July 3 at 11 a.m., after leaving camp 12, all gear carried to the upper end of the first 235 metre portage around the rapids. Rain falls intermittently all day as storm clouds keep rolling through.
12 noon at the lower end of the next 135 metre portage, shorter but much more difficult. The switchback trail at shore is okay to carry up most loads but there is not enough room in the trees to pivot the canoe so I pull it up to the top of the big rock face before hoisting over my head.
Portaging the canoe up the steep trail I park it near the end of the trail. I carry all loads up and over the steep high rock places, twice almost unable to finish a step up but managing with effort to make it. It takes a big step and momentum to succeed, plus at the steepest parts pulling on and pushing off trees beside the trail with one hand while hanging on to the load with the other.
Hungry, I eat lunch sitting on a bed of spruce boughs harvested from the many small trees cut from the trail. This spot is relatively clear on a somewhat level rock face 10 metres in diameter and 10 metres from the end of the portage. The plan is to canoe up the river farther to make camp so I do not bother with a lunch fire.
Loading the canoe I paddle/pole up a five metre long channel over two small waterlogged trees, then against the current leading to the small falls beside the main falls. Up another five metre channel, there is a large down waterlogged spruce in the water just before the main rapids leading to the large falls. At first I try canoeing across the tree close to the upstream bank but get stuck and have to paddle and rock the canoe to lift and back off. Now I canoe across the middle portion of the log, then paddle hard and push off and over into the main stream and then upriver away from the pull of the falls. From my journal: "In my naivety I assumed I would canoe up the river from here after the two portages to the next broader spot on the river, the one little line across the river on the map not a problem. [A line on the map across a river indicates a rapid.] WRONG! Lots of rapids and strong current. I canoed up to a very large squarish boulder in its eddy and then tried canoeing across to other side where there was a bit of an eddy against the shore so I could continue upstream. No way was the river letting me do that! Got across to the other shore lower down and then floated back as I could only hold in place, not gain "ground" (river). Stopped on the right a bit farther down and landed. Walked near shore through thick and very thick bush of mostly spruce. Decided I better look for a campsite as I'm not cutting a quick portage here!" While planning for this year's trip I had found a geology map from 1973 (46 years ago) indicating the first two portages that I cut with no current evidence of trails in those spots. The map also shows multiple portages farther upstream, now wondering if they were old Cree portages no longer maintained. I did have doubts about making my way up the river, and admit perhaps being unduly influenced by the old map.
Canoeing downstream I stop at two different places which are very steep high rock faces. One spot is only somewhat satisfactory on top but a tough climb that is wet, so slippery and dangerous. Then I canoe across to the other side that is covered in regrowth small pines from a recent forest fire. It has a flatter component near shore but very uneven big rock faces, extending down the falls, and no campsite. So now at 3 p.m. I canoe back to the head of the second portage at the falls to set up camp.
Loading the canoe I paddle/pole up a five metre long channel over two small waterlogged trees, then against the current leading to the small falls beside the main falls. Up another five metre channel, there is a large down waterlogged spruce in the water just before the main rapids leading to the large falls. At first I try canoeing across the tree close to the upstream bank but get stuck and have to paddle and rock the canoe to lift and back off. Now I canoe across the middle portion of the log, then paddle hard and push off and over into the main stream and then upriver away from the pull of the falls. From my journal: "In my naivety I assumed I would canoe up the river from here after the two portages to the next broader spot on the river, the one little line across the river on the map not a problem. [A line on the map across a river indicates a rapid.] WRONG! Lots of rapids and strong current. I canoed up to a very large squarish boulder in its eddy and then tried canoeing across to other side where there was a bit of an eddy against the shore so I could continue upstream. No way was the river letting me do that! Got across to the other shore lower down and then floated back as I could only hold in place, not gain "ground" (river). Stopped on the right a bit farther down and landed. Walked near shore through thick and very thick bush of mostly spruce. Decided I better look for a campsite as I'm not cutting a quick portage here!" While planning for this year's trip I had found a geology map from 1973 (46 years ago) indicating the first two portages that I cut with no current evidence of trails in those spots. The map also shows multiple portages farther upstream, now wondering if they were old Cree portages no longer maintained. I did have doubts about making my way up the river, and admit perhaps being unduly influenced by the old map.
