A welcome warming campfire just before 4 a.m. at camp 4, after arising at 3 a.m. Two pots of previously boiled water on to heat.
Looking down the bay at 4:25 a.m. towards the lake exit and the creek of five rapids. The weather looks promising.
The fire, well extinguished with water at 6:40 a.m., after baking fresh cinnamon bannock for breakfast. The fire stick, Tarp shelter pole and one large firewood log stand up against the spruce tree.
The now vacant Tarp shelter with pots packed in the Kitchen Barrel which has the harness attached in order to carry to the canoe. Other gear used at breakfast, ready to be moved, is piled along the trail. I have removed the spruce branches that were under the Tarp.
Gear loaded into canoe, ready to paddle the 1-1/2 km to the rapids. Because it is a short distance, I do not cover with the Tarp.
Landing at the head of the five rapids where I unload for four carries on the 420 metre portage cleared yesterday. There is one less load because the canvas tent and stove were left at Michael's cottage. Two barrels were portaged yesterday. The loads range in weight from 36 to 48 kg, the heaviest being the Kitchen Barrel with Rubber Pack on top plus gun, nested on paddle bag between the two paddles, carried in one hand (actually rested on forearm).
After portaging all the gear and canoe, I manage to lay all the gear down quite nicely in preparation for heading down the four rapids. It is tied in with rubber ropes and bungee cords, not enough to hold in the unlikely event of the canoe tipping, but helps keep in place if it ships water. The only loose items are a sponge between my feet, one paddle, and me. The bailer is tied to the rear seat, an absolutely essential tool to empty the canoe of water if need be. I kneel down rather than sit so I have a lower centre of gravity and to better facilitate debarking if required.
A warming fire for a very welcome lunch after canoeing down the creek and being soaked in heavy rain. The ground under the spruce tree provides a dry place for me to change out of wading gear and to don clothes. The blue Miscellaneous Duffle Bag is standing up to help drain any water shipped onboard in the rapids. The bag is so named because it holds a miscellany of items: chair, fly swatter, nylon tent poles wrapped in the sleep underlay mat, Repair Kit, shower bag, spare rope, bath clogs, tarps, Tool Kit (bow saw, axe, pruner, shovel, axe file, spare saw blades, backup small saw, pee can).
Canoe and gear landed to drain excess water shipped in the rapids. I tip out 10 litres of water left in the canoe after bailing about 25 litres at the base of the rapids. The packs are standing against trees to help drain any water. Initially I think to camp at this spot, but the strong onshore wind and the exposed location make me decide otherwise.
Make the mistake at camp 5 of not looking overhead to check the trees before erecting tent. Dragging the tent yet again, but at least just a short distance, I saw the large dead very heavy overhanging birch tree branch. Then I clean the tent site a second time, before resituating tent at 6:30 p.m.
Looking back up the lake towards the creek outlet at 6:45 a.m. on June 14 in the rain.
A big fire against heavy rainfall.
June 14, the Tarp shelter provides a dry spot to eat breakfast, update my journal and wait out the rain which continues until 10 a.m..
June 15 at 7 a.m., some blue sky with a view down the lake away from the creek outlet.
By midafternoon on June 15 it starts to rain heavily. Flies, blackflies and mosquitoes are bothersome so put up the bug tent the first time this season.
**********************
Summary:
Breaking camp 4. Rain starts on last portage load of first rapids. Running the four remaining rapids in rain all the way. Having to wade above one rapids amongst hidden boulders. Canoe hits hard in rapids. Shipping litres of water into canoe. The fourth rapids turns canoe to finish stern first. Bailing and sponging water from canoe. Very heavy rain until landfall. Wet and chilled, stop to build warming fire at a possible but very windy campsite. Leaving windblown stop for much better location to end a long tiring day. Moving tent in order to fell a dangerous tree. First use of bug tent because of bothersome flies and mosquitoes. Distance travelled five km including a 420 metre portage and two km stretch of rapids.
