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The following photos are of camp 11 (August 17 - 18):
06:46 August 17, canoe loaded to go the 100 metres across the river to start portaging.
The rock shore beside the canoe includes a patch pockmarked with small shallow holes probably created by some small creatures eons ago in underwater sediment.
A feather for daughter Andrea, I think bald eagle.
A beaver scent mound beside my new trail extension. Beavers using the surrounding area as their home make these mounds to mark territory as their own, announcing to other beavers including migrating youngsters to move on somewhere else.
Loading the canoe at the 'safe' lower end of the portage beside the waterfalls. The metal beams and rods are remnants of the temporary power plant of the early 1900s that generated electricity for transport many kilometres to build the permanent station at Island Falls on the Churchill River to supply mines in Flin Flon, Manitoba. The residents of the nearby Cree Sandy Bay community reestablished their village closer to the proposed site to assist in construction. Note the exposed pilings in the lake bed due to the low water level.
Looking down the bay towards its outlet to the main lake, my direction of travel.
The view back to the very steep shore directly below the lower end of the portage through the centre trees. At the top of the shore I segued 20 metres to the outlet of the small falls on the right for a safe launch spot. This photo better shows the steepness ... but you have to be there to really appreciate it.
A good illustration of the drop in water level, two hours farther along after stopping for half hour breakfast.
13:51 August 17, approaching an island targeted as a possible campsite. There are three areas that would serve but the downside is they are only reachable by a long winding steep climb not desirable for carrying gear or water. A family of three river otters were going to land before seeing me; I first notice their distinctive warning snorts about my presence.
16:08 August 17, after giving up finding a suitable island campsite, my mainland tent site of camp 11 on moss torn up by otters. I have to remove several stinky sticky scats before pitching the tent.
A contemplative viewpoint down the lake towards Manitoba.
07:42, 08:01, 14:37 August 18, smoke lingers all day.
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The following photos are of camp 12 (August 19):
05:54 August 19, the sun just rising, a red-orange ball through smoke; a dragonfly participates in the photo. Looking 500 metres across the bay I see a suspicious black dot that moves along the shore, a black bear. It walks along shore for about 100 metres eventually heading into the bush at a run.
07:32, canoe loaded with gear to paddle into the bay for the day. This shore is directly in front of camp but is not good for parking the canoe which I do around the corner at a leveller location. Note the painters are tied to rocks on shore. The plan is to canoe the two km to the portage that cuts across land to the Churchill River. The portage is a long 2½ km one that I last checked in 2022. At that time I did not feel up to clearing the many down trees to continue my trip across and then down the Churchill River. This year I am determined to complete that trip. I do have reservations about leaving camp for an extended time but after checking two unsuitable islands I settle for this old Cree cabin site long ago consumed by wildfire.
As I enter farther into the bay I paddle through very meager growth of wild rice, just a few short stalks. To get through a narrows where I had thought to fish I have to pick a route with enough water to float the partially loaded canoe having to backtrack once. Shortly after I reach as far as possible without even getting near the end of visible water. Beneath me is a bed of weeds; any farther and the canoe would ground. Gulls and terns wheel around me voicing there displeasure at the intrusion. I do not see the rafts of ducks that I expected. Having only gone about half the two km distance from camp to the portage area my younger self momentarily thinks about walking along shore; we would have to find a place to land then see if it would be possible to walk to the portage. But even he says POI, a 2½ km portage is bad enough, especially one that needs significant clearing, let alone adding an extra one km that might not even be doable. Aie!
Turning back I head to camp. Having decided to break camp and move on I hope to stay overnight at an empty outfitters cabin where I stopped years ago that was in good shape. The photo above is of the tent site, the now packed torn up otter-marked moss area.
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The photos below are of camp 12 taken early next morning August 20. It was a late camp on August 19. I struck out after checking multiple possible campsites. The previous clean cabin is now dilapidated, the property littered with garbage, left instead of taken out even though now lighter than on arrival. Aie! This island proved to be the best option with its extensive exposed rock shore due to the low water levels. Walking along the inside of the bush I found a levelish place amongst tall and fallen spruce trees. Sawing, pruning and axing provided a tent site that looked level but proved not and required using a pack at the foot of the bed to keep me in the tent. Planning on eating in the tent after dark I gave up to weariness and just went to bed, sleeping remarkably well.