Canoeing downstream I stop at two different places which are very steep high rock faces. One spot is only somewhat satisfactory on top but a tough climb that is wet, so slippery and dangerous. Then I canoe across to the other side that is covered in regrowth small pines from a recent forest fire. It has a flatter component near shore but very uneven big rock faces, extending down the falls, and no campsite. So now at 3 p.m. I canoe back to the head of the second portage at the falls to set up camp.
Camp 13 is directly on the 135 metre trail at the head of the falls, having travelled two km including this portage and the previous 235 metre trail, plus an extra 2 km trying to ascend the rapids and search for a campsite. I am weary and a bit disheartened and there is still more rain on and off, sometimes heavy. Raining hard, I get the tarp shelter set up after felling some spruce and birch trees and place some of my gear. The remaining gear is under thick spruce at the landing which sheds most of the rain.
Using birchbark collected from trees on the steep slope next to the small falls, and dead twigs from the sheltered branches at the bottom of spruce trees, I start a fire against the big rock where I had a lunch fire when pre-portaging. Once the fire is going well I add big wood, much of it punky and damp. From my journal on July 4: "Gathering firewood is never-ending task. Even though it seems like I have a lot of firewood, never enough on a day like today where I want to keep fire going. Have to wonder ... am I the only one getting rain? C'est la vie."
Clearing a spot for the canoe I store gear underneath that is not required for camp.
Next I clear a trail through 10 metres of very thick bush to an open spot near camp and directly up from the landing. It is a mossy area surrounded by large and small spruce and some small birch but also overgrown with large Labrador tea brush. I made the mistake of pitching the tent directly on that stuff once and vowed never again, very uncomfortable even if it "looks" level. Usually Labrador tea bushes are easy to pull out, but there are many big ones that I have to use the axe to get out. There are about 20 small and medium-size surrounding trees to fell, and the same number of overhanging limbs of large trees to saw. One big problem is a long large heavy punky log across the middle of the space that I cannot budge. Sawing it through near the smaller end, success, I can lift and it breaks. Then I am able to remove the rest of the log. The area is quite uneven so I use the head of the axe to level the higher spots to fill the lower. Finally after one hour of work I can erect the nylon tent, stash packs in the vestibules and sleep gear inside to be laid out at bedtime. The sleep gear was toasty dry in the canvas Tent at camp 12 this morning, so it does not need to be aired out. In this weather it would just get damp anyway. The rear vestibule is not easy to get to because of nearby trees, so I will fell some more tomorrow.
Back to the tarp shelter, I am quite hungry. Supper is a mint, oriental noodles (with Parmesan cheese and sardines) and hot water ... mmm good ... I feel much better. The water in all four pots boiled earlier when I got them out after starting the fire. Always have to think and plan ahead, no instant hot water here. In bed by 8:30 p.m. weary and tired, the temperature is 13℃ so I get in the sleeping bag right away. My bed is reasonably level and I sleep well, in fact until the late hour of 5 a.m. It rained at least twice during the night. The sound of the waterfalls close by was constant but not overbearing.
July 4, 10℃ rising to a high of 13℃, but bugs are good for a change. My first pair of jeans are worn through, especially the left knee that I favour when I kneel, so time to change to a clean set. The skin on my knee is getting abraded and bugs are biting through the now thin material. My younger self is tempted to burn them, but my older self says no, keep them just in case. At least it is not necessary to wash them anymore. This is the second season for the three jeans, and by the end of the trip they are all worn out and get discarded.
Before breakfast I cut more spruce boughs to place under the tarp shelter and gather more firewood to keep a good fire going while rain continues. From my journal: "Starting to feel quite homey. Nice to be warm, dry and comfortable. No need to 'suffer'. I momentarily thought of forgoing travel up the river (which I may very well have to do) but shelter, sleep, rest and food make me resolute to push forward. I will cut a portage around the next rapids - one little cross line on the map - but I think the rapids may be one km! The part I walked is close to shore with very steep high rock slope inland. Once I start I will be seen to make progress and will look better. Anyway that's for another day. " As I search for firewood, I find enough stones to ring the fireplace up against the protruding rock face which serves as a good reflector towards the tarp shelter. For the first time I open barrel 2 to aliquot grub for next week.