June 13:
With air and sun freshened sleep gear, dry clothes and gorgeous bath, I slept well in the new tent location at camp 4. From my journal: "(Writing at 7:30 a.m. on June 14 under Tarp shelter. RAIN. Moderate wind. Very cloudy. Big fire. Big wood on. Eating breakfast while squirrel scolds me in tree above. Camp 5 is one km below the exit from the creek outlet, distance travelled five km including a 420 metre portage and two km stretch of rapids.) [Especially after travelling and having to set up camp, I am not able to update my journal until next day, sometimes even two days, because I have been too busy.] Up at 3 a.m. to Wilson; was sound asleep. Pack sleep gear and empty tent. Discovered something new this trip; place pee can upside down to drain on moss. Drains dry quite well. A small thing but always learning something new; this makes for a more pleasant smelling can, or should I say a less smelly one. [A pee can for use inside the tent at night is a necessity. It is no fun going outside with the bugs or rain in the middle of the night. Only one time years ago did I have to exit, very quickly after the first time experimenting with (under)cooked dry beans. I exploded just a few steps from the tent; the smell and noise probably scared animals far and wide.] Make cinnamon bannock with added seeds. Remove spruce branches from under Tarp after breaking camp; not good when left to rot if I want to camp here again. If it is in a very sunny place it's OK as it will dry for good kindling. Leave by 7:30 a.m.. Very cloudy and grey, doesn't look promising. Ask rain gods, if possible, hold rain till I make next camp, or at least till I get down the creek. Hope, after the 1-1/2 km canoe to the creek, to get the four loads portaged before rain, especially the steep 45° sideways-slanted slope on bare rock face which will become very slippery when wet. Starts to rain as I complete last carry on the 420 metre trail. Aie! Manage to load canoe safer for rapids by laying all three barrels down. Kitchen Barrel bottom forward in bow, Food Pack wedged sideways behind, two coolers under bow seat, two crisscrossed rubber ropes over Laundry Pail on bow seat and Personal Pack on top of Food Pack, bungee cords over two heavy barrels bottom forward behind bow seat, wedged lengthwise under the yoke thwart the Canoe Pack and Clothes Pack with Bug Tent on top, gun in its canvas case between the two packs, Miscellaneous Duffle next just in front of space for me to kneel, on top of which is Rubber Pack held in place by bungee cords, spare paddle wedged next to packs and side of canoe in front of me, bailer tied under back of stern seat, sponge on hull in front of me. As usual, I load heavier gear to starboard to balance my weight at the stern to port, as I routinely paddle on that side. I kneel in rapids for better control and to expedite exit if necessary. I will sit down on the seat in the pools between rapids. Raining constantly. Aie! Put on wading gear (neoprene socks, canvas high top shoes, nylon pants). Store jeans, undershorts, socks, belt, bear spray, handkerchief, bandana (all in a nylon bag) and boots (in its own nylon bag) in Rubber Pack. Hope not to have to wade, but a bonus is keeping clothes dry in the rain (except what I am wearing - short and long shirts, hat, two belt bags)."
Continuing from my journal: "Canoe pool below first rapids. Second rapids no problems; canoe hits one (two?) boulders moderately hard. Canoe second pool. Raining steadily, sometimes hard. Aie! Wear hat with chin/neck straps on; if I lose it here there will be no recovery! Approach the main third rapids in shallower water, entering on the right, should have been left to avoid boulders just under water and hard to see with the rain hitting the surface until right on them. At one point above the rapids canoe bottoms out and have to step out and grab gunwale to get over several boulders. Fortunately I can balance on a few boulders with relatively steady footing so I don't go above upper legs in water, but there are definitely deep spots I'm glad to avoid. Canoe down main rapids no problem but ship about five litres water when going hard over a rock ledge and into the water below. As I paddle down the third pool I use the sponge at my feet while seated to soak up water gradually making its way to the stern, a combination of rain but mostly from the rapids. The fourth rapids is a problem as I need to turn canoe to right but rapids wants to take me left. The rapids win and force the canoe to turn around backwards. I quickly turn myself to steer facing the stern and luckily don't capsize. Make it down the rapids but plunge into some turbulent water and ship about 20 litres water. Canoe hits hard in two (three?) spots, one on the side of the canoe and I wonder about the integrity of the canoe, especially the thinner side. Aie! Turn canoe bow first below the rapids in the fourth pool. Use bailer to remove most of the water, then sponge as I sit to gradually remove water that runs to the stern, a sponge full every few strokes. The fifth rapids is short and because of such high water it levels fairly flat. As I exit the creek, I continue to sponge as it steadily continues to rain, sometimes very hard." [Each rapids is at least 100 metres long.]
