July 21, gear portaged the 600 metre trail and loaded in canoe. Smoke-filled sky visible in background.
Video of dozens of mosquitoes flying around me as I protest: "Mosquitoes are bloody hell!"
The view down the two km long unnamed lake from the lower landing.
Looking back at the rapids of the river outlet from camp 4 after launching.
A lone pelican mid-lake.
Approaching the next set of rapids at the outlet of the small unnamed lake.
Landing stern first above the rapids amongst brush and tall grass.
After unloading it is easiest to haul the canoe through the grass to the side. There are too many obstructing trees to take the canoe where I carried the gear.
Canoe still stern forward I have to pull and lift through brush and trees to turn it 180° facing the trail yet to be cleared.
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The following photos are of six areas on the 370 metre portage trail that require clearing of down trees. Photos 'before clearing' are followed by those 'after clearing'.
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The lower end of the second portage just beside the river outlet.
Looking back to the outlet rapids at the downstream landing of the second portage.
Heading down the next lake in the fast water from the rapids which butt up against a headwind.
July 21 at 16:15. Stop along the lake where there is an open area that I hope will have fewer bugs. Happy to see fewer mosquitoes and flies I set up my tent at the edge of the clearing near some old outfitter cabins. I have travelled six km including two portages (600, 370 metres), the latter requiring one hour of clearing.
Salad of dandelion leaves, pink fireweed flowers and seed pods, goldenrod, purple saskatoon berries, raspberries, wild strawberries, red currants, green dock seeds, yellow salsify flowers.
A newer outfitter cabin. The camp is obviously not in service, no propane tanks, boats out of water.
One of the doors of the cabin is wide open broken into by a black bear. Pots and water bottles are strewn all over the floor. The bear climbed up on the counter to reach ground coffee and spice bottles which lie broken and scattered. I clean up the mess as well as I can and leave a note for the outfitter.
July 22. A bit of unexpected excitement and a first for me. A helicopter circles overhead several times and lands beside the main cabin. The pilot readies the bucket to dump water on a fire area. He has already dropped off five wildfire fighters from a nearby Cree community. He points out the smoke from a fire that is within 500 metres of camp. I had not noticed it as it is just part of the clouds and smoke that sit around me borne on the west wind from a distance. They are knocking down the blaze that probably smoldered for awhile before being detected remotely using NASA satellite technology. Because it is close to the outfitter camp Saskatchewan Public Safety Agency provides "Protecting Values" support to help prevent fire from damaging the property.
Midafternoon a second helicopter lands with another set of fighters to help suppress fire and set up sprinklers.
The sprinklers will soak the area where my tent is located. Because it is late in the day I choose not to travel to a new campsite and decide to move the inner tent into the main cabin which itself will be sprinkled with water all night.
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Summary:
Wear head net for several hours when breaking camp and on the two portages. Video of dozens of mosquitoes flying around me as I protest: "Mosquitoes are bloody hell!" Smoky conditions continue. Camp 5 is at an outfitter's property with an expanse of grassy open area between two lakes where bugs are fewer and tolerable without head net or Bug Tent. I clean up the cabin of items a bear has trashed. Some excitement when two helicopters land at camp to fight a close by fire. They bring ten Cree firefighters who do a tremendous job of knocking back the fire and setting up sprinklers to protect the property. The helicopters also use buckets to drop water on the fire. I move my tent into the cabin for the night as sprinklers soak the area. Sure nice to sleep on a flat level floor and to have a table and chair. Travel six km including two portages (600, 370 metres), the latter requiring one hour of clearing.
