07:07 - 07:46 September 15, sun takes a while to burn away thick fog, having to rely on map and compass to make sure I paddle in the correct direction.
07:54, only remnants of fog remain near the surface of the lake.
Passing through sparse stalks of wild rice, the seed pods empty due to predation by wild rice moth.
Passing under overhead powerlines from Island Falls at Sandy Bay which span a narrows in the lake.
For awhile I travel close to the east side of the lake to get some shelter from the rising sun.
An awesome encounter, a bald eagle perched tall and proud on an elevated rock point near the surface of the lake. Upon noticing the canoe's appearance the eagle turns its head towards me but otherwise stays stationary for several seconds, much longer than I have ever seen one do so close by. Usually the bird would fly away well before getting so near. Thinking it might have been eating prey I cannot see any as I pass.
When canoeing through this location in July I managed to just make it over the string of boulders now standing well above the water surface, illustrating that the level has dropped between one and two feet since.
There are many areas of bush with pretty yellowing birch leaves signalling the approach of autumn.
10:30, a small isle where I stop for breakfast. I strategically place myself and gear to avoid the litter of otter scat. It is late because I wanted to paddle south past the long expanse of lake prior to turning west towards my destination, before wind makes it more difficult. While sitting in the shade I hear a motorboat passing west behind the island; we cannot see each other but from the quiet sound of the motor I think it is probably Duane who I met at camp 2 in July.
An active beaver lodge, fresh birch cuttings stashed in the water for winter food.
The final approach towards camp 22, old camp 2, at 13:57 after travelling 20 km. Light band of smoke at horizons. I am surprised to have made such good time.
06:30 September 16, sunrise through light smoke, mist rising from water.
The waterfalls beside the first portage at camp 22 have a higher volume of water than I expected, though much less than the torrent seen in July.
White berries of red-osier dogwood along the portage, edible but bitter, better mixed with other food.
08:45 September 16, canoe and gear portaged and packed ready to leave as I eat breakfast. The view is across the next lake from the upper end of the first 100 metre portage directly from camp.
09:15, heading up the lake. I soon hear a motorboat and Duane stops along side. As he slowly motors my canoe to the inlet we have a nice chat. He stayed in his cabin on this lake last night.
Leaving Duane behind I head up the river.
Passing the junction of another inflowing stream there are two beaver lodges one near its outlet and one across from it along the main river. It is surprising to see two separate lodges so close to each other, testament to good food supply.
The river is thick with water plants, slowing movement of the canoe, getting the paddle hung up. Because of the lower water level an old beaver dam is exposed. In July I crossed over easily. Now I find that the best course is on the left against the wall of reeds. After trying bow first I back off and reverse the canoe so I can clear out some logs and branches without having to step out. Then with several big pushes I manage to pole stern first through and across the dam.
Looking back at the dam where I crossed (on the right in the photo).
Heading up the river through a mass of water lily pads, the underwater stems getting tangled on my paddle.
Approaching the second portage on the right shore. The stream itself flows down a small overgrown rapids on the left.
I try taking the canoe straight ahead to the shorter portage used in July, but bottom out well before the shore. Landing is just to the right in thick reeds; it is wet but not over boot tops.
Launching at the upper end of the second 100 metre portage after clearing the trail.
The river course is shallow with many boulders but no hang-ups or wading, just reversing once to take a better course.
The last dense mass of horsetail to paddle through to a small lake.
Thick tall cattails in shallow water at the upper end of the lake obstruct the narrow winding river channel. Note the cabin/house beside the short rapids next to which on the right is the third 100 metre portage. The carry crosses the clearing beside the cabin. It takes me four tries to blindly select the correct approach to the channel hidden by plants. Standing up in the canoe gives no better visibility.
The landing at the portage just below the cabin.
The view back to the cattails below the portage. The channel is near left of centre in the photo.
More lily pads after the third and final portage, these easy to pass through.
Looking three km up the lake where my vehicle is parked. I had just stopped for a break on shore at the site of old camp 1. In the morning I thought I may have to camp here depending on how late it might be. But I have made better time than anticipated, a busy day in perfect weather travelling 18 km (including three portages, 100 metres each). I am impressed with arriving at the final landing by 17:00 when I initiate the SPOT™ to inform my contacts.
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Summaries:
Thick fog requires use of map and compass. A gorgeous travel day, making good time, 20 km to camp 22 (old camp 2). More evidence of wild rice decimated by wild rice moth. Awesome encounter with bald eagle. Breakfast stop amongst smelly otter scat.
