July 15 sunrise through forest fire smoke (04:31 - 04:40).
Tent site showing work done to level it on arrival.
Canoe ready to load where I can do so from the side, much easier and safer than where I landed yesterday with only the stern tied.
Mosquitoes are very bothersome when breaking camp, hence the headnet.
As I head southwest there is heavy smoke coming from the west. Visibility is only about 500 metres and I cannot see landmarks so must solely depend on map and compass.
Smoke clears significantly after travelling five km when I stop for breakfast. Ironically in the presence of forest fire smoke, I have to make a small smoky fire to shoo annoying blackflies. As usual I douse the fire with lots of water using the bailer.
Approaching my next campsite, old camp 12 which I had hoped to reach yesterday before becoming windbound.
July 16 at least 50 each of cormorants and pelicans land near camp at the point as they did the last time I was here. This must be a favourite fishing spot.
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Summary:
Heavy forest fire smoke from both east and west. Jeanette texts information about forest fire status, identifying three affecting my area, one on my route. Travel 16 km to set up camp 16 at old camp 12. Hot weather and very bothersome flies. Many cormorants and pelicans again land beside camp.
July 15:
Up before the 03:00 alarm, there is a light west wind bringing heavy smoke with poor visibility of only 500 metres. So there are forest fires both in the east and west. Because I cannot see landmarks, I must depend on compass and map to head in the correct direction. Paddling five km to reach more sheltered shore before stopping for breakfast, ironically I have to light a small smoky fire to shoo bothersome blackflies. It is hot, at least 30°C. Reaching the location where I would have to turn to reach old camp 13, the wind and waves against me are picking up. Undecided whether to head there or continue on to old camp 12, I choose the latter and after some hard paddling the going gets easier. I was so undecided that I made two false starts towards camp 13 island. Within two km of camp 12 the smoke clears considerably. After travelling 16 km, upon landing at what now becomes camp 16, the wind blows strong from the southwest instead of west which explains the clearance of smoke. Speaking out loud, I give thanks for clear air and for reaching camp before getting windbound. The campsite looks the same except the top layer of spruce boughs at the Tarp shelter area is dry and brown. After lunch it is time to set up camp, including levelling the tent site better with several armloads of moss.
At 13:07 I check for satellite phone messages. In response to my phone call yesterday there are three texts from Jeanette that list several fires, including the one to the northeast from which I am just retreating. There is a new fire, small so far, on this lake on my way out between old camps 11 and 12. The smoke from the west is probably from a big fire 40 km to the west. The latter fire location is reassuring, but not so the one on my way out, although it is apparently listed as small. Because of the new fire on my route, I now plan to leave this lake with only short stay camps.
Supper is oriental noodles (mixed with Parmesan cheese and sardines), salad (now-ripe red currants and fireweed flowers) and the usual protein bar and cool water. Hot and sweaty I have a much needed bath tormented by very bothersome flies. To the tent early, the plan is to update my journal; however I am too hot so lay unclothed on the bed sheet to cool off but fall asleep. Waking at 20:00 I decide to officially go to bed. Sleeping well, by morning I am in the fleece shell wearing pyjamas.
July 16:
July 16 at camp 16. Up by 05:00 the first priority is catching fish for supper, landing an 18" pike off the nearby point before breakfast of fresh bannock with the usual protein bar, mixed seeds, peanut butter and hot water. It is 25°C, calm and smoky when I phone Jeanette at 09:30 to let her know I plan to be at the big falls (old camp 10) tomorrow weather permitting and then up the river canyon to the lake of old camp 9 in another two days if possible. By lunchtime it is 28°C with smoke at all horizons. Because the flies are so bad, I take lunch and the Bug Tent to set up at the peninsula. After a bath, my clothes are draped to dry on a dead birch tree laying on shore. I plan to eat in the Bug Tent. Just getting the food laid out, it starts to sprinkle rain so I have to gather everything up, get dressed and walk back to camp. The rain holds off and I eat lunch at shore near the fireplace (bannock, protein bar, almonds, cheese, vitamins, gum). When it rains again I set up the Bug Tent under the Tarp shelter and get inside to update my journal and do some puzzles. Hot and sweating I am not wearing any clothes. It is very smoky now. Some cloud cover and another rain shower cool the temperature to 24°C and finally the darn flies disperse. Tired, I am in bed by 19:00.