July 8 camp 16, 04:54, tent site after packing to move (top photo); Tarp shelter and fireplace site (lower photo).
Two common loons keep me company during my stay, sometimes coming very close to camp when I can talk to them.
Canoe almost fully loaded at 05:23, waiting for the Rubber Pack after I eat breakfast.
05:01, completely clear sky except for wispy clouds, a jet trail and a layer of forest fire smoke at the horizon.
July 8, 06:03, just departing camp 16, a view of the rock shore where I just launched (top photo). The lower photo of the lower end of the island camp; in the left background is another island.
The tall fire-killed skeletons illustrate the size of pine trees before the fire of 2008.
July 8, 07:05, approaching the 340 metre portage trail leading to the lowermost of three small lakes that flow into the bay. As with many such paths, it is not that evident from any distance.
Canoe landed stern first to unload.
I paddle the canoe out in the bay to turn around and land bow first for portaging. There is not room at shore to turn it using the painter ropes, and no space on land in the thick brush to pivot the canoe.
The unloaded gear sitting off the trail hidden by the thick brush of alder, birch and pines.
These three birch trees along the portage have grown from roots after the forest fire, lifting up with them a piece of fire-blackened wood. I wonder how long it will stay nestled in the live branches?
Looking towards the lowermost small lake, unnamed lake 20, across the uppermost stretch of trail of muskeg covered with a thick layer of Labrador tea.
The look back at the upper end of the portage at 09:33 after launching the canoe. The creek outlet flowing to the large lake is out of view to the right about 100 metres.
Heading up unnamed lake 20 at 09:34.
Approaching the upper end of unnamed lake 20 at 10:01, heading directly towards the next creek outlet, which does not seem the likely location of a winter trail.
Paddling to the left of the creek along the shore, I locate the portage, just to the left of the tall dead spruce tree leaning 45° to the right, where I back in stern first to investigate.
Before unloading the canoe, I walk the 240 metre trail to assure it does go to the next unnamed lake 21, viewed from the top of the hill.
Looking back from the trail across an area of muskeg and Labrador tea to unnamed lake 20.
The view at 12:31 from the canoe launched in unnamed lake 21. The top photo shows the upper end of the portage. The bottom one looks back to the creek outlet flowing from unnamed lake 21 to unnamed lake 20.
Paddling up unnamed lake 21.
Approaching the creek running into unnamed lake 21 at 12:40, unnamed lake 22 can be seen through the shallows which prove to be too obstructed by boulders for the canoe to cross.
Landing at 12:54 at the upper shore of unnamed lake 21 to the left of the creek, I decide to portage 50 metres directly through thick tall sweet gale brush. First I check farther to the left where I do find a much longer 200 metre winter trail, but no sense carrying loads four times the distance of my path.
My 'trail' does not require any clearing, although I do trip and fall once on a branch while carrying a load. The final load is the canoe but I can pull it directly through and over the brush.
13:42, looking back first at the upper end of the portage, and then at the creek outlet from unnamed lake 22 flowing to unnamed lake 21.
July 8, paddling up unnamed lake 22, where I hope to find a decent campsite, not very optimistic because each of these three small lakes have very steep brush-covered burned-over shore lines. Keeping an eye out for a good spot, I focus on a small point shown on the map near the upper end which proves to be the most suitable site seen.
Photos below are taken July 9, when there is a big difference from yesterday's blue sky with white cumulus clouds; now no clouds, hazy, smoky, hot.
The Tarp shelter provides shade, aided by a vertical tarp at the side or front depending on sun location. Pine trees help but are small.
Views of shorelines in unnamed lake 22, taken from camp 17, nine km from previous camp including travel up three small unnamed lakes 20, 21, 22 and three portages (340, 240, 50 metres long).
The nylon tent is located in a levelish spot 30 metres up a path on a steep hill, requiring cutting out a large number of trees, as did the Tarp shelter, at least 200 pines plus some spruce, birch and alder.
July 9, temperature rising to 38°C, I am sweat-soaked and drink copious amounts of LifeStraw® water, by midday removing all my clothes while in the shade of two tarps, taking several cooling baths.
July 10 still a hot 34°C, a very oppressive grey sky, no clouds, heavy smoke haze.
