Sunrise through smoke haze at horizon July 17 at 04:32.
The south tailwind keeps up as I head down the long lake through some islands where I mistakenly head into the bay beside the outlet spending an extra hour and having to buck against the wind to get back on course.
Perhaps it was opportune to have got off track as I encounter a solitary moose cow along the shore. She madly swims up the shore and unexpectedly turns into the lake to cross to an island instead of going to the mainland. Awesome!
Finally hitting the target into the channel to the narrows.
Less than an hour after the first moose encounter, just after getting into the narrows, another moose sighting this time a cow with her calf. Now I do not feel so bad about having taken extra time to get on the proper course.
The narrows were burned in 2022 and fireweed in bloom is thick on the shores.
Moving down the lake smoke is evident at horizons.
Approaching the lake outlet I tie up above the rapids to walk inland along the river to make sure there is a safe place to land just above the main rapids.
At the campsite, I cannot safely turn the canoe to back into shore so I paddle straight into shore where I have to clamber over the load to tie up. I have travelled 24 km plus an extra two km taking the wrong heading.
A nice spot to camp between the rapids and the steep bank to the bush above. The portage trail extends along the river (behind the Bug Tent and Tarp shelter).
Nearby a bear has recently scuffed up a big ant hill, also leaving its scat. I chuckle when I say out loud "black scat from a black bear".
Smoke which was evident at horizons yesterday is visible up close on July 18 both in the morning and at sunset when the sun is a red ball through the trees across from camp.
Not being able to fish from shore without getting snagged I prepare the canoe to go out into the stream and up the far shore of the lake.
A nice 18" walleye for supper.
Stinging nettles found near camp. The leaves are tipped with sharp hairs containing formic acid causing itching and burning. They must be boiled before eating so I do not bother picking.
The bugs are terrible, biting through my light shirt when it is stretched across skin, especially along the portage trail. I use a leafy alder branch to serve as a switch to shoo them away while walking whether carrying a load or not. Typically the 'wristlet' (a cut-off men's nylon sock) laps over my glove; it is useful also to block sun when paddling.
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The following photos are of 11 areas of the 600 metre portage trail that require clearing of down trees. Photos 'before clearing' are followed by those 'after clearing'. One tree is too large to remove from the path but the branches are sawed off flush with the trunk so I can shinny over it without getting hung up.
The photos below are of wet muddy areas of the portage but no clearing required.
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Summary:
Two awesome sightings of three moose. Spend two hours clearing 600 metre portage trail. A moose crossing river at camp wakes me. Hot, no wind, humid and smoky conditions make for sweat-soaked clothes. Bugs are terrible, having to contend with biting flies and mosquitoes all the time, worst when bathing. Use head net most of the time and Bug Tent for all meals and some chores. Bug Tent littered with dozens of bodies of mosquitoes and flies fallen to the fly swatter. Mosquito coil clears tent of mosquitoes and is also useful in the tent vestibule just before retiring for the night. Catch first walleye. Travel 24 km plus an extra two km taking the wrong heading.
July 17:
Up before the 03:30 alarm the canoe is all packed by 05:30 and away by 06:00 my best time so far. Fortunately the light south tailwind continues increasing to moderate for the rest of the day. I stop at an island near the next narrows for breakfast.
From my journal: "Appears I wasn't minding my heading as I venture east of the entrance to the narrows. Aie! End up somewhat confused and upset with myself. Lose one hour paddling an extra two km back against the now brisk wind. My stupid mistake! Not paying enough attention to island markers indicating the correct direction. The good news is I see a cow moose in the water cooling off obviously enjoying herself submerging completely then rising to flap her long ears and vigorously rolling her head, water flying everywhere. I keep paddling till she sees me, swimming away up the shore before clambering out and trotting away. The bush beside her is black, bare of greenery, burned in 2022. Paddling away I realize my mistake of again going in the wrong direction. Frustrated with myself I decide to paddle back up the lake along the west shore to orient myself. Will make darn sure I'm above and west of the narrows before turning back along the shore to be sure to reach the proper opening. As I paddle I see the moose out of the bush in the lake. She has decided to swim east towards more hospitable forested landscape. Seeing me she keeps swimming at a brisk rate and will soon disappear into the bush on the nearest island. Oriented now I turn and paddle along the shore which must lead to the narrows. Success! In a short while after entering the channel heading north down the lake I spot another cow moose in the water along the shore! This time with a calf. Like the first sighting I have to paddle off course towards them. They eventually see me and swim along the shore before climbing out and into the fire ravaged bush. I can see them moving inland for awhile through the open landscape. Flies in the dozens have been following me since entering the narrows, buzzing me incessantly."
