Camp 13, July 15 at 4:15 a.m., stopped raining but still very cloudy and windy. Rain is bad when portaging, wind is good (except carrying the canoe when hit by a side gust).
5:34 a.m., ready to shove off, after releasing the painter. (I would never park a canoe fully in the water without tying it in place.) The old beaver lodge provides a good landing.
5:35 a.m., one last look back at the camp 13 site.
While portaging from unnamed lake 9.6 to unnamed lake 10, I step on a layer of brush which disguises a hole and almost fall with the load. On the return trip for another carry I make sure to plug the hole so I do not make the same mistake again.
Landing at the start of the long portage on unnamed lake 10 where it is easy to pull the canoe quite far onto shore for drier unloading.
I was feeling quite cocky in carrying the last load, the canoe, up the steep 300 metre hill from unnamed lake 10 ... until I was not. At the lower blazed spruce in the photo I had to make a sharp turn in order to step up a steep rock face but unfortunately the bow of the canoe went to the wrong side of the tree. I am going one way, the canoe another, so had to set the load down and drag it past the spot. I vow to remember "next" time (hopefully never) to fell the offending tree.
The first fireweed plant seen in bloom.
At the top of the hill looking back across unnamed lake 10 to unnamed lake 9.6 and then to the big lake in the distance. Thankfully I can see a little blue sky through the clouds.
The first leg of the long portage at the 300 metre mark sees all the gear carried to the top of the hill by 8:30 a.m..
By 11:30 a.m., the gear now at 1300 metres just before crossing the small boggy valley.
The first of five carries at 12 noon at the big step near the end of the long 1860 metre portage, set above the drop to be lifted down from below.
By 1:55 p.m. all gear sits at the top of the steep rock hill to be carried down one item at a time.
There is no way to safely carry the canoe down the hill, so I lower it using the painter.
By 3:55 p.m., canoeing across the target river on its upper lake, unnamed lake 11. Now I have to find a campsite, no easy task here, taking nine stops to check potential spots, not choosing one until 6 p.m..
9 a.m. July 16, Camp 14 on the target river's unnamed lake 11, one km upstream from the long portage, after travelling five km, including two portages (250, 1860 metres); I also canoe five extra km searching for a campsite. The chosen site is up a steep slope 40 metres from the shore. There are no tall live trees so I make use of some standing dead ones to anchor the Tarp shelter. I have pushed over all the weak trees within falling distance of camp, leaving the more stable ones. To level the fireplace for pots on the hill, I use burned coals.
There is enough moss in one spot for a "fridge" to store the coolers.
The view up the hillside beside and behind camp. The 2010 forest fire has burned as far as the eye can see in all directions with little pockets of spared mature bush along shore where there is spruce bog, unsuitable for camping.
Cliffs directly across the water from camp illustrate the steepness of the river valley seen up to now, unable to view very far inland in any direction.
Looking up the river from camp.
Some of the deadfall cleared to make room for the tent and Tarp shelter, provides lots of firewood.
Hot breakfast at 9:20 a.m. July 16 (cinnamon bannock, parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles, red currants picked at previous camp).
Three pike caught up the lake from the canoe, when filleted make two big servings, divided equally into two small Ziploc® bags. At the bottom of the bags is fish liver. I stop at 1 p.m. July 16 on a rock outcrop to clean the catch, well away from camp.
Heading down the river back to camp after fishing, looking forward to a big meal of fried pike.
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Summary:
Camp 14 on the target river's unnamed lake 11, one km upstream from the long tough portage, after travelling five km, including two portages (250, 1860 metres); I also canoe five extra km searching for a campsite. It rains several times while I look for two hours to find a campsite. Very weary and tired, late incomplete setup of camp, do not get to bed until 10:15 p.m.. The next day a welcome catch of pike for two meals.