I have to move to different areas on the spruce bough mat under the Tarp shelter as the sun tracks across the sky, so too moving the vertical tarp from side to front. Note the forest fire white ash settled on top of the Tarp.
July 11, some welcome cloud, wind and a brief early morning rain, but temperature still rising to 29°C.
Paddling one km from camp on July 11 to the upper end of the lake, to find and check portage, and to pre-portage the two heavy barrels.
Before portaging the barrels, I first walk to the upper end of the 840 metre trail, just carrying the saw. These two photos show the next unnamed lake 23 and a steep rockface near the end of the portage.
The two barrels carried to the end of the portage and tied to spruce trees. No bells on barrels, as there will be nobody to hear them except for bears.
The following photos show the varied terrain of the long trail, from the upper reaches near unnamed lake 23 back to the canoe at unnamed lake 22. The path meanders through thick brush, open park-like mature spruce, and dry and wet areas of muskeg. A beautiful setting, so nice to see some mature bush.
**********************
Summary:
Travel nine km from previous camp moving up three small unnamed lakes 20, 21, 22 and three portages (340, 240, 50 metres), the first two winter trails in good condition. The latter portage is a short carry through thick tall brush, pulling the canoe rather than carrying it. Sweat-soaking, oppressive heat, temperature rising to 38°C. Fell at least 200 trees to prepare camp for Tarp shelter and tent. Meet John, another solo canoeist.
July 8:
Up at 03:00 to a reddish-orange sunrise I think mainly due to forest fire smoke. Remembering now to send SPOT™ messages at the completion of shorter portages, I initiate the first at 09:00 on the 340 metre trail. (For longer portages I will use the SPOT™ at both start and finish.) Paddling up the small unnamed lake 20, there are no obvious campsites, steep shores all burned in 2008 as far as the eye can see (not that I need a campsite here). Like the first portage, the second is not obvious but this time I do not disembark at the inflowing creek to check, instead paddling along shore to the left side. The right side is steep and unlikely to harbour a path. Spotting a possible trail, I canoe farther just to make sure, before going back. Landing, it is a trail but I walk its length to make sure. (Once at an unknown trail I did not check and started carrying the first load but soon realized it did not go in the desired direction; another was a false path, a game trail that petered out.) This is also a winter trail, brushy but in good shape up a steep 45° hill. At the second smaller rise I can see both lakes front and back. The owner of the trail, likely a local trapper, knows where it is, no need to mark it. This portage to unnamed lake 21 is 240 metres long. (The numbers of these unnamed lakes are my own, established over the years; in the area covered by the map there are such lakes starting at 1 to make it easier to map routes. I used to name such lakes based on a happening, eg, 'Bear-ate-cushion Lake' or the shape of the lake, eg, 'Triangle Lake'.) This SPOT™ was initiated at noon. Moving up unnamed lake 21, from a distance I can see through the narrows of the next creek to unnamed lake 22. Hopeful that I will be able to paddle or wade the canoe, I do remark out loud though "... but only 50% optimistic". Landing close to the creek on its left side, it proves to be very rocky and bouldery, and though only about 10 metres long not passable. The right side of the creek is steep, so on the other side I walk through the very thick one metre tall sweet gale brush about 50 metres to unnamed lake 22. Then I examine the area farther to the left where I do find a winter trail at least 200 metres long. From my journal: "Decide to do my 50 metre portage ... duh! It is relatively dry and level. Because it is short, I carry the barrels without the pack harness and pull the empty canoe through and on top of the brush. No problem! Leave a bit of a trodden path that will remain evident for a short while. Hungry! Paddle to the first steep rockface shore to stop for lunch. Stiff breeze blows blackflies away so don't need to start a fire. Moving on, I check three areas for a campsite. Aie! Might be a hard luck camp! Steep shores, burned. Some tall live spruce only in too steep or too low places."