Continuing from my journal: "When I get to the lake proper, it POURS hard for several minutes, the rain drops large and bouncing off the lake surface (and me) making a noticeable heavy pitter-patter (which I would have preferred to view from under cover). I decide to land at the closest spot. It's not the most scenic spot because the area was burned in the last forest fire a few years ago. The very strong side wind and the rain makes me cold. The PFD worn since starting down the rapids helps provide warmth and shielding from the wind, as does the activity of paddling. Time 9 a.m.. Unload the canoe planning to camp here. Place all gear leaning against trees exposed to the wind to drain and dry a bit. Rain has lessened to light now. Haul canoe on shore, sloshing with about 10 litres of water which I turn out. I walk the site for camp options. The old existing fireplace is completely exposed to the strong wind, as are most of the tent sites. There is one spot between two low ridges that has some shelter where I could possibly erect Tarp shelter and build a fire. Off to the side behind some protection of scattered large surviving trees is a lone fully branched spruce tree, still dry at its base sheltered by its overhanging branches. Around it are bushy birch saplings about three metres high, regrown after long ago felling of the large parent trees by beavers. I have been walking in my wet wading gear and damp upper clothes and now that paddling has stopped I am shivering. Decide to build a fireplace on the wet duff in front of the spruce. Saw off the branches on that side of the tree to provide shelter and a dry spot. Carry several handfuls of stones from the scattered fireplace. As I walked around the site have picked up some garbage to burn. Use some birch bark and dry dead spruce branches cut off the tree to start a fire. There is lots of firewood, including many stubs of long ago sawed trees. Soon have a nice warming fire. The very strong wind blows the smoke towards the tree but I placed the fireplace to one side and there is a good dry spot against the tree on the other side relatively smoke free. Put on aluminum travel pot to boil for lunch. Start SPOT at 11:00. [Have been here two hours already, working all the time.] Before lunch I don my packed dry clothes and boots and replace my soaked shirts with two dry ones carried as spares in my Rubber Pack. Aah! So much better! You need to be uncomfortable to then truly appreciate the luxurious comfort of dry warm clothes, a warming fire, hot water and plain food. Have hung wet shirts, canvas gun case, nylon pants, neoprene socks, canvas shoes to dry a bit, exposed to the strong wind on a down dry dead spruce with lots of branches. Rain has stopped for now."
Continuing from my journal: "After eating and warming up, I realize I don't really want to camp here exposed to the very strong wind, which is from the prevailing direction. Waves on the rock face shore where I landed make it perilous to reload the canoe. So I drag the canoe across the ground to a small inlet, near the lunch spruce tree, that the beavers used as their harbour to extract felled birch. It's somewhat sheltered from the wind. Tie both painters to trees on shore to anchor the canoe well as I load. A longish walk with the two heavy barrels, but I don't bother with the harness. Reload as I did for the rapids, but now I can sit up. [After this I load the same way routinely so that the canoe is much more streamlined. Originally I was concerned about the integrity of the barrel gaskets when laid down but say "POI" (Tony's polite way of saying "piss on it"). Canoe against the wind but I quarter into it to get across to the leeward shore down the lake about one km, crossing relatively easily, more so because of the heavy load. With a light load would be difficult. Land at camp 5, one I have used before, a great location, lots of shelter and firewood, much better tent and campfire sites. Unload again, coolers to a deep moss "fridge". Send second SPOT at 2:15 p.m.. [My contacts may wonder why two SPOTs from different locations, but the important thing is for them to know where my camp for the day is, the latter message.] Nice day now. Get tent up and gear laid out. Tarp shelter up, using an extra rope on one side to raise the Tarp properly. Depends on specific location of anchor trees; every site is different. Start fire and get water pots on to boil. Go for nice cold bath; feels great! As I walk back from bath happen to notice a large long dead overhanging branch of a big birch tree right above the tent. Not safe. My fault for not looking before setting up tent. Sad to say not the first time! Aie! Barry, Barry, Barry! Momentarily think of leaving as is, but if that branch falls it could wreck the tent ... and wreck me. So ... sigh ... unstake and untie tent ropes, remove inside gear. Drag tent far enough away ... and then a bit more. Hopefully not bending poles again. [At the previous site, after the long drag, I had to straighten the aluminum poles, but not perfectly.] The problem is the tree branch grew in a way that favoured falling the wrong way, towards where the tent sits now. Saw a big kerf out of the side I want the branch to fall. Luckily am able to cut far enough through from the other side and with a big effort shove it the way I want, over the empty tent site. Whew! The saw binds in the cut, so am fortunate to be able to shove hard enough to retrieve the blade without breaking. To clean up the fallen branches, have to saw the big one in half as it is too long and heavy to move. Then drag tent back, restake and retie. Put gear back. Aie! But a safer aie! By this time, getting late so have late supper. In bed by 8:30 p.m., no time or inclination to write journal. Very stiff neck so I took two naproxen at supper. [Do not ingest any NSAID on an empty stomach. Do not lay down for at least 30 minutes after taking; I did once, and was curled up in agony in the fetal position for half an hour.] Slept well."