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Summary:
Camp 11: Fruitless search for an island camp close enough to a 2½ km portage crossing to the Churchill River. Camp 11 is a mainland site two km from the long portage reached after a 12 km paddle including the 170 metre portage past the waterfalls. Smoky conditions, sun a red ball even high in the sky. Extremely low water levels make for poor fishing, only catching one small pike. I remark "Think I'm heading the 'wrong way' - not enough water or fish.".
Camp 12: Bear runs along shore across from camp. August 19 I can only paddle within a disappointing one km of the long portage, the water level being so low. The usual abundant wild rice crop almost nonexistent (on return home found to be widespread due to predation by wild rice moth). Momentarily think to try to land and walk along the shore to check the portage but decide that is crazy talk. Returning to camp 11 I decide to move on planning to stop at an old outfitters cabin. That too proves disappointing as it is another party site dilapidated and littered with garbage. A nearby island proves to be unsuitable. The all morning wind becomes strong, a battle to make headway, trying to blow me into shore as I struggle to pass several islands. Finally arrive at an island I was 90% sure had a good campsite but proves me 100% wrong. However I can clear a decent tent site in the bush for a late camp forgoing food for sleep.
Camp 11 August 17:
Up to the alarm at 04:30 I load the canoe to paddle the 100 metres across the river to the 170 metre portage past the waterfalls. The 45° descent at the lower end works well, even carrying the canoe all the way. I stop near the outlet of the big bay in some shade to have breakfast. Paddling is pleasant with only a light headwind, a sunny day with white cumulus and little smoke.
The plan is to use a portage that cuts across land to the Churchill River from Taylor Bay in Sisipuk Lake. The portage is a long 2½ km one that I last checked in 2022. At that time I did not feel up to clearing the many down trees to continue my trip across and then down the Churchill River. This year I am determined to complete that trip. In 1991 son Steven and I used the trail when it was in perfect shape still accessed by locals who used it in the old-fashioned way of walking (before the advent of ATVs). I want to find an island campsite within reasonable distance to be able to commute back and forth while clearing the trail. I have identified two islands as possible campsites, one four km from the end of the portage's bay, the other one km farther. I refer to the first as 'small-head isle' and the other as 'big-head isle' because on the map they have the shape of heads complete with 'ears' (at least to my imagination). They are farther than desirable because the bay is subject to strong winds that could make it difficult or impossible at times to get back to camp. The reason I prefer an island is to reduce the risk of a bear intruder when leaving camp for the day, possibly longer. I would take enough gear and food to bivouac overnight if necessary. Paddling past big-head I first investigate little-head. Going right around it I stop in two places but it is not suitable. I eat lunch at one of the 'ear' projections. Heading back to the other island, I first hear the warning snorts of three otters close to shore who appear to have been going to land before my appearance. Landing at two places I identify three possible campsites all needing some clearing but would be suitable. However all require a difficult steep and circuitous long climb from shore; the rock would be slippery if wet.
Dithering yes or no to stay I decide to camp at a mainland old Cree cabin site only two km from the end of the bay. I have reservations about leaving camp on the mainland for an extended time but after checking the two unsuitable islands I settle for this location long ago consumed by wildfire. I have paddled three extra km checking both isles. The site appears untouched since last camping here in 2022 except otters have torn up the mossy tent area and soiled it with several stinky sticky scats that must be removed. It is a good campsite but exposed to winds coming many km across the lake directly into the bay. Landing in front of camp I unload gear. I first try parking the canoe amongst the boulders on shore but it is difficult to bring up over many boulders and could get blown away. Instead I haul the canoe across the rocks to place on a level grassy area around the corner, not an easy task and I shudder about the grating of the keel on the stones. I will not manhandle the canoe there any more, instead paddling it around the corner for an easier landing; unfortunately though it is twice as far to carry gear having to cross multiple boulder impediments so I still will land first at the closer shore to load or unload. Mosquitoes are bothersome in camp but moving to eat beside the fireplace I catch more helpful breeze. Camp set up and despite a very busy day I am on bed by 20:00. I sleep okay but the bed slopes too much and have to place pack at its foot. Distance travelled is 12 km including the 170 metre portage and three km extra checking for a campsite.