Moving on I eventually stop for lunch at a cabin where it is a very hot 30°C but at least inside I have a reprieve from bugs. From my journal: "Continue on moving briskly with the help of the moderate tailwind, occasional waves breaking beside me. I know I'm making good time but paddling down the centre of the waterway for best advantage of the wind it seems I'm moving so slowly. I'm far removed from the shore where I would get the impression of speed in relation to the shoreline." Stopping for a break where the lake narrows again I gather some shaded fireweed leaves and a bunch of alum root seed pods for supper salad. I note on the ground there are winter woodland caribou droppings.
Finally reaching the north outlet of the long lake I stop along the shore where safe to do so just above the rapids. The shoreline is water submerged in most places at least 10 metres inland. Tying the canoe I pack loose items in the Rubber Pack before carrying it to the campsite to check for a landing spot. From my journal: "Could have canoed to it but landing directly at camp is one try when fully loaded. If not open enough to land I can't go back and would have to exit the canoe for a wet inconvenient landing. There's a big heavy waterlogged tree along shore which would have made landing difficult so glad I checked." After pulling the log out plus another small one, leaving my pack, I walk back to the canoe. Paddling slowly as close to the shoreline as the rocks let me, when I reach the landing I paddle rapidly against the current into shore bow first. The spot is too narrow to pull the canoe between a large tree and a fallen one. So after clambering over the load to exit the canoe onto the soggy shore I push the canoe out and pull it in where I should have landed. After partially unloading I activate the SPOT™ at 16:30, having made better time than anticipated given at least one hour delay taking the wrong heading. I have travelled 24 km plus an extra two km taking the wrong course. Wearing the head net since landing I park the canoe with some gear under then erect the nylon tent in what I think is a level enough area. Mosquitoes and several types of flies are bad. Taking the head net off before entering the tent to unpack and lay out sleep gear I swing my hat to clear away some of the bugs from me and the doorway. Of course several mosquitoes do enter the tent with me so I start a mosquito coil as I exit. After tying the two heavy barrels I set up the Bug Tent for supper and toss in all required gear; this is predicated on making sure I have assembled everything I will need. I have a 'system' for placing gear in the Bug Tent; small items go under an unzipped lower zipper; chair and I go in after removing head net and performing camper's dance. Of course some bugs get in so first task is to use fly swatter. Before entering the Bug Tent I light another mosquito coil this time in the front tent vestibule; I did this once at the previous camp and it helps reduce the number of mosquitoes getting into the tent when I enter for the night. Any large flies that enter have to be killed with the fly swatter; I do not worry about a few blackflies as they do not bother me, spending their time once inside trying to get out the peak of the tent. Supper done and gear stowed back to the tent for the night I hang up socks as usual but also sweat-soaked shirt and undershorts and rinsed handkerchief. A bath would have been ideal but I checked along the shore and at least 10 metres inland has been flooded with only a few small dryish humps showing; tomorrow I have to find a bathing spot. No clothes on I am laying on the bedsheet by 20:45. From my journal: "During night I realize the 'level' bed spot ... isn't. I and sleep gear have slid off the sleep pad. Turning on the headlamp I move the entire bed to the centre of tent right up against all the laid out gear, sleeping better after."
July 18:
Up by 05:00, I exit the tent to be startled by several ducks taking off from the river. They often float downstream beside camp and then fly back towards the lake. I have a bit of diarrhea that I attribute to not drinking enough yesterday when paddling long distances in hot weather; even though drinking lots at suppertime I did not pee much last night. The sun is a ruby red ball as it rises through trees, smoke is evident in the air and smoke smell is strong. Camp is shielded by the side of the river valley and tall conifers so hopefully it gets some sunshine later making its way through the smoke. There is no breeze and bugs are bad. Wearing head net I erect clothesline, Tarp shelter and Bug Tent. I try the latter under the Tarp but too dark with shade so move it into the open. Breakfast and lunch are taken in the Bug Tent surrounded outside by dozens of mosquitoes. Usually I restock my Lunch Bag and aliquot grub for supper outside but even that is done in the Bug Tent. The Lunch Bag contains breakfast and lunch food for two days in the event that I have to eat a cold supper in the tent or on travel days I may be short of time to refill it. In the Bug Tent I also update my journal and do some puzzles. I use the multitool to make two more holes in the new leather belt to tighten it properly as already I am noticing a shrinking waistline. The inner walls of both the tent and the Bug Tent are progressively getting more fly swatter blood spots from mosquitoes whose last meal was me. Thank goodness though for Bug Tent and fly swatter.