Jeanette's weather prediction is for rain; tired of long nights as season progresses decide to move on next morning. See Duane again after first meeting in July; he motors the canoe up the lake. River channel with lower water level, one old exposed beaver dam and thick water plants slows progress. Approach to third and final portage difficult to find. Meet Oriole and Merv at their cabin on last portage, getting much appreciated help with the carry. In continuing good weather again make surprisingly good time arriving at vehicle location after 18 km (including three 100 metre portages). A big thanks to Elaine and Harvey for letting me park vehicle all summer. Decide to drive to Prince Albert to spend the night, finally in bed at hotel by midnight, a very long day.
Afterword summary:
Photos before and after haircut and trimming beard. Arrive home next day after hotel stay, a rapid transition from bush to home. Good to see Jeanette ... and on her birthday. Smoke has caused not only eye irritation requiring use of eyedrops, but chronic cough needing treatment. Total distance canoed is 370 km including 21 portages (distance 4,920 metres), only running one 200 metre rapids. A total of 56 fish were caught for evening meals (30 walleye, 26 pike). Link to revised canoe menu for 2025. Summary of forest fires that affected my season.
September 15 Sunday:
After getting up at 04:30 to pack by candlelight I leave at 07:30. It is calm, cool, a temperature estimate of 5°C; I dress in two shirts until starting to paddle. The fog is so thick that I cannot see mainland on any side. As I leave camp I am saluted by the drum roll of a pileated woodpecker as it pounds on a tree, interesting because the same occurred as I paddled away from the last two camps. The fog gradually lifts but until then I must use map and compass to move in the correct direction. I paddle to the east mainland shore where tall trees provide occasional shade from the rising sun as I progress up the lake. Passing through sparse stalks of wild rice, the seed pods are empty due to predation by wild rice moth. Once the fog lifts the sun is very bright so I don sunglasses, bandana tied under chin over face and neck, broad-brimmed Tilley® hat, wrists shielded with sleevelets, gloves on hands. Smoke is minimal at horizons, a gorgeous day, a marked change from the past while. Soon after crossing to the west side of the lake before it broadens too much I have an awesome encounter; a bald eagle is perched tall and proud on an elevated rock point near the surface of the lake. Upon noticing the canoe's appearance the eagle turns its head towards me but otherwise stays stationary for several seconds, much longer than I have ever seen one do so close by. Usually the bird would fly away well before getting so close. Thinking it might have been eating prey I cannot see any as I pass. From my journal: "Hungry for breakfast but want to paddle south past the long expanse of lake and turn to the west towards my destination, before wind makes it more difficult. No stopping, I paddle steadily, one stroke per second ... stroke, stroke, stroke. Wind does pick up starting as a light south headwind, then switching west. There are, rather 'were', a few shortcut areas through bays that I won't take. Lower water levels mean I would find myself having to segue back out, paddling farther, turning shortcuts into 'longcuts'. Finally making the turn I canoe two km more before stopping at 10:30 on a small island. Hungry! Have paddled nonstop 12 km which normally would take me four hours but do it in a surprising three. There is welcoming bare rock but as I park the canoe notice it is littered with smelly black soft otter scat. Doing a dance to avoid stepping in the crap I move a big rock to a place I can sit plus have some safe spots to place gear. Spruce boughs beside me make an area to set the Lunch bag. Eat big breakfast, double each of protein bars and peanut butter along with Parmesan cheese, bacon crumbles, quarter bannock, water." While sitting in the shade I hear a motorboat passing west behind the island; we cannot see each other but I think it is probably Duane who I met in July. The motor is quiet like that of his large pontoon boat. Hunger sated I move on generally west, sometimes in a light headwind depending on my course. As I approach old camp 2 (new camp 22) at 14:00 I see my suspicion was correct, Duane's boat is parked at the portage where he will have used a small boat at the upper end to go to his cabin. I had thought to take up the invitation to stay at his cabin but will camp here where I stayed in July. Not disappointed, I am ready to stop after the 20 km trip so will not have to portage today. It has been a nice sunny day, mostly clear, steady paddling against a light headwind much of the time. After unloading, I start a fire to boil water. While eating a late lunch I set up the nylon tent, tie barrels, erect Tarp shelter. After supper I walk to the upper end of the portage to check for Jeanette's satellite phone message: "OK. No fires near. Rain. Midteens temp." I send text message: "Happy bday 17th. Will let you know where I stay after reaching van." In bed by 19:30 I can 'see' because of the full moon. From my journal: "Laying in bed think about leaving tomorrow. Jeanette has said rain, so did John D. So getting out if I can with good weather if it holds. Don't want three portages in rain. Plus likely problems anyway reaching the last two portages with low water levels. This camp is sheltered by the thick boughs of tall spruce trees; darkness will last late in the morning and start early evening. Getting tired of the long nights. So decide to move on after only spending one day. Rewarded by good weather yesterday, I hope for the same tomorrow but fear more rainy weather is on the way."
