On my return route, an interesting 'cross' in a rock formation.
Another smoky day.
Hot weather encourages thick green algae, compounded by lower water levels.
Reduced visibility in thick smoke makes use of compass and map important for keeping on the correct track.
Crossing one stretch of open water I am suddenly surrounded by at least 100 double-crested cormorants who circle completely around me not just once but three times. Not sure why their salute. Despite being pitch black they are reported to bring good luck. These photos are taken one in each quadrant.
Stopping for breakfast at the island of old camp 12.
Passing a small island I remark that a huge rock creature is guarding the passage between it and the mainland. I visualize a mouth, eye, nose and a front paw.
Breaking for lunch on mainland shore opposite the large 'David Thompson' island. I sit in the shade of an overhanging birch tree.
A rest stop along steep rock shore.
Finally at the bay leading to the waterfalls of old camp 10 in the distance.
Camp 14 at the previous camp 10 location.
05:25 August 24, beautiful sunrise though influenced by smoke.
A chipmunk is eating while eyeing me as I walk across the top of the falls to try my luck fishing.
A beaver swims near the falls. At one point the mate was there too. The first one keeps circling and repeatedly splashing its tail before diving, not happy with my presence.
The thicket of ripening rose hips at the falls where I ate the tasty purple gooseberries when last here at camp 10.
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Summary:
Decide to start on my return journey instead of going to the Churchill River, tired of the smoke, heat but especially low water and tough fishing. Long wearying day, 21 km including the 170 metre uphill portage around the waterfalls, much harder than going down. Camp an extra day to recuperate. Late incomplete camp set up using headlamp. No luck fishing at falls the first day but get a nice 33" pike the next. LifeStraw® stops working so make plans for drinking and carrying enough water on portages and travelling. Beavers and squirrels supervise my stay. Configure a setup with the Candle Bag as backup to headlamp and an option if I need to change batteries in the dark.
August 23:
Up at 04:30 to the alarm, I realize it will soon need to be set for 05:00 as daylight shortens; a big difference compared to early June when I typically arise at 03:00. Mosquitoes and gnats are very bothersome so on with the head net. There is not much wind to decide for me which direction I will go so I make the decision to turn back on the return journey, not even the young me objecting. It is quite smoky; I am tired of the smoke, heat but most significantly the low water level and tough fishing. Free of bugs now I stop for breakfast at old camp 12. Just before that I am surrounded by at least 100 flying double-crested cormorants who circle me three times in a counterclockwise direction. I remark out loud "Are you telling me something, perhaps that I am going in the correct direction?". They are considered good luck though I think originally by ocean fishermen hoping for a good catch where the birds themselves are feeding. Onward I contemplate pausing at the garbage cabin to take photographs but there is a long way to go today; it would cost time and extra distance. A hot day, I am glad to stop for lunch in the shade of a birch tree on mainland opposite the large 'David Thompson' isle. Farther on I purposely do not take the shortest map route around two islands; they are close to mainland and the channels may be too low or even dry with lack of water. I take a break once more in some shade along a steep rock shore; it is interesting to see several places like this where in the past fish nets have been set, the blue rope that tethered the net high and dry metres above the current lake surface. As I travel I see an otter and a mink which always brings a smile.
Arriving at the waterfalls at 16:45, it is 45 minutes later than estimated. As I approach my bald eagle launches off the tall spruce at the main falls, its homebase. From my journal: "Long day! Weary! Portaging uphill on the 170 metre trail around the falls a lot harder than going down. Descending I carried the canoe all the way. As I unload the canoe I carry gear to the upper end of the portage to make room at the lower landing. Younger self thinks about carrying the canoe up the 45° then 60° slope. Aie! Silly talk. Drag the canoe up the first 40 metres, half on bare rock. Aie! Then I hoist it but takes two tries with two big grunts. Sweat-soaked. I am thankful that the rock slope is dry; hitting it on a rainy day would be a challenge. Reload canoe to cross the river to old camp 10, new camp 14, arriving at 18:55 when I send SPOT™ message. Feeling a bit weak eat protein bar right away. After unloading start fire to boil water. Soon eating mac & cheese three spoonfuls at a time as I work. Tent up and gear inside. No Tarp shelter, barrels not tied, pots placed under the partial shelter of the big spruce. Have to use headlamp to set up tent. In bed by 22:00 the latest so far. Bed reasonably level after scuffing up a bunch of loose dry leaves and duff to help level the tent base." Today I have travelled 21 km including the 170 metre portage.