Sunday June 14:
After sleeping in, I arise at 6 a.m. to rain that continues until 10 a.m.; then it becomes sunny and clear, temperature rising to 26°C until midafternoon when it is very cloudy. Today I catch up on chores: a big journal entry to do for yesterday, mark up map (with camp and distance information), check sighting of gun, clean lenses with "Pledge® Cleaner Wipes" (eyeglasses, camera viewer, compass), fetch firewood, replace discharged camera battery, sort both belt bags, bath, manicure (ie, trim nails), trim facial hair (As I progress, hair grows places it never used to.), collect salad greens, aliquot grub for this week, check satellite phone for messages. Walking about 400 metres from camp, I collect fireweed tops for salad in an area of bush burned a few years ago. I try a different set of ear plugs for bathing that Steven gave me; they promptly fall out and float away in the lake when I have my bath; my ears seem to be anti-earplug. To check the gun for accuracy, I fire the .22LR at a small circle of sawed off pole sitting on a stake in the ground at 10 metres; when the rifle sights okay it also indicates a shotgun slug will too, as I only use both at short range. Mosquitoes and flies are a bit bothersome and I spend some time on the more exposed point where I landed and parked the canoe; the refreshing breeze there helps keep the bugs at bay while I do a puzzle and read some "Reader's Digest". Two red-necked grebes in my bay constantly clamour in their loud whinnying raucous trill. Thunder and light rain start at bedtime with a strong wind, continuing until midnight.
Jeanette sends a text message on Saturday: "OK. No fires. Rain 4cast til Thur. Cool here." Text messages sent to me must be limited to 100 characters; anything more in one message will not be received. The "OK" means everything and everyone at home is okay. "No fires" signifies no fires that should affect me. Interestingly the weather forecast for the two closest communities is the same as last week, more rain which is proving true. I am unable to access voicemail today (because of a technical issue), but the understanding with my contacts is not to use the service, and to send me a text on Saturday to phone them if they need to talk to me. The reason I check voicemail is that doing so notifies the server that I am online so it will send any text messages; otherwise I would have to stay online for too long. Satellite phone service is expensive so we minimize its use. Also, getting and keeping connectivity using a handheld device is often challenging. Using the phone requires a clear line-of-sight to low-flying satellites, so I must be in an open area, beside a water body is usually best. It is necessary to keep an eye on the strength of the satellite signal and to often walk around searching for the best direction and space. Luckily there is a free web service for someone texting me, which includes an automatic character counter. I only subscribe for the canoe season so I get a new phone number (new SIM card) each year. Typically I send a text message since it requires only one way (asynchronous) connectivity for a short time. Voice, including voicemail, requires two-way (synchronous) connectivity which can be hard to maintain. Of course, the problem with text is that there is no confirmation that the recipient receives it. So if my message is important, I need to follow-up with a phone call (the usual case because I do not routinely send any messages).
June 15:
The day opens clear and sunny, temperature rising to 24°C by noon, so I hang sleep gear to air and dry. While gathering two servings of fireweed tops, one for tomorrow, I see a cute chipmunk as it disappears amongst boulders along the shore. All chipmunks are cute, so I suppose saying so is redundant. Animals are chatting all around me - loons, squirrels, crows, ravens, warblers, a kingfisher, mergansers, a pair of local Canada geese that probably have a nest nearby, the two grebes. At 2 p.m. the wind switches direction bringing heavy rain and cooling back to the 15°C of this morning. Luckily I have a nice bath beforehand and barely make it back to the Tarp shelter before the downpour. Flies, mosquitoes and blackflies are bothersome so I erect the bug tent for the first time this season. As Tony reminded me, I made sure to bring the bug tent, after accidentally leaving it in my vehicle last season. The bug tent fits nicely under half the large Tarp, still leaving lots of room for storage and chores. I erect the Tarp much higher than I used to, as high as I can reach at the front ridge, 2.3 metres (7'6"), and waist height at the rear, one metre (3'6"), so there is room to stand and to place the bug tent. The weather clears by 4:30 p.m. but the bugs continue to annoy and I stay in the bug tent for supper and until bedtime, doing several puzzles, even solving a "hard" sudoku. Yesterday was very busy so the nice restful day today feels great. Pre-packing and to bed by 8 p.m., I wish for a good travel day tomorrow.