June 6, 5:55 a.m., canoe almost loaded at camp 3. (Tarp cover still has to be tucked in.)
Dark clouds do not look very promising.
Entering the long bay towards the 870 metre target portage.
The following photos on June 6 are of the areas on the trail that are wet and muddy before clearing the next day to make them more passable.
My younger self thinks we should be able to portage now. My older self knows this portage is usually wet and muddy so really no surprise when we walk the length of the trail and see that it is in bad shape, very muddy. We decide to set up camp and clear a path to bypass the worst spots.
A ruffed grouse beside the trail.
Canoeing back to the closest good site for camp. I have travelled 4.5 km, plus two extra km to the portage and back to camp 4.
June 7 early morning looking across the bay from camp, the weather is decent as I leave to clear the portage.
The following photos show those parts of the trail that I spend four hours clearing a track to bypass the worst wet and muddy areas. This is a winter trail that gets worn into the ground, especially muskeg locations, creating low water-filled spots made worse by a forest fire. I am now able to avoid the deep mud, even if the footing over down trees and thick brush and Labrador tea is precarious. No hurried walking with a load here.
A drier trail cleared to the left at the start of the portage.
A path through the brush on the right side. Hard to tell, but the bottom photo looks back at the area (seen on the left) that I cleared. It is certainly not perfect but better than wading through the deep mud. When I cannot see the ground beneath, tripping, or worse, getting a boot caught in a hole, can be dangerous, especially when alone. It is no fun trying to extricate a trapped foot while carrying a heavy load.
Another place with deep mud where I veer to the right side. Again the bottom photo looks back to the bypass (viewed on the left).
Some trees and brush removed on the left so that I can walk to the side of this section.
A trail cleared on the right side.
Clearing done on the left. Near the end of the trail on the left, the large fallen spruce tree sticking out at chest height is too large for me to saw off, and too low to walk under, but having cut off all the limbs two metres back I am able to place packs underneath to then finish carrying farther. The tree had fallen across the winter portage from the right side, and had been chainsawed off to let snow machines past. To skirt the tree I would have had to step into the water-filled channel over my boots.
A headnet is a must against the very bothersome blackflies, always worse when sweating and stopped even if for a moment. Notice the bugs on the net and shirt. No-nos when wearing a headnet are spitting, catching it on branches and standing too close to flame. When using a one litre canteen I usually drink directly from the bottle, but with the headnet it is better to pour into the cup and slip it under the net. Regardless I tend not to hydrate well enough when using a headnet because of the extra bother.
At the portage landing I left gear in the canoe covered with a tarp against rain. Because I am away for several hours, hopefully it is less likely to be bothered by a bear. Equipment includes Rubber Pack, Personal Pack, medium tarp, gun, two paddles, duffle bag (with Tool Bag, travel pot, PFD, sponge). If necessary I have enough gear to set up a temporary camp, for instance if I become windbound. Note the tree pollen thick on the surface of the lake. While clearing the trail, I wear the Waist Pack and carry a canteen of water, plus bow saw, pruners and axe.
Video of the very very very heavy rainfall that lasted over 30 minutes. But heavy rain went on for at least two hours.
Transcription of what I say in the video, starting at 57 seconds (under the noise of the rain on the Tarp shelter): "Oh man it's been raining like this for half an hour. Boy oh boy oh boy. I got back from clearing portage for four hours just in time. The rain gods were good to me today because the rainstorm and thunder was all around me while I worked. Then this started when I got back to camp. Amazing."
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Summary:
Distance travelled 4.5 km, plus four extra km over two days to check portage and four hours to clear the 870 metre muddy trail. Bothersome blackflies mandate use of headnet. Ruffed grouse beside trail. Very very very heavy rainfall, then to bed without supper.
June 6:
Thinking it rained last night, I shut off the alarm at 3 a.m. and reset for 4, still planning to travel today. After packing the sleep gear and exiting the tent, everything is dry! The fly surface is coated with yellow pollen, which is what I heard hitting the tent. It is quite cloudy and thundering. The canoe loaded, I eat a cold breakfast in a very light rain from a thunderstorm passing just beside camp. With trepidation because of the grey stormy looking sky, I shove off. Because I am 80% sure I will have to clear the trail, I scan for a possible campsite closer to the next portage. The map shows a small island at the end of a bay, but I can see from a distance it is not suitable, still regrowing from a forest fire. Continuing on through a narrow channel into the target bay I stop at a likely campsite that is much closer to the portage, but on mainland. A small island is preferred because it is less likely to have bear problems, though not absolute. Another good reason to identify a campsite is that it sure looks like rain which might settle in for a long spell, not just a passing thunderstorm. The spot proves to be a good one with a steep rock face shore stretching about 70 metres along the lake with a low place at one end for access. The shore sits up three metres above the water. From a distance I see a few tall jack pines, often a sign of level ground and good campsite. There is more than one location for the Tarp shelter, nylon tent and fireplace, though all close to shore so exposed to wind. I do not readily see a spot for the canvas Tent.