From my journal: "Time to have bath (need to stoke fire first!) and then take canoe to go fishing. The bath was glorious! Felt so much better. No fish! Tried all my best lures. Aie! Hopefully I'll get a rabbit. Saw a yellow warbler. Always so neat to see something so pretty. Heard white-throated sparrow." One place I tried fishing was after canoeing into the lee of the big square boulder that I could not paddle past yesterday. No luck fishing, but I see fireweed on the shore boulders so land to pick. Some of it is growing through last year's bear scat full of lingonberries still looking quite fresh and red in the shade. It would have been interesting to see the bear climbing amongst all the boulders along shore and possibly up the steep high cliff.
Before breakfast I cut more spruce boughs to place under the tarp shelter and gather more firewood to keep a good fire going while rain continues. From my journal: "Starting to feel quite homey. Nice to be warm, dry and comfortable. No need to 'suffer'. I momentarily thought of forgoing travel up the river (which I may very well have to do) but shelter, sleep, rest and food make me resolute to push forward. I will cut a portage around the next rapids - one little cross line on the map - but I think the rapids may be one km! The part I walked is close to shore with very steep high rock slope inland. Once I start I will be seen to make progress and will look better. Anyway that's for another day. " As I search for firewood, I find enough stones to ring the fireplace up against the protruding rock face which serves as a good reflector towards the tarp shelter. For the first time I open barrel 2 to aliquot grub for next week.
From my journal: "Time to have bath (need to stoke fire first!) and then take canoe to go fishing. The bath was glorious! Felt so much better. No fish! Tried all my best lures. Aie! Hopefully I'll get a rabbit. Saw a yellow warbler. Always so neat to see something so pretty. Heard white-throated sparrow." One place I tried fishing was after canoeing into the lee of the big square boulder that I could not paddle past yesterday. No luck fishing, but I see fireweed on the shore boulders so land to pick. Some of it is growing through last year's bear scat full of lingonberries still looking quite fresh and red in the shade. It would have been interesting to see the bear climbing amongst all the boulders along shore and possibly up the steep high cliff.
There is a good source of water five metres behind the tarp shelter, just below the start of the smaller waterfall. This is where I have a cold bath too. There is not much moss near camp so I dig a wet hole in some soil in a rock crevice near the water to place the coolers, then pile muck and wet debris around them and manage to scrape up enough moss to cover.
Looking down the river above the falls, the main set on the right, the smaller one on the left where camp 13 is located.
The river just above the falls starting at the channel which leads to camp 13 and to the smaller falls.
The river just above the main falls.
View down the river valley below the falls. I climb on and over fire-killed trees through the thick growth of small pines to get close to the top of this hill searching for fireweed with no luck.
The view of the head of the falls and the channel to the smaller falls on the far side.
A thick patch of Labrador tea in bloom, which I pick for salad, plus some spruce buds, lingonberry blooms, willow and birch leaves.
Looking upstream to the large squarish boulder that I could not paddle past, the current being deceptively fast. I could barely keep in place let alone make any headway. The water is very deep so impossible to wade and completely flooding into the bush on both sides so impossible to line the canoe. Any fast water over knee deep is difficult to wade, but this is very deep, I am sure over my head.
July 5 dawns clear, 7℃. From my journal: "Looks like nice day but I'm a poor weatherman except for what's happening right now." However, the rest of the day proves to be clear, calm and sunny with a high of 22℃.
July 5 dawns clear, 7℃. From my journal: "Looks like nice day but I'm a poor weatherman except for what's happening right now." However, the rest of the day proves to be clear, calm and sunny with a high of 22℃.
