06:57 September 9, smoky orange-red sunrise.
Heading up the lake, trees mirrored perfectly on the dead-calm glass-like surface.
The foot of the next rapids to be portaged.
The 370 metre trail wanders through alder brush, tall grass and plants showing autumn colours.
The path snakes along the river rapids tumbling over and through boulders.
In the photos below, along the portage are many signs of the ending season.
Old bear scat that I saw in July made up of mostly spring plant fibre.
More recent scat revealing the berries eaten.
Bright berries of poisonous red baneberry.
The white berry variation of baneberry.
Purple aster, one of the few flowers remaining this late in the year.
Small puffball mushrooms.
Canoe is easy to load in the shallow water at the upper end of portage, the grass-covered shore level with the water.
Paddling up the small lake to the next rapids and its 600 metre portage.
Camp 20, old camp 4, is at the upper end of the long trail. Because of lower water levels I will not be able to launch the canoe at the spot right at camp used in July. I manage to clear a trail above camp across ground that was under water in July; to get the canoe out far enough in the river I build a pad of brush cut to make the path. Note the small aluminum motorboat grown over by brush and trees. Such abandoned boats are common all across the north, some being carried by spring floods, others portaged with great effort or flown in.
September 10, thick wildfire smoke all day.
Video and audio of TERRIBLE blackflies surrounding head net, now not shooed away by campfire smoke. These bugs I distinguish by referring to them as gnats.
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Summary:
Progressively later sunrises and earlier sunsets. Yellowing leaves and certain plants signal approach of autumn. Give thanks for excellent canoe and portage day. Thick smoke. Have to start using eyedrops to soothe smoke-irritated eyes. Video and audio of terrible blackflies surrounding head net, now not shooed away by campfire smoke. Two stories of annoying problems: difficult launching of canoe in river at camp; new fishing line gets tangled. Camp 20, old camp 4, is reached after travelling six kilometres including two portages (370, 600 metres).
September 9:
Awake by 03:45, I lay in bed until the alarm reminds me to get up at 04:30. After packing sleep gear and inner tent by candlelight in the cabin there is still not much daylight at 05:00. I set the canoe in the water beside the dock to load before eating breakfast in the comfort of the cabin. Cabin closed up I hope the bear does not get back inside after I am gone. When the sun finally appears it is a ruby red ball through smoke haze. The mirror-like surface on the dead calm lake perfectly reflects images of the trees as I paddle along the lakeshore. Blackflies are bothersome continuing so on the lake. The buggers fly into my face, liking to lodge and bite along the hat where it hugs my forehead. Surprisingly when I get to the first portage of the day there are no bugs, an unexpected but nice reprieve. The trail is in good shape, no clearing required. I take note of mature colourful but poisonous baneberries, purple aster flowers, mushrooms, recent bear scat and the yellowing of leaves as autumn approaches. Paddling up the two kilometre lake, now against a moderate headwind, I welcome the cooling effect after the sweaty portage. I spot three bald eagles soaring high above on the air currents, barely having to flap their wings. When I reach the next portage beside rapids it takes three different attempts to dock for unloading; the decreased water level exposes boulders that make it necessary to tie up the canoe out in the lake then step down from shore onto slippery boulders and back up with packs. I have to unload piece by piece from the stern walking towards the bow to pick up each pack or barrel being careful to brace my footing in the wobbly canoe. Even though water level is only down 12 inches it makes quite a difference. Under the canoe I stow gear to be picked up another day: paddles, painters, Stove Bag, Canvas Tent Pack. From my journal: "After third carry up the 600 metre portage to camp am feeling weak so eat lunch as I walk back for another load. Trail in good shape. Initiate SPOT™ at 12:15 after finishing today's carries. Made good time! Give thanks for excellent canoe and portage day (which is what I asked for last evening)." Before putting water on to boil I have to saw and split firewood. While water heating I set up the nylon tent and sleep gear. After tying two barrels I erect the Tarp shelter and the clothesline. Because of lower water levels I will not be able to launch the canoe at the spot used in July right at camp. Across ground that was then all under water, I bushwhack to scout out a new path to the river for the canoe and to have a bath. With all my sweat-soaked clothes hanging on the line I have a refreshing bath; I walk out into the river for enough depth being careful not to stumble on the stones and boulders; I have to make sure not to lose my footing and step out of the Crocs™ clogs which would be swept down the rapids. The south wind is now strong but helps keeps bugs away and cool me off. With no thermometer I guess the temperature to be about 24°C. While macaroni and cheese sit after adding boiling water I walk up the steep hill above camp to fell three small spruce trees to provide bough mats. Down along the trail there is only balsam fir which is inferior to spruce for branches. At suppertime I add eyedrops to soothe sore eyes, probably the chronic smoke exposure catching up to me; I will add more at bedtime and in the morning. Thank goodness I brought eyedrops; this is the first time ever I have had to use them before winter time dryness. After supper I nod off in my chair so head to bed. I had hoped the tent base was level but have to place a pack beside my feet to keep on the mattress. A warm night, I sleep unclothed on the sheet until 21:00, then most of the night on top in pajamas. Camp 20, old camp 4, is at the upper end of the second portage after travelling six kilometres including two portages (370, 600 metres).