July 15:
From my journal (written on July 16): "Up by 3 a.m. at camp 13 even though Wilson set for 3:30. It is just light enough to dress and pack before leaving tent without use of a headlamp. Very strong wind but no rain. Decide to pack and place all under Tarp shelter; if I have to set camp up again, so be it, as I will have all day. When I exit tent, very cloudy, very gloomy, but take it down anyway. Decide to leave after breakfast, figuring perhaps clouds all rained out for a bit. First 250 metre portage from unnamed lake 9.6 to unnamed lake 10, five carries. Canoe easier to load and carry this time because of yoke pad but especially because of canoe tump canvas - makes a big difference as my head takes some of the weight; easier to load too. Thank goodness as I thought I was getting weak when loading with no yoke pad or tump during the time I was cutting portage. Strong wind subdues bugs so no headnet. Land at long portage and make five carries to top of hill, 300 metres. Had thought to change socks before continuing, but boots not 'too' wet. Also don't want to delay and upset the rain gods who I've asked to hold off rain if possible till I reach campsite, better yet till camp set up. On going up the hill I fall three times, once with a barrel, once with canoe. Darn moss grabs me stepping down as I sink into it and darn darn Labrador tea grabs me stepping up. The latter causes two falls tripping me up when one foot didn't keep up to the other. The canoe causes the other fall, but because I got bow on wrong side of a spruce tree half way up the hill. Had to set canoe down and pull it up over two rock ledges. Surprisingly, canoe seems easier to carry than some other loads on this very steep hill with some high and even steeper rock faces. Next portion of portage is 1000 metres to the point where it crosses the little boggy valley. Again in this long stretch of muskeg, same problem with moss and Labrador tea, I fall at least three times. Give myself a lecture: 'Barry, be methodical! Just because the left foot steps successfully, don't automatically follow with right foot if it is in a bad position; "feel" for obstructions.' The last 560 metre portion has the most problems yet with thick muskeg and Labrador tea. Fall three? times but wrench my right hip, either that or it is cramping up. Mindfulness helps to calm it a bit (something my younger self would think is rubbish, but I am convinced it does help and use it regularly). Sometimes I feel I am dragging my right leg as it hurts to do a full step. When it comes time to carry the canoe, I fall when starting the last 100 metres across the many large logs, so I drag the canoe which is easy as it is downhill, the logs serving as skids. Park all the gear and canoe at the top of the big steps down to the water and carry one pack at a time. There is room at shore to store all the gear, the thick sweet gale brush keeping it from getting wet on the muskeg. Last to go is the canoe which I ease down using a painter. Yay ... make it! Weary and sore right thigh; I do think it is cramping, not a sprain or strain, thank goodness, not drinking enough water. It's 4 p.m., have had no lunch and it's supper time already. Spend two hours looking for a campsite. Canoe two km up the river to check the two small isles shown on the map, knowing they will likely have been burned, and that proves true. Then paddle back against a very strong headwind. Aie! I knew I was being pushed by the wind going up the river, but felt I should check out the islands. Of course I am keeping an eye out for possible campsites along the shore. Check three mature spruce copses, landing to walk inland, but they are very wet, holey and boggy. Also check two locations with dead large burned pines but to reach them it is much too thick with brush and Labrador tea on muskeg, a hard time walking even without carrying a load. Check two spots with a few live large pines but very challenging to reach through the many down trees. Then check two sites that appear possible but prove too sloped and steep. These places all look good from a distance, but are disappointing up close, having to land and walk to evaluate. I check both sides of the relatively narrow river; fine to say "narrow" but doesn't seem so when paddling, especially against the wind. I have canoed two km upstream, then back again almost to the portage, plus into several small bays. It has rained several times, moderately heavy, but the strong wind and hard paddling dries me a bit, not bothering to don raingear. When I stop paddling to check potential campsites, I am shivering with cold, not good. Finally I paddle to a spot that I have passed both going up and then back again and now back upstream. It looks too steep from the water, but on landing proves to be the best area so far, even though I have to walk up 30° and 45° slopes. It is fairly open with small pine regrowth, small because it is on rockface covered with shallow moss. There are mature trees along shore but very few above, mostly a few standing dead trees, many down fire-killed. Up the slope 40 metres there is one levelish spot that needs quite a bit of clearing of dead trees and some axe and spade work to level the tent site. There are too many standing dead trees to cut down right now, but I push over the precarious ones. Down the slope there is a location for the Tarp shelter and below that for a fireplace, neither level but good enough. I spot