Evident on the map there is a small jutting peninsula near the upper end of unnamed lake 22, that I had my eye on for a possible camp before even reaching the lake. This is the last lake before the height of land crossing to three more lakes draining in the opposite direction. Landing at the most protruding point, it is doable but with lots of clearing required. Paddling a short way to another point, it proves far too steep with quite thick shorter bush. Then I canoe along the whole length of the peninsula's left side which is all too steep, all burned. Back to the first spot, I exclaim "This is it". I can see to the upper end of the lake and do not notice anything else promising. There is an area across the bay down the lake at least one km away that from a distance might be okay, but of course cannot tell without being there. Finally, I again say "This is it" and unload. Camp 17 will be on this small peninsula facing down unnamed lake 22, after going through unnamed lakes 20 and 21, nine km (including two winter portages 340, 240 metres, and a 50 metre path through brush bypassing a 200 metre winter trail). First thing, I clear down firewood at a spot for the canoe under which I store gear not required for camp. Next priority is clearing a location for the Tarp shelter, having to cut out quite a few pines, some birch, alder and spruce, saving the latter for a mat. I lay out the Tarp to check the space, not wanting to remove any trees unnecessarily, needing as many as possible standing to provide some shade and wind protection. Tarp up, I transfer needed gear underneath (Kitchen Barrel, Rubber Pack, Waist Pack, empty canteen, tools, chair.) The two heavy barrels I place in front of the Tarp shelter beside pine trees to be tied later. Before I can attempt carrying the tent gear to the location up a steep hill about 30 metres, I need to cut out a path, then clear the area for the tent. Even more trees to fell, plus some down ones to saw out, still leaving quite a few of the latter to step over. The tent area has more trees and down logs to cut out, then level with axe head, knowing that the tent will still be on a downward facing slope. All told, I fell at least 200 trees, including later ones I need for more spruce boughs to level and pad underneath the Tarp shelter. From my journal: "Hot work! Aie! Wonder if it reached 30°C? Have sweated a lot today, sweat-soaked. Drank lots LifeStraw® water plus one canteen while portaging." Tent up and gear inside but not laid out, I know it is late, especially with all the clearing. Hungry, get a fire on to boil water. Bugs not bothersome, I remove my shirt, then tie the two barrels while waiting for water to boil. Supper will be oriental noodles (with Parmesan cheese, sardines), protein bar, hot water. Clothes all off now, bugs still okay, I set the supper pot near fire to keep warm. Before eating, I have a very welcome bath, clothes hung on the Tarp ridgeline to the side of the shelter where multiple ropes had to stretch a long ways to reach a suitable anchor tree. Thankfully, the fireplace and bath area are now in some shade as the sun lowers closer to the horizon. After eating, weary and tired I am ready for bed. Carrying gear to the tent, I still have to spread the floor tarp and lay out sleep gear. The Kitchen Barrel is stored in the front vestibule for the night; other gear is in the rear vestibule. Before entering the tent though, I prune some spruce branches for the front vestibule to cover the brown soil and humus exposed when levelling (to prevent tracking dirt into the tent). I knew the floor slopes downwards but now realize it also tips sideways which is uncomfortable, so I get out the medium tarp from the rear vestibule to help level the mattress. In bed by 22:00, sleep is satisfactory, but will get more underlay for the tipped side tomorrow night.
July 9:
Temperature today starts hot, 28°C by 09:00, no clouds to be seen, not good, another heat wave? It gets hotter 35°C by noon, gets even hotter 38°C by midafternoon. Aie! I start the day wearing clothes to do some chores, but after my first bath, one of several, I sit under the Tarp shelter with no clothes on, sweating doing nothing. Aie! The medium tarp is fastened to the east side of Tarp shelter to block the morning sun which helps considerably, later moving it to the front as the sun moves south and west. At first I use clothespins to fasten the tarp, but then rig ropes which work better to hold the bottom in place. Initially I do not use a pole to hold the Tarp shelter up, but I find that if I touch the Tarp with my bare back it is so hot it could burn; raised with a pole (tip protected by a square of canvas) it then is noticeably cooler beneath the shelter. As I update my journal, read some Reader's Digest and do some puzzles, I keep falling asleep. When I searched for the butter coolers a few days ago, I fell walking through the many down trees and I think the rear gun sight moved, even though I held the gun up to protect it. Checking the sight, I find that it is off centre, so reset it using the axe as a hammer and multitool as punch, finding that it moves much too easily, but will have to do until I can get it adjusted properly at a gunsmith back home. Then I test fire to assure reasonable accuracy. I have to keep moving my chair under the shelter as the sun slides across the sky. From my journal at 17:25: "Bugs including flies have been okay; they're not happy with heat either. Not cooling! Was thinking of moving on tomorrow but that could be a big mistake. If it stays this hot I could have trouble coping with portages and paddling. Will stay, or at least not prepack. There's still four more portages, the next one a long one, so better to be safe than sorry!" Supper is delayed until 19:00 and includes fireweed picked along the path to the tent. I wear socks and unlaced boots with no insoles as my feet and ankles get too dirty in the Crocs™ sandals. My clothes are dry and rolled up in the jeans in the Rubber Pack to keep clean (or from getting more dirty). The water in the pots is warm just from the ambient temperature, not having been near the fire since breakfast. To bed by 21:00, I place the PFD under the top side of the bed and two tarps folded in four layers lengthwise under the side to level it nicely. Falling asleep on the bed sheet in just pajama socks and undershorts, I don pajamas later and crawl into the fleece shell; I sleep well, proof of a level bed. I am even a bit chilled before waking at 05:15, solved by curling up. From my journal: "Cool temperature a good sign but I am doubtful."