August 24:
Awaking early when rain drops fall on the tent I am up by 05:00 to a darker than usual morning, cloudy with typical smoke at horizon, 15°C. I finish chores not done yesterday, erecting Tarp shelter, tying the tent fly ropes, organizing two packs. It has been difficult anymore drinking enough water with the LifeStraw® so like last night at supper I drink several cups of hot boiled water. Hungry I eat fresh bannock with breakfast before more chores. Paddling to the falls I try fishing with no luck, losing a small walleye and a pike. Two beavers supervise me as I cast into their lake, the one repeatedly slapping its tail. The sparsity of fish at the falls illustrates the severity of the water drop, having migrated to deeper water. On landing yesterday I notice that the lake level is down at least another six inches (at a metal rod where the canoe had been tied before leaving). I could paddle upstream but most likely would have to go the two km to the rapids to catch fish as the water below is fairly shallow. Lunch is eaten late at 13:35, now 25°C, cloudy with only a bit of blue sky, gusting east wind now lifting up the Tarp shelter. From my journal: "Concerned about LifeStraw® not working well. Know it should filter much more water but perhaps it is plugged with algae or I have not been clearing it well enough. Would be better to reserve its use for portages and travel days. In the days before LifeStraw® used to carry two 1000 mL canteens, now only one 500 ml bottle which I thought would only use at night. Next season I will carry a spare LifeStraw® and another 500 mL canteen. Boiled water at camp is not a problem, filling canteen with warm or cooled water. Drinking unboiled water is not a good option given so many beavers; I had Giardia diarrhea once and had to fly out early. I now carry metronidazole for treatment if necessary but prevention is the best solution. Will save an empty plastic 500 mL peanut butter jar to store water for meals while travelling and use canteen on portages; luckily I am near the end of the second month and the bottle will be empty by soon. If I drink at least 1500 mL of water from the large pot just before leaving camp that morning it will help minimize use of carried water." After lunch I have a bath which feels so good in spite of the cool strong wind. The Tarp is being blown up like a sail; if it rains with that wind there would be no protection underneath. Dropping the Tarp I turn it facing the bush which works much better, the bottom ropes placed low. To raise the top ropes high enough I have to stand on the Kitchen Barrel. If necessary I could move the canoe to the bottom side of the Tarp but that would make it harder to use fireplace. All day it has looked like rain until 17:00 when the clouds clear. I plan to stay another day to try for a fish again; the main reason however is that I need more time to recover from the long hard day yesterday ending with the steep portage.
August 25:
After trying the LifeStraw® again this morning it is definitely plugged so I cremate it in the fireplace. There will be two portages tomorrow but if I fill up on water before leaving I do not think the canteen will be required until the final steep hilly trail. Then I can drink a mouthful after each portage. Flies are bothersome; they are all over my jeans and the lip of my cup. Buggers! The dark clouds usually would signal rain, now it is just wait and see. A squirrel runs right beside the chair, startling me. Because the spare flashlight is inoperable, I place spare batteries for the headlamp in the Candle/Mosquito-Coil Bag, easily accessible if I need to change them in the dark. Along with them I draw a paper diagram showing their orientation; otherwise the only way the built-in diagram can be viewed is either in full daylight or using another flashlight. The change is one more item to add to my checklist which no matter how long I have been camping has revisions every year. Canoeing to the falls I am pleased to catch a 33" pike after a few casts. Yay! Back at camp for lunch at 12:20 the darn flies are all over my food which I keep covered as much as possible; where have their feet been? By 13:35 temperature is 26°C, now mostly clear blue sky. The wind has switched to the west which explains the smoke smell and haze in the air. From my journal: "As I write journal and do a puzzle my squirrel crosses beside me between the fireplace and the Tarp shelter, taking its time; we're bonding. Kingfisher scolds me in a flyby. Sitting in shade, clothes and boots undone, cooling wind feels good. Haven't been sweating so don't think will need a bath today. Feels like rain, but no predictions." By 17:20 it is a comfortable 21°C as I prepare fried sauteed pike in couscous ... mmm good. A beaver swims near shore in front of camp, no problem dealing with the current above the waterfalls; I have seen lots of peeled birch floating above and below the falls. Dark clouds again but how much is because of smoke? Prepacking complete to move on tomorrow I am in bed by 19:30.