July 5, a lunch fire at the start of cutting the third portage beginning as close to the large squarish boulder as possible. Sweat-soaked clothes hang on the medium-size tarp shelter to dry. I find enough stones to create a safe fireplace on the rock face which I thoroughly douse with water when done. At noon I return from trail cutting to have lunch and then back to where I left off to finish.
The bush is so thick in many places that I decide to cut the outline of a trail, leaving the trail incomplete in places with larger trees where I will finish widening it later to allow portaging gear and canoe. Some spots still need major cutting, perhaps even relocation.
July 5, I cut an incomplete trail 770 metres around the third impassable set of rapids. Note that I blaze trees to mark the trail, especially in more open areas, after walking ahead in some places to scout the best location, often working back to the lower trail. The lower part of the trail is relatively easy to figure out where to cut because a short distance inland it is steep with many large boulders so I stick close to shore, at one point walking along an open rock face beside the river. Farther upstream I head inland up to 100 metres away from the river where there are more open areas requiring less cutting.
July 6, after breakfast, I walk the entire third trail to the upper end, my younger self trying to justify some way of moving on upstream. My older self even agrees to walk farther through the bush upriver walking back out to the water in multiple spots hoping to be convinced there is a way to keep going. At one spot I put up two snowshoe hares which would make a nice change from fish but I am unsuccessful in bagging either. There are enough scattered fireweed plants to pick two servings. Finally both selves agree, the water is too fast for me to paddle, too deep to wade and too wide into the bush to allow lining. Aie! I activate the SPOT™ Satellite Messenger to mark the coordinates of upper end of the provisional trail. Then resignedly both of us accept the decision and head back to camp.
At camp I study my maps, as I have done now several times, looking for alternate routes. I even consider the possibility of cutting a five km portage (in a straight line which would likely end up being much longer) to a lake from which I might be able to then head toward a bigger lake that I should be able to portage out of to go over the height of land and then down to the Churchill River. But even my younger self questions this possibility. Another option for a completely different trip would be to descend the river I am currently on all the way to the road many kilometres distant. The problem is I do not have the 1:50,000 scale maps for that route, just the 1:250,000 scale maps which do not show much detail, plus once I start that journey there is no turning back given the water conditions. The best option is to return the same route I came in. Sigh! Hopefully Jeanette will be able to arrange a ride back to my vehicle. Aie!
I pre-portage the two heavy barrels and the canvas Tent/stove across the two lower portages. Then when I return to camp I leave the canoe and paddles at the end of the trail just below the falls. In total at this camp I have canoed at least an extra eight km pre-portaging and cutting the third trail. After a bath and lunch, I change the bandages on my sore toe. What also seems to be helping is if I tie my boot tight instead of leaving loose which I originally thought would be better. The tighter boot seems to hurt less and at least is not doing any harm. Before bedtime I prepack and remove all the bandages from toes and just use powder which I will try alone instead of antibiotic ointment.
At camp I study my maps, as I have done now several times, looking for alternate routes. I even consider the possibility of cutting a five km portage (in a straight line which would likely end up being much longer) to a lake from which I might be able to then head toward a bigger lake that I should be able to portage out of to go over the height of land and then down to the Churchill River. But even my younger self questions this possibility. Another option for a completely different trip would be to descend the river I am currently on all the way to the road many kilometres distant. The problem is I do not have the 1:50,000 scale maps for that route, just the 1:250,000 scale maps which do not show much detail, plus once I start that journey there is no turning back given the water conditions. The best option is to return the same route I came in. Sigh! Hopefully Jeanette will be able to arrange a ride back to my vehicle. Aie!
I pre-portage the two heavy barrels and the canvas Tent/stove across the two lower portages. Then when I return to camp I leave the canoe and paddles at the end of the trail just below the falls. In total at this camp I have canoed at least an extra eight km pre-portaging and cutting the third trail. After a bath and lunch, I change the bandages on my sore toe. What also seems to be helping is if I tie my boot tight instead of leaving loose which I originally thought would be better. The tighter boot seems to hurt less and at least is not doing any harm. Before bedtime I prepack and remove all the bandages from toes and just use powder which I will try alone instead of antibiotic ointment.