June 12, camp 3 at 3:30 a.m., a gorgeous calm morning, robin singing grandly, gray jay gently murmuring nearby, warbler singing beautifully, all good omens for travel. It is quite cool so wear an extra third shirt. When I step out of Tent thinking it is "safe" to empty pee can, I am assaulted by dozens of mosquitoes so it must be at least 10℃. Having left the door open, I quickly close it and fortunately only let a few mosquitoes inside while I eat a cold breakfast.
Paddling/poling up two separate 50 metre rapids in the same channel I reach 'unnamed lake 3'. The canoe gets grounded on rocks in the first rapids but I manage to push off and paddle/pole to the next set but bottom out again off to the side when the rapids prove too fast for me. (By "paddle/pole" I mean to use the paddle also as a "pole" to push off the river bottom where shallow enough. For this purpose I use my backup paddle, a stiffer stronger one than my regular paddle which I do not want to risk breaking.) While the canoe is stationery I change to wading gear, step into the stream, pull the canoe upstream until I can get back in, paddle/pole again to the next rapids, then wade through the rapids into the lake. Entering the canoe again, I leave my wading gear on as I may need it in the next rapids, then sponge out the small amount of water in the canoe from my canvas shoes and nylon pants.
Canoeing to the upper end of 'unnamed lake 3', the outlet is not visible until I get quite close. Sure enough I have to wade a portion of the next 50 metre rapid as the current is too strong to paddle. On reaching 'unnamed lake 4' I pull off to the side to change back to my regular clothes. Blackflies are bothersome, even on the lake, so I wear a bandana as a "hat scarf" which protects my neck and its movement helps keep the bugs away.
Reaching the end of 'unnamed lake 4, I unload at the start of Adam's 650 metre winter portage. He has a series of portages used in the winter to get to his trapping cabins by snow machine. This is my third portage so far, and I modify the portage plan again to better carry the gear. The use of three barrels is new to me this year and I have to develop a system of which loads to carry in what order that works best and is most efficient. Blackflies are quite bothersome so I start a small smoky fire to shoo them away.
Carrying the seven loads to the upper end of the portage at 'unnamed lake 5', the trail is in excellent shape, only having to throw off or break a few small trees. I am glad to see that the 2010 forest fire did not advance this far. Just as I start loading the canoe to go to the next campsite, it starts raining lightly, and the heavy thunder and dark clouds pass by, mostly missing me.
Camp 4 will be nearby in the hollow between two big hills, seven km from the previous camp, including wading up portions of three 50 metre rapids plus the 650 metre portage.
Tarp shelter set up first in a draw between the hills because of threatening rain. I tried setting it up on the exposed hillside but the strong wind dissuaded me when the tarp was whipped out of my hands. Weary and making little mistakes and taking too long to do tasks ... need to eat lunch but dig a firepit in the sandy soil first. The blackflies are very bothersome especially as I am sweaty from the portage, so the smoke helps quell them.
One bathroom hole filled in after use, and two more dug for future days, a little bit too planned ahead.
Feeling revitalized after lunch, I cut poles and erect the canvas Tent. Because I am going to be here for a few days this Tent provides more room and comfort. The stove is not required yet. Amazingly there seem to be no mosquitoes in Tent so do not bother with a mosquito coil before bed. Supper of macaroni and cheese, prepared at fireplace, with LifeStraw® filtered water to drink, is eaten in Tent.
As at many good campsites, there is a game trail traversing it, actively used by animals such as black bears.
Finally, alder catkins that are "ripe", lighter, fluffier and tastier than the green ones I have been eating to date.
June 13, I sleep in until 4:40 a.m. Temperature is 10℃ soon warming to 14℃, later 23℃. It rained on and off all night continuing into morning. I bake my first cinnamon bannock at a fireplace this year.
Because the winter portage to 'unnamed lake 6' is so long, I am pre-portaging the two heavy grub barrels, so I will "only" have five carries on the day I move camp.
At the upper end of 'unnamed lake 5', because of high water levels, I am able to use a channel bypassing about 150 metres of the winter portage to the next lake ('unnamed lake 6'). This is a side channel flowing with clear water from the main creek because water levels are so high. With difficulty, while kneeling in the canoe, I have to remove a few logs and two large rocks from the upper 20 metres of channel to allow the canoe to pass. That process, and cutting brush along the channel and to reach the winter trail, takes about 30 minutes.
Because the winter portage to 'unnamed lake 6' is so long, I am pre-portaging the two heavy grub barrels, so I will "only" have five carries on the day I move camp.
At the upper end of 'unnamed lake 5', because of high water levels, I am able to use a channel bypassing about 150 metres of the winter portage to the next lake ('unnamed lake 6'). This is a side channel flowing with clear water from the main creek because water levels are so high. With difficulty, while kneeling in the canoe, I have to remove a few logs and two large rocks from the upper 20 metres of channel to allow the canoe to pass. That process, and cutting brush along the channel and to reach the winter trail, takes about 30 minutes.
A small smoky fire in a wet spot on the winter trail while I eat lunch, shoos away the very bothersome blackflies, worse because I am sweat-soaked. Mosquitoes are equally bothersome, but unfortunately smoke does not deter them much. My hat scarf has blood on it so I know I am getting blackfly bites.
Near the start of the portage there is a thick 30 cm layer of ice and snow on the winter trail, sheltered from the sun, packed by snow machines. The hard snow is safe to travel, but I have to clear about 20 metres of brush at one point on this stretch of trail to let me walk off to the more stable side.