After lunch it is time to get dressed to do some more outside chores. Checking for a bathing spot I decide it is probably best to enter the river where I landed the canoe, not ideal but as good as possible without walking much farther away; it will also do to launch the canoe for fishing. Because distances are not visible from camp I walk south to reach an open spot where I can see up the lake. Wildfire smoke occludes the horizons and is obvious in the air up close. On the way I spot where a bear has dug up at least six ant mounds. Nearby is dark black scat ... I chuckle when I say out loud 'black scat from a black bear'. Anxious to see if the portage is passable I head down the 600 metre trail. I am concerned that with the high water levels it may be submerged. Where the river overflows it runs mostly beside the trail for a ways before heading back to the stream. The trail there is under some water. The path is wet and muddy in places but walkable. Obviously the peak flood occurred previously. There are quite a few down trees in 11 spots that will take at least two hours to cut out, one very large one too big to remove but will limb it to ease climbing over. I am so glad the trail will be useable. If the path was still flooded I swore the last time this happened I would cut a trail on the other side of the river. It is quite hot and I am sweat-soaked just from the walk. No breeze and hot, 27°C before supper at 17:00 in the Bug Tent. I am sure temperature rose to 30°C today. Bugs are terrible. From my journal: "Use a small leafed alder branch as a switch to keep them away from my back. On my return to camp mosquitoes and flies are horrendous, swarming on my sweat-soaked shirt. Mosquitoes bite through my shirt where it happens to stretch against the skin." Back at camp I ready a mosquito coil to light in the front vestibule of the tent about half hour before retiring. I already lit a coil inside the tent after arising this morning. Sweat-soaked I badly need a bath so damn the bugs. From my journal: "Hang all clothes on the line while bathing ... for all the good it will do in such a short time. All the time, fending off flies whose bites hurt ... buggers. Wade in the stream where I landed, careful on and around all the stones, meanwhile swatting at mosquitoes and darn biting horseflies; even worse bites are from deer flies. Have to wade upstream about 10 metres to find deep enough water to squat and duck beside a large boulder. Move slowly in the current so as not to trip and fall. The biodegradable Lush bar soap lathers well to clean hair and entire body. The downside of the location is feet get dirty when getting out of river. I manage to rinse feet and Crocs™ sandals as I step each foot out. But oh how good the bath feels! Leaving hat, light shirt and towel on the clothesline I carry everything else to Bug Tent. Will wear heavy shirt later till tent time. Hopefully I have everything in the Bug Tent required when I eat supper. Once entering the Bug Tent I slip boots on after drying feet. Have to kill I'm sure 100 assorted mosquitoes and flies of all sizes, taking at least five minutes with a lot of swatting. Floor is littered with bodies. Several more blood stains of mosquitoes that bit me before dispatch. Have to tell daughter Andrea she wouldn't have survived the bugs this year! Most people maybe wouldn't." At 18:25 I am trying to do a puzzle but keep falling asleep. Supper done it is time to get dressed, light tent vestibule mosquito coil, clear up gear and head for bed. Hopefully I can sleep in longer tomorrow. I plan on staying a day or two if necessary to wait for cooler temperatures or at least a breeze. Calm, heat and humidity makes for bad bugs.
July 19:
Today continues hot and calm, already 28°C by 10:00, smoky, bugs as bad as ever, temperature surely rising over 30°C. Thank goodness for the reprieve of the Bug Tent where I eat meals all day. Vowing to drink more water, I know I did not yesterday as I peed very little last night. Even wearing no clothes I am sweating lots. The one advantage of waiting for cooler weather or at least a wind is that the trail will be drying more. Getting dressed I use the canoe to go fishing. First I try across the river casting into the stream with three different lures but only get a small pike which I release. Paddling up the lake along the shore I release another small pike which pays off when I catch a nice 18" walleye. I realize at this stage of my trip I do not need any more as I am not hungry enough to eat two or three fish like I will in a few more weeks. Returning to some boulders across from camp to fillet the fish I also gather salad (red currants, fireweed flowers and tops, new raspberry and alder leaves, alum root seed pods). While fishing, the bedding hangs on the clothesline to air and dry. On return to camp after I stow the bedding I light a mosquito coil in the tent. Thank goodness too for the coils. After supper I start a coil in the tent vestibule before having a bath; it helps prevent more mosquitoes from entering but ideally just finishes burning as I enter tent. From my journal: "Bathe surrounded and bitten by flies. Would be better to have bath midafternoon or earlier if possible. Feels good to be clean, bad to be bitten so many times. Horseflies and flies of all sizes ... buggers! Sunset sees a red ball of sun through the smoke. Having drank lots of water during the day now I have to empty the pee can during the night. At least five mosquitoes enter so usual search and destroy mission with headlamp on. Get them all as no more bothering me later."