some stray stones to border a fireplace on an area of sloped bare rock face. It was 6 p.m. when I landed, after checking nine locations, not to mention eyeing all the shore line as I canoed five km.; after confirming this site would do, I turned on the SPOT™. Clear a spot for the tent, having to saw off two stumps, pull out some small regrowth pines and Labrador tea. Use axe and shovel to level some raised humps. Clear a path from shore to the tent, having to saw several down trees. Start a fire on the edge of the exposed rockface, then find enough stones to make a fireplace, to which I keep adding as I find more. Finally the blackflies get shooed away. Carry all gear up to tent site. Park canoe and paddles. Erect tent and place all gear in vestibules including Barrel-2, always amazed at how everything fits. Don't have time or energy to clear a site for Tarp shelter so Kitchen Barrel will go in front tent vestibule after supper. Unpack pots to get water boiling for mac and cheese, my favourite quick hearty meal. Put all sleep gear, belt bags, Rubber Pack inside tent. Just as about to sit by fire for supper, can see rain advancing down the lake. Aie! Add macaroni to boiling water. [I know that 2-1/2 cups of water is just right for the dish so don't have to decant any extra water.] Put the three pots of boiled water and Kitchen Barrel in the front tent vestibule, chair in tent. Get out canvas mat (to protect tent floor) and place it with pan, cup, cutlery and Birthday Cake protein bar for supper in tent. Get tent floor tarp laid out with sleep gear bag at back and Rubber Pack at front. Boots off. Add cheese to macaroni and place back into vestibule on top of the large pot of hot water to keep warm. Get all clothes off and gear organized. Hungry! Sitting in chair on floor of tent, finally time for supper - mint, mac and cheese, hot water, Birthday Cake protein bar, plus extra because no lunch today (quarter cinnamon bannock, cheese). Return to Lunch Bag extra food that I can't eat because I'm surprisingly full (almonds, two protein bars). Know I'm going to pay for the long portage, the falls, not drinking enough water, not eating lunch. Did use LifeStraw® water lots since getting to camp. Drank one canteen (one litre) on portage, not enough when I'm sweat-soaked. Take two anti-inflammatory naproxen with supper. All garbage from supper in small Ziploc®, placed in a large Ziploc® with the macaroni pot. Rinse off knife and spoon; dry them with toilet paper, plus pan that held cup with hot water. Place all in front vestibule. Get sleep gear laid out, ablutions done, PJ's on. My clothes are still damp from today's several rainfalls, but also from sweat of clearing and setting up camp. In bed by 10:15 p.m., very late! Very very weary and tired. Sleep well until 2 a.m., the first time I awake, exceptionally late for me, a testament to the exercise and naproxen. Try to kneel up to pee, but severe right leg cramp (the leg I hurt, or was it just cramping up?). Takes several minutes to resolve while rubbing the leg ... and moaning and groaning. Don't awake again till 5 a.m., seven hours sleep, my limit it seems."
July 16:
Up at 5 a.m., 15°C, very cloudy still, moderate wind. After getting a fire going, I clear a spot for the Tarp shelter. There is quite a pile of down wood that I have to move to make room, so I have lots of firewood. To anchor the Tarp I use solid dead trees including one big upturned tree root, as there are no large live ones. There are several spruce trees leaning to the ground along the path to the lake that provide boughs to make a mat beneath the shelter. Finally a very welcome breakfast at 9:40 a.m. - hot cinnamon bannock, parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles, red currants and hot water. I clear many down trees around the tent so I can get to the vestibules easier. At shore, I try fishing and catch a small 17" pike in the shallow water, then get the hook snagged. So now I have to launch the canoe to retrieve hook and line. Loading the canoe with gear, I head out to catch more fish. First I try trolling with no luck, getting snagged twice. Paddling up camp side of the lake about half km, casting a red and white spoon near shore, I catch a 26" pike and then a 28" one in two different spots. Thanks to the gods for two supper meals. There are not many good places to clean the fish so I cross the lake to a small rockface outcrop that works well. Back to camp by 2 p.m., I stoke the fire and saw some good firewood. At 3 p.m., 20°C, the sun shows for the first time and I have a much needed bath. At 3:30 p.m., I eat a very late lunch sitting on the boughs under the Tarp shelter, having to get up to stoke the fire periodically, a never ending job. By 5:30 p.m., in the company of some sun and blue sky, I eat supper - a mint, fried pike, bulgur, red currants, Birthday Cake protein bar, hot water. The fish was a crowded fit in the 10" Dutch oven. I am sitting in short shirt, boots untied, no hat, no bugs. The second serving of pike gets fried for tomorrow's refried supper. After doing chores, I prepack hoping to move on tomorrow, wishing for good enough weather. In bed by 8:30 p.m., my last hope is that with a limited food supply I will be able to canoe down the river relatively easily to reach the Churchill River and finish the planned trip. I know though that chances are slim that the constricted areas of the river shown on the map will be canoeable.