Camp 11 August 18 Sunday:
Temperature on arising is 12°C, 16°C at 08:25 breakfast with a cool north breeze; the warmth of fire feels good. The water level is markedly low by at least two metres as at the falls. There is visible smoke and its odour as I look east several km all the way into a bay in Manitoba. By 08:50 the wind has switched to the east bringing in thicker smoke with stronger smell, now obscuring the bay into Manitoba, visibility less than one km. There is lots of cloud but hard to tell how much is smoke. Jeanette's text message: "OK. No fires 4u. Lots smoke. All west. MB OK." The wind may be playing silly beggars, pushing smoke from the west and then returning it when wind direction changes. From across the bay along the far shore Canada geese are calling in a disturbed manner. One group flies off leaving some still there; I have seen this type of activity before when one member of a family is injured and the remainder are reluctant to leave. Animals are more complex than given credit, just as we humans. After lunch I load canoe to go fishing. Crossing the 500 metre stretch I find no geese; they have moved on when I did not notice, either flying or paddling. It is a hard paddling against the east crosswind. Even a light wind from the east has a long stretch of many km to gather momentum into my bay. If facing it such as I would when returning the two km from the long portage at the end of the bay it can be a tough slog, easy to become windbound. The water on the far shore is shallow as probably all along the bay, no reeds, just weeds below the surface that continually clog the lure and make paddling difficult. Once free of the weeds, trolling back towards camp I finally land a small 16" pike. I also try fishing in the little bay beside camp with no luck; shallow too, a beaver lodge sits high and dry out of the water near shore. While paddling I spot a pelican, two kingfishers, a flock of about 20 ducks and near the beaver house a large shorebird scolding me incessantly as I must be near its nest. From across the lake I hear the loud strident braying call of two red-necked grebes. Giving up on catching any more fish I am glad I kept the small pike which I almost released. A lot of work for that one fish; one or two more would have been nice. Unless a quite large fish I typically fillet all the flesh from a pike including the belly and back which some people leave. Pike chowder supper is good and well earned; I almost added a can of sardines but it proves adequate without. The wind forces me to rejig the Tarp shelter ropes and tie down the windward side to a log to keep it from constantly flapping. When the sun has been visible even high above it is a red ball illustrating that smoke is present well up into the sky; it is living up to Jeanette's forecast. Prematurely dark by 18:30 before early bedtime I rinse my face with handkerchief, no bath today with the cool wind. Away from the shore's wind the mosquitoes are quite bothersome. I fall asleep vowing to at least paddle to the end of the bay and walk the portage even if not feasible to be cleared.
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Camp 12 August 19:
Up by 05:30, I pack the canoe to head to the long portage. I am greeted at shore by an otter who 'stands' well above the lake surface to check me out. In addition to the usual gear taken if fishing I add the Bug Tent; if windbound I can set it up under the medium tarp (to protect from rain). Having to bivouac without a shelter from bugs can be a miserable night. I plan on fishing at the narrows on the way back hopefully with better luck than yesterday. After eating breakfast beside the canoe I leave by 07:30. When I get to the narrows it is obvious I will not be fishing here; it is just a very small shallow channel; I have to pick a route with enough water to float the partially loaded canoe having to backtrack once. Paddling farther I am soon poling on the lake bottom covered with a mat of plants. There are only a few short stalks of rice. When Steven and I were here in 1991 after portaging from the Churchill River the bay was packed full with rice all the way past the narrows. Even standing we could not see beyond the tall plants. [After returning home I discover that failed rice crops are widespread this year, apparently due to wild rice moth larvae eating the growing plants, infestations being worse in hot dry years.] There are many large shorebirds that give me a well choreographed fly by twice, while voicing their pwee, pwee, pwee call. I get to a location where any farther the canoe would be bottoming out; paddling is more poling with the weeds clinging to the paddle. I am probably still one km from the end of the bay and cannot even get near the end of visible water. Having only gone about half the two km distance from camp to the portage area my younger self momentarily thinks about trying to find a place to land on shore then see if it would be possible to walk to the portage. But even he says POI, crazy talk, a 2½ km portage is bad enough, especially one that needs significant clearing, let alone adding an extra one km that might not even be doable. And I do not know how far back along the shore I would have to go to manage to land. Aie!