September 16:
Up at 04:30 to candlelight and headlamp, I did not sleep well, perhaps caught up. After portaging the canoe first on the 100 metre path I use Duane's wagon to carry the barrels, Canvas Tent Pack and Stove Bag. Loading the canoe is easy in the shallow water along shore, pushing it farther out as I add gear. Before leaving I eat a big meal, a repeat of yesterday's breakfast. As usual I drink at least 1500 mL of potable water from the large pot before the final packing at camp. (Later I am glad I ate lots!) Shoving off I am about one km up the lake when I hear a motorboat heading my way. Duane has been scouting for moose sign. He pulls up along side pointing the canoe and boat in my direction of travel. With an attached bungee cord and me grasping his boat's gunwale he slowly motors toward the lake inlet as we have a nice long chat. Saying goodbye I head into the river mouth. The river looks much different compared to when I travelled downstream in July. Cattails and other water reeds grow tall alongside, narrowing the winding channel.
Until I get above the third and final portage the winding water courses are all shallower, narrower and choked with water plants. The latter slows movement of the canoe, getting the paddle hung up. Before the second portage an old beaver dam is exposed. In July I crossed over easily. Now I find that the best course is on the left against the bank of reeds. After trying bow first I back off and reverse the canoe so I can clear out some logs and branches without having to step out. Then with several big pushes against the dam I manage to pole through and across stern first. Because I cannot reach the shorter portage used in July, bottoming out well before shore, I land at the lower end of the 100 metre trail. After half hour of clearing I carry the gear and canoe to the upper end. Getting away with barely enough water between boulders I reach the end of this section where I have to push through a long dense patch of horsetails into a small lake.
Paddling on upstream against a moderate headwind, I reach the approach to the final 100 metre portage. Even standing upright I cannot determine the best course through the thick horsetails and then the tall densely growing cattails. From my journal: "Takes four tries to find my way through the reeds to the main winding narrow channel. First time I try too far left and reach the same right angle turn that I couldn't make in July, the canoe too long. Have to pole hard against the cattails to back out. Try to move over to the right directly in some open water but have to back out again. Return to the lake proper, paddle farther right but not far enough and have to back out once more! Reverse to the lake to move farther right yet again and reach what I hope is the main channel. Paddling and poling using spare paddle I can see the house/cabin at the portage, the canoe sliding heavily along the stream bottom." Finally I reach the portage location and back in. I pull the canoe in as far as possible on the soggy grass and reeds. After partially unloading I carry the first load, pushing my way through overhanging alders to reach the cabin yard. When confronted by a large black dog and a small white one, I stop. Oriole greets me and calms the noisy small fellow. I finish the carry to the upper end of the portage and drop my load, but hang the small Waist Pack in a tree out of reach of the dogs. The owners, Merv and Oriole, and I make introductions, though my reputation has preceded me from where I parked my vehicle. I met Merv decades ago; now we both have much more grey hair. Oriole gives me a bottle of water to drink. Merv helps me portage gear. I start to use their small wagon but Merv fetches his ATV and trailer, most gear fitting all at once. What an easy portage! Such a wonderful thing to do and much appreciated! We have a nice chat before Merv has to leave by motorboat to head out to work. After loading the canoe, I move on before realizing my waist is too light and comfortable; I forgot the Waist Pack hanging in the tree! Aie! Paddling back, the dogs announce my return and Oriole comes down and hands me my pack without having to get out of the canoe. After one last goodbye, I am truly ready to leave.
Now there is a clear path through all the lily pads and reeds. It seems to take forever to reach the outlet of the lake at the site of old camp 1 where I stop for a break. This morning I thought I may have to camp here depending on how late it might be. With a last goodbye to camp 1 and to my canoe season, I head up the last three km. I have made better time than anticipated, a busy day in perfect weather travelling 18 km (including three portages, 100 metres each). I am impressed with arriving at the final landing by 17:00 when I initiate the SPOT™ to inform my contacts. The dock is too far above the water for unloading so I back directly onto shore. I walk up to the house where my vehicle has been parked all summer. The owners Harvey and Elaine have been so kind to let me park; it is important to have such a safe and secure location. We chat for a few minutes and I say my last thankyou and goodbye. After driving down to the shore I load gear and canoe.
