Sunrise at camp 14, July 17, beautiful, but not good omens: 3:44 a.m., 4:09, 4:22, 4:27, 4:45, 5:41 a.m..
Camp 14 tent site after breaking camp.
Camp 14 view of fireplace and Tarp shelter site (with mat of spruce boughs) just below the Bug Tent which is sitting on the tent site. I use the Bug Tent for breakfast because mosquitoes are very bothersome.
Canoe loaded to head down the river, gear covered with Tarp, optimistic that I will be able to canoe through the narrows to the next lake.
Approaching unnamed lake 11 river outlet, still hoping I can canoe down it, but optimism fading as from a distance it does not look promising.
Getting closer to the outlet, optimism gone for a quick passage to the next lake, unnamed lake 12.
The view down the river to unnamed lake 12. I have walked through about 500 metres of thick bush and over many stones and around boulders beside the narrow creek which falls several metres to the lake. Staring down the new lake for several minutes, I wish to keep going, but know there is not enough grub. I would need to cut another portage, probably one of many more, to finish the trip.
Camp 15, July 18 at 5:20 a.m., the contents of my belt bags laid out to substitute dry outer Ziploc® bags. The belt bags will be hung outside to dry (or at least get less wet).
Last thing after arising July 18 before leaving tent is to don my leather boots which are at least twice as heavy, soaked with water, after portaging and canoeing all day yesterday in heavy rain.
Everything is soaked, no dry wood, so I saw a few short 6" lengths of a fire-killed log to split dry kindling. A well aerated teepee fire soon has good flames going.
Yesterday's soaked clothes and outer bags and packs hang to start drying a bit. The jeans are very blue, the first time I have ever done laundry by walking in the rain, not a method I recommend. [At home Jeanette asks why these jeans are so clean and the others are so dirty.]
Tarp shelter not erected until July 18 because of the very late camp yesterday. Compared to when I camped here previously, it takes many extra ropes to string up the Tarp and to brace one slender anchor tree (because I set the Tarp back farther for more protection from the wind). As usual by this time in a trip, I have to tighten my belt more than when first starting.
Spruce branches placed on the wet muddy ground under the Tarp shelter. When it rains again, I string a clothesline under the Tarp to hang some wet clothes.
Photos taken throughout the day on July 18 at camp 15: 6:27 a.m., 1:35 p.m., 5 p.m. rainbow, 5:36 p.m. a second rainbow.
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Summary:
River exit of unnamed lake 11 is not canoeable so decide to go back to unnamed lake 10 because I do not have enough grub to continue. Steady heavy rain all day makes me soaking wet on the long portage. Set up camp late in the rain, shivering with cold. RAIN, RAIN, RAIN all day, probably the most miserable day I have ever had!
July 17:
From my journal at camp 15: "Writing at 6 p.m., 15°C, eating lunch and supper in tent, shivering, dressed in PJ's plus two long shirts, two pairs heavy socks, fleece sweater, sweat pants. Hungry - a mint, quarter cinnamon bannock with extra butter spread on top, three protein bars, cheese, almonds, cold canteen water, gum. Oh how nice it would be to have canvas Tent and wood stove. I got soaking SOAKING wet today portaging back to previous camp 13. It RAINED, RAINED, RAINED all day, probably the most miserable day I've ever had!"
"Up by 3 a.m. before Wilson (set for 3:30). Pack camp. Red sunrise, beautiful ... but ... 'sailor take warning'. Canoe to unnamed lake 11 outlet. It's a dead end for canoeing! There is a creek but overgrown and falls several metres through several winding cascades. Walk to the next lake, unnamed lake 12; will not be an easy portage to cut, lots big rocks, thick brush and bush. Aie! I wonder if there is a campsite here? [Now in hindsight I wish I had looked to see if there is a suitable spot for a camp. It is much easier and more secure to camp nearby so that I can walk to work cutting the trail.] Start paddling back to the last camp to set up again. I am talking to myself back and forth about whether I should stay or go, but say POI and switch directions to the portage to head back towards the cabin. Optimism only takes you so far. There is no way I have enough grub to continue down the river, with all the trail cutting necessary, not just to get to the next lake, but quite likely all the way down through many narrows shown on the map, especially if the forest fire ravaged much of it. Not only that but I am getting so tired of the conditions - rain with no stove. Get all the gear to the top of the high rockface trail about 100 metres, a steep climb up the 'stairs'. The canoe is the most difficult to move up. Haul with the painter which I have to tie off a few times to trees to make headway without losing ground. Just as I am about to begin the first long portage, rain starts. The red sunrise adage proves accurate. Very very cloudy but I continue, how bad can it get? ... BAD! Continues to rain all day, steadily, very heavy