Shoreline near camp 26 with beautiful autumn colours, yellow birch and green jack pine with some tall black spruce.
Video of canvas Tent and stove setup at camp 26, having travelled 16 km, including two portages (140, 1430 km). It would have been preferable to stop earlier above the falls but because of the very exposed site of previous Camp 24 with the likelihood of rain and no good alternatives, I do the portage down past the big falls, camping at old camp 2 on the large lower lake, a long tiring day.
September 12 at camp 25, I arise to Wilson at 4:30 a.m. with the light of a candle, not getting enough daylight until 5:40 a.m.. Going outside in the dark for a few minutes, the night sky is beautiful with stars and the undulating green waves of the aurora borealis (northern lights). My current camera sucks at night shots, at least in my hands, but the view would make a gorgeous video and photos. I do investigate the small creek flowing into the upper lake above the falls, but it too was completely burned over in 2010 and there are no appropriate campsites. Stopping at old camp 24 on the small sandy beach I don wading gear, in the company of very bothersome blackflies, as I may have to wade down the shallower side rapids above the falls. I do not want to chance using the main river course in case I cannot then make it over to the portage landing. I consider putting on the headnet, but prefer not to wear it while going down the rapids because it does obstruct visibility. At the rapids, I slide over many boulders, having to push off several. At one point the canoe is stuck, but I manage to push back upstream and move over towards deeper water and onward. Then I have to paddle hard towards shore to avoid going farther into the rapids where I would be overcome by the strong current into the first big falls.
Safely landing, I carry the loads on the 140 metre trail to the base of the falls. Fortunately I can now do portages with six instead of seven loads, carrying empty barrel 3 in one hand. From my journal: "Blackflies very bothersome and I am swatting constantly. Start a fire at the base of the falls to shoo blackflies and have lunch. Much better after eating. Was getting careless and that's not a good thing in avoiding injuries on portages. Check for a campsite in three places with no luck." It is possible to camp on the island at the head of the falls where the rapids flow around it on both sides but landing with the high water level and fast flow could be dangerous. Also going back upstream from the island if necessary would be impossible against the current, too fast to paddle and too deep to wade, especially so close to the falls. Another consideration is that with all the rain the campsite on the island may be too wet in a thin layer of moss on rock.
Loading the canoe, after examining various routes through the rapids below the first falls, I manage to bypass the 20 metre portage but the canoe does scrape over boulders. Often I examine rapids several times before deciding on the best route playing over in my mind what I must do, and even then it can be a crapshoot. Then on to the long steep 1430 metre portage with thick brush at the top end, a big step up a vertical rock cliff and finally the crowded narrow pine bordered trail. To do the step up with a load in one motion requires maintaining momentum so I think I will have to set the canoe down and then pull it up but I surprise myself and make it even though it is the sixth but thankfully final carry. Before the last two loads on the walk back, the "rest" phase, I get a leg cramp that makes me stop and groan and hobble for a bit ... aie! Probably not drinking enough water. Limping and hopping for awhile, it does not occur again when carrying the last two loads. There are lots of ripe blueberries and lingonberries along the trail but I do not want to take the time to stop and pick. Finally done, I am weary and sweat-soaked after portages, suffering blackflies plus disappointment at not finding a campsite above the falls. My jeans are soaked to mid-thigh from wet underbrush and from mid-thigh up soaked from sweat, even my belt. It is fortunate today that, although the sky is very black and threatening all day, I only get a bit wet from light intermittent rain.
From my journal: "Darn blackflies follow me right across the lake. I'm hoping for better at camp but blackflies are BAD right till dark. Buggers. Start a fire that reduces the number and keep going back to it to stand in smoke. Buggers. Get canvas Tent set up, avoiding the unstable spruce tree at front end that I was anchoring to previously. Its roots rock up in the wind, its days are numbered. I should fell it. I'm sweaty and hot, even though completely damp, so I know it's not very cold and don't need stove tonight. With Tent up and gear inside, take out pots plus mac and cheese for supper. Start a mosquito coil as there are mosquitoes in Tent, close up Tent and cook supper and heat water at firepit while I use headlamp which I also need to tie tarp rain cover over Tent. Then into Tent by candlelight, get gear organized, eat welcome supper, hang up wet clothing (to dry by stove in morn), lay out sleep gear. In a welcome bed by 10 p.m., the latest in a long time. I arrived at camp at 6:20 p.m. Sleep well."
September 13, 10℃ rising to 15℃, clear, sunny. Hungry, by 9 a.m. I am eating half a hot cinnamon bannock breakfast with a mint, Parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles, Holiday canned meat, hot water. This is a late breakfast but I had to set stove up and cut some spruce branches for the doorway. My wet clothes are hanging to dry. From my journal: "Sun shining full on the wide open doorway and there are dozens of blackflies coming and going. The going I'm OK with. Put shirt on because blackflies landing and biting." Closing up Tent with mosquito coil, I work outside with fire burning to help deal with blackflies while I saw stovewood, fetch firewood and stovewood poles, cut more boughs for outside Tent door and put up tarp shelter. Later the bugs are only a bit bothersome so I open Tent again and stoke stove to warm up after having a very cold but very welcome and needed bath. Deciding to move on tomorrow, I pre-pack, including the stove.
September 14. Because it is still raining and has rained heavy on and off all night, I shut off Wilson before his 4:30 a.m. wake up call. Still dark at 5:30 a.m. when I open the door, I set up the stove again and unpack. When I fetch water from the lake with the setting full moon hovering above the horizon the sky is clearing and I debate moving on but decide to stay. Blackflies are very bothersome again, in the Tent too with door wide open. Silly bugs die on hot stove, quite a few bodies there ... kamikazes. Warming to 17℃ later in the day, I pre-pack after supper, including stove, planning to leave tomorrow.