At camp again by 08:30, disappointing as it is, I decide to move on, packing and leaving much later than usual by 10:30. I hope to stay overnight at an empty outfitters cabin where I stopped years ago that was in good shape. Failing that perhaps I can camp on the nearby island. From my journal: "Heading down a kilometres long stretch of open water extending from Manitoba. Travelling east I am faced with a moderate east, south or southeast wind. Sometimes seeming to be east and south at the same time. I think caused by the funnelling effect of various channels around islands. Hard paddling. Sisipuk Lake water level definitely seems to have taken a disproportionate drop from the falls on towards the Churchill River. Even more convinced now it is indeed at least two metres down. Think I'm heading the 'wrong way' - not enough water or fish. Aie!" I stop for a well earned lunch break on the south shore of the long channel. Directly across is a quite large island where David Thompson, the world's greatest land geographer, wintered in 1795. Where the channel continues on into Manitoba is the target cabin. From my journal: "Should have known. Disappointing! It's a mess. Cans and other garbage all over inside and out. Cabin damaged and in disrepair inside and out. Another party site. What a difference to when I stopped a few years back when it was in good shape and clean. Next possible campsite is the nearby island. Unfortunately its two visible shores are steep with thick bush above. I stop to walk across the isle and all the way around to no avail. Trekking along shore is relatively easy, more exposed due to the low water levels. A local flock of Canada geese rise honking in alarm from the small bay on the far side. This would be a hard luck campsite."
From my journal: "Paddle out of my way beside shore at two isles that I can tell from the canoe aren't suitable. At one I see a mink swimming along shore making better time than I. Paddling on I hope to find a decent site. Quite sure I won't till the north side of a largish island that straddles the Saskatchewan Manitoba border. Seem to recall remarking years ago that it would be a good campsite. I say out loud 'Come on campsite, come on campsite. 90% sure it's good but could be wrong.' Weary and getting late. Need to stop. Hard time paddling against strong SE wind. Interesting today the wind seems stronger than the waves indicate and gusts make it worse. There is some tight hard paddling past isles. Of course I'm heading 'there' but wind is pushing me from the side wanting to crash me into the shore 'here'. One island am lucky to make it past a point, just barely! Way to close for comfort. Visions of grounding on an unseen boulder or crashing into boulders and having to jump out to try to pull canoe onto steep rocky shore. Some places paddling faster than one stroke per second to make any headway. Aie!"
Finally I reach the 'good' island and get to the sheltered north side. There is extensive exposed rock shore, much more than I remember. It more gradually slopes up to the bush better than anything seen today. A bit confused that I am 100% wrong about the 'good' campsite; later I realize I was thinking of an isle on a previous lake! Stopping at a place where it is less steep I walk into the bush along the edge to find a tent site. The spruce bush is mature and thick with many large fallen trees. Walking about 50 metres I decide on a 'levelish' spot after checking there are no dangerous overhanging trees. It is already 18:30 when I activate the SPOT™. I clear a trail up into the bush with saw and axe. Next I create a tent site by pulling about 40 small spruce, throwing off logs and branches, pruning some standing trees, levelling moss with axe head. Nearby I limb the lower trunks of two spruce trees near shore to tie the heavy barrels. I toss sleep gear inside tent and store remainder in rear vestibule. Some gear is stored beneath the canoe pulled up on the rock shore. I shudder as the canoe bottom takes a beating dragging over the rock, after trying to carry it up the slope; two people could manage okay or me if fresher. Sweat-soaked, I have been drinking from LifeStraw® a lot but never seems to be enough. I know it is a 30°C plus day. Thank goodness the bugs are not bad. From my journal: "Have had eat-in-tent supper plans that keep changing - sardines with tomorrow's breakfast food, then sardines with tomorrow's lunch food, then tomorrow's lunch and no smelly sardines, with the intent then to eat oriental noodles for breakfast or lunch. In the end so weary, tired and hot I opt for no food, just bed. Only need to use headlamp to set time on clock which despite efforts keeps gaining. In bed by 21:30. Long hard day, unexpected. No sense staying at previous camp 11 - no portage, no fish. Would like to say bed was one of the most level ever, but no, slopes down too much so have to place pack at foot. Sleep okay, most of night laying on sheet, no PJs the first while." Distance travelled against a strong head-and-cross-wind to camp 12 is a tiring 14 km including the two km to check the long portage.