July 21:
Up before the alarm at 04:00, it is too dark in tall trees in this sheltered valley to rise earlier. Mosquitoes continue to be terrible so wear the head net right away. Because of the portages done yesterday there are two fewer carries on the 600 metre trail. An alder switch proves its worth in either direction to shoo the bugs away from my shirt. Smoke is evident in the air and visible over the lake at the lower end of the portage. There is a moderate north headwind as I canoe two km down the small unnamed lake to the next rapids. Although the wind makes for harder paddling, it is a blessing as I am sweat-soaked and can take the head net off until reaching the next portage. A single pelican on the water greets me halfway then lifts off to soar high above. It takes me two tries to find a decent place to land in wet shallows overgrown with tall grass and brush. As I unload I eat breakfast accomplished by slackening the bottom closure of the head net to allow my hand to direct food and water to mouth. Landing stern first facilitates unloading but makes it impossible to turn the canoe for portaging; I tried paddling the bow directly into shore but could not get close enough. Not being able to simply pull the canoe straight in where I carried the gear I have to haul it off to the side through the long grass, brush and wet ground to reach an open enough spot. There I can wiggle the canoe around bow first, pulling and lifting through taller brush and trees at the side. I can see right away there are trees to cut to make a path. It takes one hour to clear the portage in six areas of the 370 metre trail. From my journal: "Was hoping for better but prepared for worse." Relaunching at the lower end beside the rapids I am faced with the still moderate headwind making for harder paddling. Eager to find an area with a reprieve from the horrible bugs of the last few days I land midway down the lake at an open grassy spot stretching between this waterbody and another which might have a breeze blowing along it. Weary and getting late in the day I hope not to have to move on. This is a self-serve outfitter's fly-in camp with a main cabin for fishing clients. It is obvious that the camp has not been opened this year, boats all on shore, no motors, no propane tanks at the cabin. One door is wide open where a bear has broken in but done a surprisingly small amount of damage, flinging pots and water bottles, breaking some and scattering contents of coffee and spice containers. The door has been open for some time as there are bird droppings, both fresh and dry piles. There are some old small cabins used in the years before the big cabin was built and I choose one to place gear and barrels hopefully safe from bears. From my journal: "Hungry, having forgone lunch, I eat mac & cheese and a protein bar for supper before putting up the tent. Blackflies bothersome. Wear hat scarf. But know I got some bites on my face. No mosquitoes though - nice! That's what I was hoping. Glad I stopped here." Having spotted a levelish location on the slope when I first landed I erect the nylon tent, moving it once to a 'better' spot. Retiring for the night at 21:30, as often the case the bed is not level, very much so in this case. I place my pack at the foot of the bed to prevent me from sliding into the tent door. Later I put the folded medium tarp under the side of the bed pad so it is at least level side-to-side. Despite the bed sloping too much downwards I manage to sleep okay, weariness making up for the discomfort.
July 22:
After breakfast I move the tent to hopefully a more level spot then place sleep gear back inside. About 10:00 a helicopter circles multiple times around camp and then settles down close by out of sight, remaining powered on. Taking off again it lands in the grassy expanse beside the big cabin. Sheldon the pilot introduces himself, as do I. He explains there is a small fire within 500 metres of camp and points out its smoke through the spruce trees. I had not noticed the smoke as it is just part of the clouds and smoke that sit around me. The first time he landed out-of-sight he dropped off a firefighting crew of five from a local Cree community who will work with chain saws and water hoses to knock down the blaze. The fire was apparently a probable lightning strike some time ago that smoldered for awhile before being detected remotely using NASA satellite technology. Because it is close to the outfitter camp Saskatchewan Public Safety Agency (SPSA) provides 'Protecting Values' support to help prevent fire from damaging the property. Sheldon says there are no fires of significance in the area but the 'Flanagan' fire that Jeanette reported earlier to me is big and growing, moving towards the nearby Sandy Bay community; it is the origin of the smoke borne on west winds that I have been witness to since starting my trip. He flies away to pick up equipment. The loud wop wop wop noise of the helicopter absent, now I can hear the scream of chainsaws working at the fire. After lunch I clean up the worst of the bear damage, leaving an explanatory note. Midafternoon I just finish a much needed bath in the lake when a second helicopter lands with another set of fighters. Both helicopters continually drop water on the fire location. Late afternoon one crew sets up four sprinklers to provide defense for the camp area closest to the fire in case it spreads. The sprinklers will soak the spot where my tent is located. Because it is late in the day I choose not to travel to a new campsite and decide to move my inner tent and required gear into the main cabin which itself will be sprinkled with water all night. In the cabin I have the luxury of a chair, table and a flat level floor to sleep on. The inner tent protects me from mosquitoes. Impressed by their efficiency in cutting poles to erect sprinklers and hoses, plus working directly at the fire site with water pumps and chainsaws, I thank the firefighters; I do not envy them working in the hot smoky bug-laden conditions. The crew and helicopters leave me in peace by 19:00. There still is the steady sound of the water pump feeding sprinklers and the water hitting the metal roof and siding as the sprinklers rotate 360°. The pump sits on the dock about 100 metres away so its noise is somewhat subdued. From my journal: "In bed by 20:30, I remark out loud 'Sure nice to sleep on a flat level floor!'"
Follow-up
When I return home Jeanette asks if I knew there was a forest fire at camp 5 after I left. She noticed the SPSA wildfire map reported one there when I had moved on to my next camp. She is surprised when I say that I did know and that I was there at the time of the fire!