September 12 at camp 25, I arise to Wilson at 4:30 a.m. with the light of a candle, not getting enough daylight until 5:40 a.m.. Going outside in the dark for a few minutes, the night sky is beautiful with stars and the undulating green waves of the aurora borealis (northern lights). My current camera sucks at night shots, at least in my hands, but the view would make a gorgeous video and photos. I do investigate the small creek flowing into the upper lake above the falls, but it too was completely burned over in 2010 and there are no appropriate campsites. Stopping at old camp 24 on the small sandy beach I don wading gear, in the company of very bothersome blackflies, as I may have to wade down the shallower side rapids above the falls. I do not want to chance using the main river course in case I cannot then make it over to the portage landing. I consider putting on the headnet, but prefer not to wear it while going down the rapids because it does obstruct visibility. At the rapids, I slide over many boulders, having to push off several. At one point the canoe is stuck, but I manage to push back upstream and move over towards deeper water and onward. Then I have to paddle hard towards shore to avoid going farther into the rapids where I would be overcome by the strong current into the first big falls.
Safely landing, I carry the loads on the 140 metre trail to the base of the falls. Fortunately I can now do portages with six instead of seven loads, carrying empty barrel 3 in one hand. From my journal: "Blackflies very bothersome and I am swatting constantly. Start a fire at the base of the falls to shoo blackflies and have lunch. Much better after eating. Was getting careless and that's not a good thing in avoiding injuries on portages. Check for a campsite in three places with no luck." It is possible to camp on the island at the head of the falls where the rapids flow around it on both sides but landing with the high water level and fast flow could be dangerous. Also going back upstream from the island if necessary would be impossible against the current, too fast to paddle and too deep to wade, especially so close to the falls. Another consideration is that with all the rain the campsite on the island may be too wet in a thin layer of moss on rock.
Loading the canoe, after examining various routes through the rapids below the first falls, I manage to bypass the 20 metre portage but the canoe does scrape over boulders. Often I examine rapids several times before deciding on the best route playing over in my mind what I must do, and even then it can be a crapshoot. Then on to the long steep 1430 metre portage with thick brush at the top end, a big step up a vertical rock cliff and finally the crowded narrow pine bordered trail. To do the step up with a load in one motion requires maintaining momentum so I think I will have to set the canoe down and then pull it up but I surprise myself and make it even though it is the sixth but thankfully final carry. Before the last two loads on the walk back, the "rest" phase, I get a leg cramp that makes me stop and groan and hobble for a bit ... aie! Probably not drinking enough water. Limping and hopping for awhile, it does not occur again when carrying the last two loads. There are lots of ripe blueberries and lingonberries along the trail but I do not want to take the time to stop and pick. Finally done, I am weary and sweat-soaked after portages, suffering blackflies plus disappointment at not finding a campsite above the falls. My jeans are soaked to mid-thigh from wet underbrush and from mid-thigh up soaked from sweat, even my belt. It is fortunate today that, although the sky is very black and threatening all day, I only get a bit wet from light intermittent rain.
From my journal: "Darn blackflies follow me right across the lake. I'm hoping for better at camp but blackflies are BAD right till dark. Buggers. Start a fire that reduces the number and keep going back to it to stand in smoke. Buggers. Get canvas Tent set up, avoiding the unstable spruce tree at front end that I was anchoring to previously. Its roots rock up in the wind, its days are numbered. I should fell it. I'm sweaty and hot, even though completely damp, so I know it's not very cold and don't need stove tonight. With Tent up and gear inside, take out pots plus mac and cheese for supper. Start a mosquito coil as there are mosquitoes in Tent, close up Tent and cook supper and heat water at firepit while I use headlamp which I also need to tie tarp rain cover over Tent. Then into Tent by candlelight, get gear organized, eat welcome supper, hang up wet clothing (to dry by stove in morn), lay out sleep gear. In a welcome bed by 10 p.m., the latest in a long time. I arrived at camp at 6:20 p.m. Sleep well."
September 13, 10℃ rising to 15℃, clear, sunny. Hungry, by 9 a.m. I am eating half a hot cinnamon bannock breakfast with a mint, Parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles, Holiday canned meat, hot water. This is a late breakfast but I had to set stove up and cut some spruce branches for the doorway. My wet clothes are hanging to dry. From my journal: "Sun shining full on the wide open doorway and there are dozens of blackflies coming and going. The going I'm OK with. Put shirt on because blackflies landing and biting." Closing up Tent with mosquito coil, I work outside with fire burning to help deal with blackflies while I saw stovewood, fetch firewood and stovewood poles, cut more boughs for outside Tent door and put up tarp shelter. Later the bugs are only a bit bothersome so I open Tent again and stoke stove to warm up after having a very cold but very welcome and needed bath. Deciding to move on tomorrow, I pre-pack, including the stove.
September 14. Because it is still raining and has rained heavy on and off all night, I shut off Wilson before his 4:30 a.m. wake up call. Still dark at 5:30 a.m. when I open the door, I set up the stove again and unpack. When I fetch water from the lake with the setting full moon hovering above the horizon the sky is clearing and I debate moving on but decide to stay. Blackflies are very bothersome again, in the Tent too with door wide open. Silly bugs die on hot stove, quite a few bodies there ... kamikazes. Warming to 17℃ later in the day, I pre-pack after supper, including stove, planning to leave tomorrow.