on it]." By 7:15 a.m., it is mostly sunny but there are ominous grey clouds in the north where all the rain has come from. Abandoning my POI, I pack camp after breakfast and leave by 10 a.m., a late start but a short distance to travel.