much of the time. I'm soaked through and through! Wear headnet all day, blackflies and mosquitoes bad even in the rain. Portage all five loads to the tall landmark tree, about 600 metres, the hardest section of the trail. Next carry four loads to the top of the big hill above unnamed lake 10, about 800 metres. Carry the canoe the entire way though, including the last 300 metres to the lake, as I'm getting weary (weaker?) and it's an effort to hoist the canoe in one lift. Then portage the remaining gear down the hill to unnamed lake 10, finally completing the 1860 metres. I'm squeaky wet, my feet sloshing in the boots. I'm carrying not just the usual weight but the additional water in clothes and external bags which adds up at one kg per litre. Canoe unnamed lake 10, discarding (well away from next camp) the pike that I fried last night; it was to be today's supper but I know tonight will be a cold meal and the fish will not keep any longer. I apologize profusely for having to throw it away, but at least it will be used by other creatures. Portage the 250 metres to unnamed lake 9.6, falling more now. Aie! Every time I walk back to pick up another load since the big tree, I feel chilled and shiver a bit, even though I am almost continuously walking. Have thought about continuing the 11 km to the cabin from the eight metre portage, another one km away, up to six hours of paddling. Even my younger self has to agree that's crazy talk, not a good idea in ongoing rain, canoe will take on a lot of water plus I may not be able to keep warm. So land at old camp 13. Unload, putting gear needed to set up camp by tent site. Pull canoe up onto old Tarp shelter spot to store some gear under. Worry how much the inner tent [breathable, not waterproof] will get wet as I erect it. Very strong onshore wind blows directly at tent site, not sheltered from that direction. Get tent up and gear inside, remainder under canoe. Not quite sure where all gear is specifically located but it is all either inside tent, the two vestibules or under canoe. Aie, a good way to misplace items, even lose them! Place some spruce boughs in front vestibule to lay wet clothes on (to keep them off the muddy ground) and to reduce tracking dirt into tent. Take off my wet uppers and leave in front vestibule. Then into tent and remove rest of clothing which goes into vestibule, including heavy boots. To make for a dry floor, have medium tarp from Miscellaneous Duffle bag and small tarp from Personal Pack in tent, which I spread out doubled from front door to within 12" (medium) and 24" (small) of back of tent, on top of the usual tent floor tarp. The floor slopes to the foot of tent, so any water will gather out of the way. Get PJ's on plus two long shirts, two pairs heavy socks, fleece sweater, sweat pants. Still shivering but not too bad as my teeth are not chattering. Place sleep gear bag in back corner and a few dry items in other. The canvas gun case is wet but gun itself not too bad; as usual in camp I place the gun in a silicone sleeve that I re-treat at home before each trip. Sit on chair with three closed-cell foam pads on seat. Get Lunch Bag from Rubber Pack. Have some butter from cooler. Eat combined lunch and supper. Stiff neck, so take two naproxen at 6:50 p.m.. Going to clean up gear, lay out sleep gear and then to bed. Still shivering a bit so definitely will crawl into sleeping bag soon. Will leave heavy socks on, maybe more clothes. A long miserable disappointing day. Someone told me they canoed the target river years ago, so unless they entered lower than unnamed lake 11, I never saw any evidence of a portage to unnamed lake 12, but considerable time and forest fire can change the landscape a lot. Michael (of the cottage where I left canvas Tent and stove) told me he wouldn't try the river. [In hindsight, he may have more strongly advised against it.] Probably could have ordered aerial photographs of the narrow portions. [But I have never done so, and I think it would unfairly bias me against planning such trips. I have always looked at the map thinking 'I would like to see if I can make my way from point A to point B'.] 'Off route' trips may be over for me. [Oh boy, as I am transcribing this journal entry, I had forgotten having written that last sentence. I do not feel that way now at home, my provisional plan being to complete this trip. It is a good one for the same reason I chose it this year, because of COVID-19 restrictions which will very likely be in place until 2022, until vaccinations reach a critical number, especially so worldwide because we are people of extensive travel in goods and person, all interconnected.] Sure have been thinking about flying out to end this trip, but don't know what Jeanette will think, having already spent out-of-budget for the motorboat. [Jeanette, rightly so, holds me to a budget, surprisingly large, on a need-to-have not nice-to-have basis. We do not know yet that Brian determines the motor damage is not severe and my cost is considerably reduced.] In bed by 7:30 p.m., sleep well. Rains early on in the evening. Very strong wind continues which will help dry underbrush."