I consider staying here overnight but then it would be an extra long drive home so decide to leave and stop in Prince Albert. The fire evacuees have returned home so hopefully there is a hotel room available. Sometimes regretting the decision, it is a long tiring journey of 3½ hours by the time I reach the inn at 22:30 when I send another SPOT™ message, a long day. I am always amazed how at the flick of a switch I am driving at speed down a highway after the slow pace of life alone in the bush. As I drive I eat supper. From my journal: "Tired and weary! Accompanied and overwatched on the drive by a big full bright moon, feeling like I could reach out to touch. It hangs over my shoulder all the way. An awesome sight. A gigantic looking harvest moon on its closest orbit to earth. Neil Young's song 'Harvest Moon' sticks in my thoughts for the whole drive." Luckily there is a room in my preferred hotel. After buzzing off my beard I have a warm shower, a lot of hair in the sink to clean up! I think about getting something to eat at a nearby fast food restaurant but decline. In bed by midnight, I do not sleep well, enclosed with fan noise and no fresh air, a big difference from the tent.
********************** AFTERWORD **********************
September 16, early morning before leaving camp 22.
September 24, at home after trimming beard and getting a haircut.
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September 17, Jeanette's birthday:
Up before 05:30 I have breakfast before leaving, eating a hearty meal, much different than camp fare. Driving straight through I stop about half way at a Tim Hortons for an extra large double double and two muffins slathered with butter. Because I am intolerant of caffeine this is the only time I drink coffee because I am feeling sleepy; otherwise I would have to pull over for a snooze. I stop twice for a break at picnic grounds along the road. Arriving by 16:00 I initiate the SPOT™ for the last time this season, a rapid transition from bush to home. It is good to be home to see Jeanette. I remember to stop to pick up flowers for her birthday. We catch up as I eat a homecooked meal for supper.
September 18 and later:
I unload the vehicle and start the process of sorting, cleaning, drying, repairing gear, already thinking about next year's trip.
After a few days I ease into my routine exercise regimen.
Over the course of canoeing I have lost seven pounds which I regain within a month. I continue using eyedrops. Because I have developed a chronic cough due to smoke inhalation during the canoe trip my doctor prescribes an inhaled bronchodilator/corticosteroid. Thankfully after two weeks my symptoms are resolved. I feel sorry for people who reside the entire fire season in wildfire smoke conditions.
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Totals (distance canoed, number of fish caught):
Total distance canoed:
370 km including 21 portages (distance 4,920 metres), only running one 200 metre rapid.
Number of fish caught for evening meals:
56 (30 walleye, 26 pike).
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Grub Menu for 2025:
Daily menu of food supplies has been revised.
The most significant change involves the bannock recipe. The premixed bannock with double butter but no shortening was exposed to consistently hot conditions in 2024; the currants fermented and the butter melted. For 2025 I am reverting to previous menus with butter plus shortening and added quick rolled oats, white wheat bran and salt. The labile ingredients will be stored individually and added in the field to each bannock (currants, ground flax seed, seed mixture).
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Forest wildfires affecting my 2024 canoe season in Central Saskatchewan.
Information from Saskatchewan Public Safety Agency (SPSA).
https://www.saskpublicsafety.ca/emergencies-and-response/active-incidents
1 hectare = 100 square metres
100 hectares = 1 square km
Wildfires most directly affecting me:
ID 279, 24DB-Flanagan Fire, lightning strike, 61,116 hectares, start 2024-07-09, out 2024-10-07, west of Sandy Bay along Churchill River.
Sandy Bay evacuated August 13 - September 10.
This fire generated most of the smoke affecting my breathing and eyes leading to use of N95 mask and eyedrops. After returning home I suffer from a chronic cough that requires treatment with an inhaled bronchodilator/corticosteroid.
ID 408, 24DB-Jones Fire, lightning strike, 2.7 hectares, start 2024-07-22, out 2024-08-15, just north of where I camped July 21, sprinklers on the next day causing me to move tent and gear into cabin.
Other fires near Flanagan that contributed smoke:
ID 139, 24DB-McGaffin Fire, lightning strike, 11,506 hectares, start 2024-07-15, out 2024-08-28, north of Sandy Bay along Churchill River.
ID 142, 24DB-Dunn Fire, lightning strike, 32,884 hectares, start 2024-07-15, out 2024-10-01, north of Sandy Bay (north of McGaffin Fire) along Churchill River.
Joined to the Dunn Fire: IS 352, 28,202 hectares.
ID 479, 24LA-Kraus Fire, lightning strike, 80,445 hectares, start 2024-08-14, out 2024-10-04, west of Flanagan Fire.
There are more fires west and north.
Fire ban Saskatchewan 2024 July 11 to 25 (lifted 26).
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