July 10:
Rising at 05:15, 15°C, there are no clouds, just a smoke haze and smell, even some white ash fallen on the tent and Tarp shelter. Getting up, about 10% hopeful to make a late start, I leave the tent prepped to remain in camp. To get more spruce boughs, I fell 15 spruce trees along the path to the tent, limbing them underneath the Tarp shelter to make a more comfortable and larger floor to accommodate moving out of the sun throughout the day. As I have been doing since landing here, I drink LifeStraw® water frequently. The loud unmistakable laughing call and hammering of a pileated woodpecker reverberates across the lake as both he and I eat breakfast; I heard him several times yesterday too. Frustrated with the second heat wave, I send a text to Jeanette at 07:00: "38 ydy. When this heatwave over?" Noting that I am getting too brown, too much sun on arms and face because it is too hot to wear heavy long shirt and feels more comfortable without hat, I make a journal entry to consider switching out my short-sleeved shirts worn as undershirts with long-sleeved light cotton ones; in short shirt I also get more scratches and burns on my arms. This morning I can clearly hear the sound of rapids about three km away, those that I hope to portage to and canoe down. At lunch I note the protein bars and Mini Babybel® cheese are getting soft and misshapen in my Lunch Bag in the Rubber Pack in this heat. After doing some chores and eating breakfast by 08:50, temperature has risen to 27°C, almost calm, not a cloud to be seen; I doff clothes, just wearing socks and untied boots. From my journal: "smiling ... and the day is free ... all mine", and at 9:50: "Sure glad I didn't move on today! That pileated woodpecker sure gets around or there's more than one; was on one side of the lake, then the opposite side, now down the lake." Not many animals seen or heard, the heat is affecting all activity, not just mine; besides the pileated woodpecker, a loon called once, saw a small wren and a common merganser fly past, heard a chattering squirrel nearby. At 11:30, it is 33°C and I write: "Thank goodness I did chores before the heat of the day! Not eating lunch again today, just LifeStraw® water, not hungry in this heat. Aie! Look at map to check the route to be travelled next. About one km to upper end of this lake. A straight line at the possible portage route to the next lake is 600 metres, so could be 800 or more. Need to get up early to get that portage done. Map shows steep contour lines close to shore on all three of the next lakes, even on the biggest island of the uppermost one, not a good sign for campsites, especially in such hot weather. Waiting out heat is best strategy. Aie! A small isle on unnamed lake 23 even has a dot of a contour line in the middle." (Contour lines on the map are at 10 metre altitude intervals.) By midafternoon, temperature rises to 34°C, no clouds; I am hot, sweaty and sticky doing nothing, falling asleep periodically. Aie! When I put up the vertical side tarp, I realize it would be best to face the white underside outwards to better reflect the sun. From my journal: "A bit hungry but can't be bothered. A few bothersome flies and always crawling ants, but not too bad. Avoiding Bug Tent if I can so I better get the effect of any breeze. Doing a hard sudoku, I have a breakthrough, yay!"
At 16:50, I am surprised by human sound from my point but cannot see anything from where I sit. Pulling on undershorts, I meet John a solo canoeist who is also trying this route for the first time, though we will head in opposite directions at my target river valley. He pulled his canoe up on the rock point when he saw my camp. John flew in to a lake on the Churchill River and is travelling light compared to me, planning to move much faster. We chat for about 30 minutes before he moves on to check the next portage. Unfortunately he missed the previous second winter trail, and bushwhacked beside the creek where he observed some old saw cuts, probably from the original canoe portage. He did find my 50 metre path where I dragged the canoe to make my own trail on the last portage. After supper I notice John paddles back to make camp on the other side of the lake closer to the next portage, but with less tree shelter than I have. Hopefully he found an existing winter trail.