July 20:
From my journal: "Wake at 05:00 to pee with intent of laying down again, maybe not to sleep but to think of today's plan. Hear 'extra' sound in river over and above rapids. First thought a duck but it's different. Then more noise. Probably a moose crossing from other side of river. Could be a bear but get the impression of a 'stepping' animal like a moose. Then lots of splashing! Still wearing PJs pull boots on, grab gun, ammo bag, Waist Pack. Outside no sign of moose or bear or tracks on shore. Think it was crossing as its probably done before from other side but then turned back when it recognized a foreign presence. Would have to look for tracks on far shore." Of course definitely wide awake now when I go back to tent to get dressed there are several mosquitoes inside. Mosquitoes outside are bad so don head net right away. It is hot, dead calm and humid again. Having decided to clear the portage trail, I tie the Kitchen Barrel to a tree. I wear the Waist Pack, Rubber Pack on shoulders, carrying LifeStraw® (in 600 mL Rubbermaid® container full of water) along with saw, pruners and leather mitts. At each of the 11 main places needing to be cleared I drop the gear and start cutting. It is mainly saw work but use the pruners for alders and small coniferous trees mostly balsam fir, some spruce. Half way through I return to camp to refill LifeStraw® container. There are several areas of down intertangled trees. One large tree would need a chainsaw to clear the path but I saw branches off flush with the trunk so as not to catch clothing and gear when I shinny over. A big tree at the lower end obligingly has fallen along the path so I just have to saw off all the trail-side branches. There are also numerous branches and small trees to throw off the trail plus areas to use the pruners to remove alders which would trip me up otherwise. Walking to the lower end of the portage overlooking the next lake below the rapids smoke is obvious in the sky. It has taken two hours to clear the portage. The rising sun now visible through trees is a smoke-induced red ball. Back at camp after setting up the Bug Tent I hang up sweat-soaked light shirt and hat and put on heavy shirt which will be okay provided I forgo any sweaty tasks. My pants are quite damp but I am not going to take them off outside with all the bugs. At 10:00 no clothes on I am eating late breakfast in the Bug Tent. By 11:30 the sun is in the right spot to hit me directly so I get dressed to move the Bug Tent under the shade of the Tarp shelter. Refreshed, next task is to take some gear not required in camp to the lower end of the portage in two carries (canoe and Canvas Tent Pack with Stove Bag). I am pleased that I can lift the 33 kg (72 lb) canoe in one attempt and carry it the entire 600 metres without setting down, not even at the large tree; keeping the canoe steady I manage to sidle over the tree with one leg, resting my bum on the trunk then swing and pull the other leg across. Planning to move on tomorrow, the paddles and painters are left to bring with the rest of the gear. After finishing all the hard work I have a fly-bombed bath in the river. After bathing I towel off outside except for my feet; wearing Crocs™ sandals to enter the Bug Tent I dry feet with handkerchief. The most difficult part of bathing besides not tripping on rocks in the water is keeping feet clean on shore. All my clothes and towel are hanging on the line after rinsing head net, light shirt, undershorts and in-use handkerchief. While clearing the trail I wore cotton/leather gloves and wristlets for bug protection so they hang on the line too. In the Bug Tent I have my Clothes Bag so I can slip on a clean dry set to wear when I go outside. Hopefully the in-use clothes dry although they are not getting much sun now. No clothes on, I eat a late lunch in the Bug Tent at 14:35. Trying to update journal and do a puzzle I keep falling asleep. When I exit to make supper at 18:00 I exchange heavy shirt for the mostly dry light shirt. The in-use clothes on the line are dry or mostly dry. After making and eating supper and prepacking, my light shirt gets quite damp again. The clean jeans and socks are a bit sweat-dampened too; they will hopefully dry laying on the canoe when I move on tomorrow. Even doing nothing I sweat. Today I do not brush teeth morning or evening, just floss and chew gum; I have tried when wearing head net but just end up painting the inside with toothpaste. When ready to go to the tent mosquitoes and flies are still bad! The vestibule coil still burning helps me get mostly mosquito-free into tent ... just two which come in on clothing and gear.