At 450 metres from the start of the portage, I build a stand of rocks to place the heavy barrels so I can hoist them to my back. I carry barrels 2 and 3 here to take advantage of the solid snow covered trail before it melts when it would be much harder to walk, especially with such heavy unwieldy loads. I am not sure about carrying a 36 kg (80 lb) barrel the full length of trail without stopping. The problem is if I set the barrel down I will not be able to pick it back up again. I could build a shelf about one metre off the ground of two poles lashed to three or four trees close together. Or ...?
Much of the portage is through jack pine bush, fairly level and sandy, with a gentle rise at the upper end. The trees are about 30' (9 m) tall, so probably the area was last burned at least 35 years ago (calculating five years to establish and one foot of growth per year). Taking the saw and canteen, I walk the entire length of Adam's winter trail, stepping it off at 3150 "Barry" metres. The trail is in excellent shape, only having to throw off a few small fallen trees. At the upper end of the trail at 'unnamed lake 6', I clear spots for the nylon tent and tarp shelter, the latter requiring several pines to be felled. I also cut a shovel handle and a fire stick.
There are several beautiful purple crocuses along the trail, the farthest north I have seen them.
Two morel mushrooms in a bed of reindeer lichen.
Because the portage is so long at 3150 metres, I step off and mark 1000 metre intervals by blazing two trees in each of three locations. When I state this distance as 3+ km it seems much longer. Because there is a total of seven loads, the total distance walked on this trail alone, is 41 km (3.15 x 6 x 2 plus 3.15 x 1), a bit crazy even for me, and that does not include today's 6+ km.
Part of the trail is across a wide open meadow where I see a pair of nesting robins every time I walk through. After a reacting to my grand total of nine trips, I wonder if they feel their home is being invaded. For what it is worth, I do apologize as I walk through their domain.
Some of the trail is over large stones and boulders where I have to be very careful ... take slow steps ... do not hurry! Being careful is not really an action, rather it implies some level of worry which is not the correct attitude, rather being careful is doing things to stay safe, minimizing the chance of a problem.
The stones show the bed of an ancient watercourse.
The stones show the bed of an ancient watercourse.
June 14, I prepare to go to the long portage again to carry the two heavy barrels to 'unnamed lake 6'. In case I have to build a raised shelf to hoist the barrels if I have to put them down in order to rest, I will carry the bow saw and several pieces of rope. I will also take my Personal Pack, Rubber Pack, gun and ammo, medium-sized tarp, PFD, two paddles, two canteens, sponge, rag - to cache under the canoe on shore, as well as wearing my Emergency Belt Bag and Utility Belt Bag. This gear is taken in case it rains or I get wind bound but also in case something happens to my camp gear while I am away, such as being vandalized by a bear. I get to the portage by 7 a.m.
I give myself a lecture before starting the portage over the stones ... "be careful ... short steps ... slow down!" After lifting the heaviest barrel to the rock shelf built yesterday, I work my arms through the shoulder straps, with feet well apart and knees bent, lean ahead to stand up and load it on my back, then tighten the chest strap, step ahead and I am off. The shelf works well and I manage to carry straight through without stopping. The one km blazes help me rationalize the carry and give me a pep talk, stating out very loud "Two km to go.", then "One km to go.", then about 300 metres from the next lake "Getting closer.", then about 100 metres from the visible lake "Getting close." The 2700 metre carry taking 55 minutes is hard and long, but not impossible, and yeah ... I did not have to set the load down part way. Thanks to Steven for the back brace, it feels really good, worn over shirts, under pants. I wear the back brace for several portages until becoming comfortable with heavy loads again, especially the barrels. The return trip, considered a "rest", of the full 3150 metres takes 40 minutes. From my journal: "My younger self said to portage the other heavy barrel right away. My older self thought about it momentarily but said 'No way! Will do the other barrel tomorrow.'"
Getting back to camp by 12 noon, the temperature is 18℃, very cloudy. Hanging sweat-soaked clothes to dry on the clothesline, I have a refreshing bath in the lake. Putting on my canvas Tent clothes (all cotton socks, undershorts, sweat pants, short-sleeved T-shirt), I eat lunch in the Tent, but I am quite cold after my frigid bath, so don an extra shirt. By suppertime it is raining lightly which continues intermittently all night. My neck is really stiff on one side, I think related mostly to paddling but the big portage would not help, so I take two naproxen 220 mg anti-inflammatory tablets with supper. I do not take drugs very often, but have learned with experience that it is best to nip the problem early before my body subconsciously starts compensating in a bad way, making me sore elsewhere. In bed by 7 p.m.
June 15, temperature 21℃, moderate wind which feels good when I catch it on the trail, I pre-portage the other heavy barrel. Blackflies and mosquitoes are very bothersome, especially when sweating. I thought about taking the canvas Tent pack and stove, but that is risking that I might still need them at Camp 4. At the campsite on 'unnamed lake 6', the two heavy grub barrels are together under some pine trees near the lake. There is some recent bear scat which always makes me feel nervous about my gear. In preparation for the firepit to be dug later, I fetch some firewood and birchbark tinder. To build a moss "fridge" I have to locate it 180 metres away in the closest stand of black spruce on a steep north-facing slope. The landscape here is predominantly jack pine on a floor of reindeer lichen. Wonder how many times over millennia this bush has burned.
Getting back to camp by 10:30 a.m. I have a wonderful refreshing bath, followed by lunch in the Tent. Clothes are all hanging to dry. There was a snowshoe hare near the fireplace where I peed; rabbits sure like my urine. Hear the "gronk" call of swans flying north overhead. After being quite cold from my bath, by 2:30 p.m. it is 26℃ in the sun-exposed Tent and I rest with no clothes on. I note several blackfly bites on my legs where they managed to crawl and can feel a bite welt under one eye. In bed by 7 p.m. after pre-packing to move on tomorrow.