September 10:
Arising by 05:30 I can perform most chores without added light. It is definitely darker here in the valley so will change alarm to 05:00; for that reason and the blackflies I am planning to move on tomorrow, already asking for good canoe weather if possible. The morning is quite cool, having to add the heavy shirt; some gnats are active so guessing temperature about 12°C. Blackflies like mosquitoes tend to be inactive below 10°C. There is a definite wildfire smoke smell. It was windy all night and it sure looks and feels like rain. Breakfast includes fresh bannock eaten in the Bug Tent. The blackflies/gnats are terrible so wear head net all morning; they are so bad it reinforces why I carry two spare head nets, an extra in the Waist Pack and one in Clothes Pack. I decide to go fishing using the canoe as it is too shallow along shore. So the first task is to portage the canoe and gear left at the lower end of the portage. From my journal: "However there's a story about getting canoe launched. Yesterday I tromped the grass down to where I went for a bath in the river. I have to pull the canoe under the Tarp shelter, through camp and trees. After getting the canoe to the shore I load it with the usual gear. Pushing it farther into the water it hits a boulder. Aie! Try again to the side. Same story. Double aie! What looked okay from shore is not, not enough water under canoe. So scout out new launch site farther upstream. It takes half hour to cut out alder brush and birch trees. All done I realize launching would entail wet feet in water over the top of boots; when I move on would prefer not to sit all day with soggy boots. Carry all the felled brush and trees to place crossways at shore as a poor man's dock. If I'd thought of it I could have started cutting the path at shore and piled the cuttings there in the first place. At least I got some more firewood out of the endeavour. Unloading and pulling the canoe to the new site for reloading, launching now goes well." I cross the river to deeper water where I land to assemble the fishing rod. Wearing the head net restricts visibility making assembly more difficult, especially the tying of the line to the leader. I know not to try casting across and down the river with the reduced flow as the hook would probably get snagged; the river appears to be down at least 12 inches. Looking up the expanse of the lake above the rapids the smoke is quite obvious; it was harder to tell at camp in the shelter of trees and the valley. I am not sure of the wind direction but it is bringing in lots of smoke. Paddling up the shoreline opposite camp I try fishing in deeper water. From my journal: "Another story, this time about problems with the new fishing line. When I start casting, for some reason line comes off the reel separate from that being brought in on the spool. Aie! What a mess! While in the canoe, parked in the lee of a fallen tree, I cut off the mass of tangled line (to be burned in the fireplace at camp) and reattach the leader and lure. At least didn't lose leader or lure. Gear back in order I paddle farther up the lake proper, now about one kilometre from camp, where I am more protected from wind. I catch a nice 27 inch pike on the second cast. Anticlimax after all the pre-fishing excitement." Out on the lake I confirm that the wind is from the north which I hope keeps up tomorrow for canoeing. I paddle back to a good spot across from camp to fillet the fish. At camp I park the canoe on shore well behind the brush dock. For lunch I use the Bug Tent because the blackflies/gnats are very bothersome; it is ironic that in all the smoke and wind they are so bad. I think the main reason here is because blackflies prefer running water to lay their eggs. Earlier in the season they are shooed away by fireplace smoke but not so towards autumn which is why I refer to them now as gnats (even though I know blackflies are gnats); I do wonder if early and late blackflies are different species or different varieties of the same species. When I walk to the new landing I can fill the bailer full of clear water, unlike the previously used spot which only yields a grungy half container. Looking up towards the lake the view is occluded with thick smoke. Blackflies seem to dissipate while cooking pike chowder so I pack the Bug Tent intending to eat outside. However the buggers return so have to set up the Bug Tent again. What a difference from yesterday when I was sitting outside with shirt off, illustrating the contrast of the effect of wind and weather. As the sun lowers through the trees it is an orange-red ball getting redder as it sinks through more smoke at the horizon. Calm now, the gnats are as bad as ever as I finish prepacking before bedtime.