Before bedtime, I check for a response from Jeanette to my text: "OK. Temp varies Mon22 Wed23. Many fires. Not 4uyet. May be smoke." Confused by the dates, I am thinking she meant this coming Monday and Wednesday 12 and 14, but sure hoping not a week later. I assume the heatwave is widespread, although Jeanette does check weather for locations closer to my route, plus wildfire maps from the websites for Saskatchewan and the federal system.
July 11:
From my journal: "Arise to very dark clouds and smoky haze with a nice rain later for 30 minutes ... yay! Give thanks for clouds, rain and the fish I caught. Feels so much better! Breakfast at 07:35, not my typical one. Caught a thin 24 inch pike from shore. Eating fish chowder, not as good without butter though! Had him or three others on red & white spoon but just hooked lightly and got away. Switched to a Mepps® Syclops blue spoon to do the job. No moss to store the fish. Water along shore sure warm; had thought to keep cleaned fish in Ziploc® bag in the lake but that won't work. So ... supper meal at breakfast. After getting the diced fish on fireplace to boil it starts to rain and becomes heavy for a bit ... yay! Strong wind blows Tarp shelter pole down. Have to crouch at the back of the shelter to avoid wind driven rain. Wind doesn't last long so put pole back up. Add wood to the fire, and place pot of fish back on to boil. Now plan to leave tomorrow and will prepack."
After breakfast, I load the three barrels in the canoe to check the next trail and to pre-portage the two heavy barrels. I bring the Kitchen Barrel for safety and possibly to use to raise the barrels to ease hoisting to my back. Also in the canoe are tarp, gun and the two packs with critical gear (Rubber Pack, Personal Pack). Paddling across the lake and along the shore, I reach John's campsite where he is just breaking camp, having slept in when it rained. I startle him, so payback (said with a smile). He tells me the portage is in good shape, a winter trail, located in the centre of the upper end of the lake. John walked the path yesterday, sawing a few trees and blazing a detour around a large downed tree. I only have to saw one down spruce tree that the wind had felled overnight since John cleared the path. Paddling to the end of the lake, I remove the two heavy barrels but leave the rest of the gear in the canoe out in the lake, pulled farther down the shore to be out of John's approach. In camp I had aliquoted next week's grub to the Kitchen Barrel and also split the contents of the other two barrels to help even the loads. Raising the heavier barrel from the other, I do not need to use the Kitchen Barrel for that purpose. The other lighter barrel I manage to hoist directly from the ground for my second carry. On the return walk, meeting John doing one of his carries, the trail measures 840 metres. The portage passes through some beautiful scenic areas, so nice to see some mature bush. After tying both barrels to spruce trees at the upper end of the portage, I meet John on my return when he is on his last carry to the halfway point where he is stashing his gear to finish the portage in two stages. We are both sweating and I do not envy him the extra portage carries, especially as the day will probably get hotter. We chat again for several minutes; John is near my vintage (a good one), canoes every summer, and we compare interests. John tends to do shorter faster trips to my more leisurely ones. I did the former when, still working, I was on a strict schedule. As he says, there is no right or wrong way, each to his own. Paddling back to camp is difficult, the headwind very strong generating whitecaps on the waves, barely getting around the point, the last most exposed stretch. John will make good time paddling with such a strong tailwind.
Eating late lunch at 13:40, the wind is even stronger, glad to have made it back to camp when I did, otherwise I might have been windbound less than one km away. It is 26°C but bearable because of the wind; the sky is mostly blue, a nice change, with some cloud but still the smoke haze at the horizons. I change socks wet from one muskegy area of the portage plus when I landed and launched the canoe having to step into the shallow shore water of the lake. By midafternoon the temperature rises to 29°C and I wonder how John is doing. At lunch, my sweaty clothes are hanging on the line to dry, the wind blowing them straight out. For supper I eat my breakfast fare, not a habit I want to follow. After prepacking to leave tomorrow, I am in bed by 18:00, tired, especially because I did not sleep well last night.