July 18 Sunday:
From my journal: "Up by 5 a.m., with work to do before 9:25 a.m. breakfast. In the tent get some dry clothes from Rubber Pack - long T-shirt, heavy socks, handkerchief, bandana. Remove clothes bag from Clothes Pack (in front tent vestibule); get clean hat and undershorts and dirty (but dry) jeans and long shirt. Aah, feels so good to put on dry outfit, but boots and insoles are double weight with water; will need to change socks again later. Remove all items from the two belt bags and lay out in tent to dry (outside of their Ziploc® bags); will replace some really wet bags which will be burned. As usual hang up sleep clothes and pillow [a down jacket which does double duty stuffed into a pillowcase]. Finally I can step out of tent, then remove some items from the vestibule (Kitchen Barrel, heap of wet clothes, empty Clothes Pack). It is very cloudy with a moderate wind at 15°C, no rain yet, weather does not look promising at all. After using pruner to remove some lower branches and trim others on a pine tree in front of wind-facing tent, I hang up wet gear to start drying (clothes, paddle bag, empty Clothes Pack). On a similar tree beside the fireplace is hung the remainder (two empty belt bags, gun case, more clothes). Still need to get wet clothes from the Canoe Pack where I stuffed them last evening (bandana, handkerchief, gloves, headnet ... more?). Blackflies bad so need to start fire, plus I'm hungry and looking forward to hot water and bannock plus some extra food (after three? days recently with missed or late lunch and late supper). Have to find a solid dry (on the inside) pole to saw short 6" long sticks to split for kindling. The first pole I cut is punky but the next one okay. For tinder I use birchbark stuffed within a birchbark roll fetched from unnamed lake 10 yesterday (taken there from the cabin). A roll of birchbark lets me ignite the contents held to my chest turned away from the wind, then stand the kindling up tepee style to provide lots of aeration. Using pruner I add dead pine branches with lots of brown needles, which burn well even though wet, then place progressively larger wet sticks. Fetch a pile of wood, some quite punky, but once the fire is going well, anything will burn. After moving the canoe out of the way, I erect Tarp shelter and place Kitchen Barrel and Rubber Pack underneath. I struggle to get the Tarp up properly, as I situate it back one tree to place it more out of the wind, needing to use multiple extra ropes to string it up, complicated by the presence of guy ropes from the tent. Start to feel more organized, especially, because with limited time yesterday and so many wet items, they had been placed where I normally would not. Coolers are in camp under some down pines where I put them last night. Will see if I can dry packs somewhat, my objective is to dry as much gear as possible and then go back to cabin. 12:55 p.m., just taking a break as it is raining, 19°C, light wind turned now in the opposite direction. Need more firewood, a never ending task. Change socks after the first pair so wet from the soaked boots, one way to dry footwear. The wet socks, plus yesterday's very dirty pair (rinsed), are hanging on a line under the Tarp shelter, along with gloves and one wristlet. They are not going to dry outside because it keeps raining. Yesterday's clothes are 'drier' (less wet); they are now in a drawstring clothes bag (from the Wading Gear Bag) in the tent rear vestibule. All the gear from Canoe Pack and Miscellaneous Duffle are loose in the rear vestibule, relatively dry. The two empty packs hanging on pine tree by fireplace are 'dry enough'; bring them underneath the Tarp out of the rain. Have gathered wood multiple times. Aie! The two canteens are now replenished, but with hot (boiled) water. Boil another large pot full of raw water. Have to fetch more firewood soon as fire dwindling. Aie! 1:45 p.m., 27°C, a little bit of blue sky with some hot sun in a very cloudy sky, weird. I'm sweaty and take off long shirt to hang under the Tarp. Manage to get some firewood from beside the tent without hitting the tent or the guy ropes. Running out of nearby firewood without having to ferret in the wet brush. Move some spruce boughs into the Tarp shelter from near the fireplace to cover the wet ground which is a bit muddy. Patch 10 burn holes in the Tarp with duct tape. Repack Canoe Pack and Miscellaneous Duffle now that they are 'dry enough'. Time to sit and rest, weary. Have some packing to do in the tent, all the items from the belt bags. Have given up on drying yesterday's clothes any more so pack the drawstring bag in the Canoe Pack until getting a chance to dry properly. 2:15 p.m., falling asleep doing a sudoku. Consolidate all butter in one cooler, nine 454g blocks, which is correct as today ends week 7, enough left for nine more weeks. Sun is drying boots when I stretch my legs out on spruce boughs from where I sit under the Tarp. 3:45 p.m., 22°C, bright sunshine for a few minutes, now thunder and very grey skies. Do a puzzle. Time get lunch/supper ready. Really getting screwed up with meals, just wasn't hungry midday, after late breakfast. 4:25 p.m., supper in the rain (under the Tarp). Aah ... meant to pick red currants but forgot. Plan on leaving tomorrow so pack tools and pots. Everything is in the tent except the Kitchen Barrel under the Tarp shelter. Much to pack in the tent (belt bags, clean clothes bag). 4:45 p.m., thunder again. Do crossword. Still hungry so eat quarter cinnamon bannock, finally completing all of lunch with supper. 5 p.m., sudoku. Time to go to tent, early, but take chair and Writing Bag (which I usually prepack). Pretty rainbow (aren't they all) really low in the eastern horizon, hopefully a good omen, then a second one appearing a bit later, maybe even a better omen. Feels hot in tent, but only 22°C. Hang the three damp pairs of socks on tent clothesline. 7 p.m., everything packed, PJ's on. Try to do puzzle but falling asleep. Back of neck really aches. Time for bed. It rains a little and then calm all night."