Continuing on one km, I reach the end of the bay where the 870 metre portage starts at one side. Although I could have run the creek from the first large lake like I did last year and already be on the Churchill River, on my return I plan on taking this muddy portage because it is shorter and 'easier' than the two km trail along the creek. Another reason is that there are other lakes to explore near here which I intend to do before heading back to my vehicle. I wanted to check the 870 metre trail to make sure it is still open and to clear it if necessary. From my journal: "My older self somewhat agrees with younger to do the portage now. But older knows it may be muddy and need clearing; younger says 'So what! Let's just get it done.' Older says it sure looks like rain and once we commit to the portage we have to finish; younger again says '... so?' Aie!. As we walk the trail to check it out, it is muddier than the last time I was here three years ago and that is saying a lot. There are several spots quite deep, maybe requiring high boots, maybe hip waders?! Last time in one muddy spot carrying a heavy load my foot got trapped beside a root in the mud. No fun with a heavy load trying to free my foot. Aie! My younger self subdued, we decide to come back tomorrow to clear some areas a bit wider to skirt the mud. But there are one (or two?) spots so deeply muddy and wet definitely have to cut a trail out several metres to the side. This is a winter trail and gets tracked down, then holding water. The 12 canoeists were on a tight one week schedule and just powered through. All those I saw were wearing low runner-type shoes, not good for this stuff. No wonder I saw all the mud-covered pants up to their knees. I'm out for the long haul and don't want to get my boots full of water, worse yet mud, even though they are nine inches high."
At one point, there is a ruffed grouse standing on a log just off the trail in the brush, acting like a spruce grouse (fool hen) - no fear. I did not spot any fireweed and strangely there was none on the previous two portages. Walking back to the canoe, I paddle the one km to set up camp 4, seeing a bald eagle launch from a tree at shore; I see several bald eagles every day. There is very little clearing required for the Tarp shelter. It takes quite a bit of clearing for the nylon tent site and then even more after I lay out the tent because I underestimate the space needed. Just as I finish setting up the tent, rain starts and I get gear inside before too damp. (Other gear is already under the canoe or Tarp shelter.) For the fireplace I haul rocks from the far low end where the canoe is parked. There I also see that a very long time ago someone sawed stovewood that is all rotten. There is lots of easy firewood here and with the fire going in the light rain I get the pots on to boil water. Lastly I tie the two heavy barrels to spruce trees. Eating supper under the Tarp shelter, the mosquitoes are quite bothersome. After cleaning teeth and dishes and tying Kitchen Barrel, I head to the tent. I planned on bathing but it is too cool in the breeze with very little sunshine through grey cloud. A gull floats in the bay as it has done for several hours expectantly waiting for food to no avail. In bed by 7:30 p.m..
June 7:
Up by four a.m., it is a cool 10°C. Sitting near the fireplace under the spruce tree where I cut off the branches so they would not catch fire, I have a breakfast of freshly baked cinnamon bannock, Parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles and hot water. The sky does not look promising, very dark clouds, mosquitoes bothersome. All gear in the rear vestibule of the tent to allow use of the canoe, I leave by 7:30 a.m.. Starting to clear the portage at 9 a.m., I make better time than anticipated, finishing by 1 p.m.. Widening the trail beside the worst muddy spots, there are two locations where I cut a trail off to the side several metres. Thunderstorms roll through all around me, not on me, but close; I get only very light rain. Thanking the rain gods several times, I would be a lot damper than just from sweat if I got rained on. I see some fireweed off the trail but do not take the time to pick. Blackflies are very bad so thank goodness for the headnet. Returning to camp, I start a fire to heat water in light rainfall. After being away like this from camp I always return with some apprehension but thankfully everything is intact. The only 'safe' way would be to leave a second person at camp in case a bear did show up. The other animal that could cause problems is a wolverine, but I have only had issues with one in winter.
Eating a late lunch at 2:30 p.m. under the Tarp shelter, heavy rain and thunder starts. From my journal: "Rained very very very heavy for over ½ hour. Amazing! Maybe? the hardest longest I've ever seen. So glad I got portage clearing done and back to camp before the rain! Was thinking to move on tomorrow but now my older self says I should stay to dry out and repack [gear not yet put away that I took to the portage]. The rinsed handkerchief, bandana and headnet are still wet. Use my chair towel to dry Lunch Bag and Writing Bag when I didn't notice the heavy rain splashing a previously dry spot under the Tarp. Still raining quite hard. Good weather for the canvas Tent and stove! Chilled, put on heavy fleece sweater. Can't have a fire safely in front of Tarp [on humus with lots of brush]. Amazingly still see a bit of smoke at fireplace after putting large pot of water on to boil. Oh man ... still raining heavy! For over one hour now. Making a dash to the tent to make sure it withstood the rain, I discover that the side zipper of the front door was left half open while I was away! Dumb! Will light a mosquito coil when I can get to the tent if it stops raining! Aie! Continue to write my journal and do puzzles ... in between napping. After two hours of heavy rain it slows but will wait awhile longer before I say yes it's stopped. At 14°C and a cool breeze, I still have fleece sweater on even though I keep thinking I should take it off. I'm in the tent now at 5 p.m. after removing the mosquito coil with only one inch burned [probably enough of the two inch piece I usually use]. Giving the tent some time to rest, I moved all gear to the back vestibule except Clothes Pack and Kitchen Barrel in front vestibule. [I usually wait 30 minutes after lighting the coil to give the fumes a chance to settle, but not today; I'm chilled.] Usual gear inside tent plus chair. Still dressed and with sweater on I examine the inside of the tent to make certain no leaks. My neck sure aches yet! At 5:10 p.m. it is raining hard and steady, could be an all-nighter. Well it's been steady since before 2:30 p.m., just different rates. Doesn't look like I'll be eating outside. Could eat some stuff from my Lunch Bag but not that hungry after late lunch. [I always keep two days worth of breakfast and lunch in the Lunch Bag for just such situations.] 6:05 p.m., finished another crossword. Aw heck with it ... going to bed without supper."