Although I had planned a 16 week stay, my 2022 canoe trip starting on May 29 ends on August 17 after 12 weeks because of two forest fires on my route.
The return trip follows most of the same inbound route, along the east side of central Saskatchewan and west side of Manitoba as far north as the Churchill River. This area is covered with northern boreal forest underlaid with a thin layer of soil on the rock of the Canadian Shield, much of it completely exposed. Beautiful country! One portage I hoped to take to reach the Churchill River was not passable and I could not find a safe nearby place to set up camp in order to clear the long 2½ km trail; I had planned to then canoe downstream before starting the return.
This year there is only one black bear encounter, with no negative effects to either party. I am lucky to see several interesting animals including moose. The instance that makes the deepest impression though is that of a mink surfacing on a rock spit where I was about to have a bath at camp 24. He lands, scampers up beside me, we look at each other while I keep perfectly still. He finally decides it is safe so goes back to the point and hauls his catch, a burbot longer than he, dragging it held in his mouth beside his body. He disappears into the bush on an often frequented trail to eat his meal in peace. An awesome experience. At the same location a bald eagle all of a sudden dives down to make a pass at a fish in the lake nearby. She grabs it but then fumbles and the fish drops into the water. The eagle swoops back around twice over the spot before flying away empty handed. At camp 16 several times I witness at least 50 white pelicans contrasted with the same number of pitch black cormorants landing together, the pelicans taking advantage of the diving cormorants to snatch an easy meal.
Fishing is excellent, catching 37 walleye and 36 northern pike, easily satisfying my need for four fish meals per week. Walleye success is excellent, especially at camps near four waterfalls but I am lucky also to camp at two spots where the fishing in the channels from shore exceeds my expectations. Most suppers are supplemented with salad, either greens (fireweed, or early on leaves or catkins of birch, alder, willow) or berries (red currants, raspberries, bunchberries, blueberries). At one camp I harvest more than my share of Saskatoon berries, eaten at every meal plus while picking, turning fingers, lips (and scat) deep purple.
Distance paddled is 376 km, including 35 km extra searching for campsites or escaping wind. Number of portages is 21, for a total length of 4950 metres ranging from 10 to 600 metres, a relatively short distance. This year because of high water levels, some portages are flooded, one 600 metre portage at camp 5 in particular requires wading down a 200 metre stretch while carrying loads and pulling the canoe, not a pleasant walk repeated multiple times. I dub it "river road" while humming the Crystal Gayle song of that name; the "Yo, heave ho!" Volga Boatmen song would have been equally apt.
Fortunately there is not a repeat of the multiple terribly hot heat waves of last season. Mosquitoes, blackflies and others were particularly bad this year requiring the use of mosquito coils in either tent much of the time and headnet outdoors. The bugs are a small price to pay compared to last year's high temperatures. Strong winds force stretches of hard paddling, making me windbound often. At times I paddle continuously for hours to make sure I do not become windbound, not even stopping for breakfast or lunch sometimes.
Although experiencing some smoke in the air at various times, I have no smoke inhalation issues like last year when I was surrounded by smoke constantly and could not stop coughing. Conversely there are two major forest fires this year that affect my trip. The first starts at the Churchill River close to my route where I see smoke seven days before reported on the web site. At camp 14 I am within a few kilometres of the very active fire where I witness flames consuming trees, the strong wind spreading embers to multiple spots towards my area; smoke is belching up high into the sky. Because the fire is so close I decide it is time to retreat. I am concerned about thick smoke coming from the opposite direction but Jeanette is able to decipher that the source is probably some distance up the Churchill at another fire. Jeanette also informs me of another fire indicated on the map close to the Churchill River directly on my route as I leave camp 14; I pass the area with no smoke seen. Jeanette reports that the second major fire though is directly in my path much farther south on both sides of a lake narrows I will paddle through and is indicated to be active and growing. She advises not getting too close until she sees reports about where the fire is headed and hopefully when it is safe to proceed. Jeanette also reports that the Churchill River fire that I fled is growing much bigger, confirming that it was good that I left. By the time I stay at camp 22 for a few days Jeanette says the fire map shows the narrows fire is "contained" so it should be safe to proceed. When I reach the narrows after leaving camp 23 I pass through where the fire jumped the lake with still many smoldering hot spots puffing up smoke. At camp 24 south of the fire area as I look back, smoke starts billowing up high in the sky so I am glad that I decided to continue heading out to my vehicle. I really appreciate Jeanette's expertise with deciphering the fire maps for Saskatchewan and Manitoba; this illustrates the value of new technology that we did not have a few years ago.
New replacement equipment proves its worth and includes: Helinox Incline Festival Chair (finally a sturdy light weight collapsible chair), Silky Big Boy 2000 Professional (a sturdy light weight folding saw with a very sharp effective blade, better than the bow saws I have carried for years), Great-West Metal Ltd 18" sheet metal Air Tight Heater wood stove (the fourth replacement, each lasting for 10 years), Marmot Men's PreCip Eco Full Zip Pants XL (replacement rain pants that can be donned while wearing boots), Luxspire Bike Casual Crossbody Messenger Bag writing bag (the best bag I have ever used), various replacement small equipment.
This being the third year of the COVID-19 pandemic, now on a welcome downward trend, I again selected a route that requires minimal involvement of third parties. After returning home I have now received the fifth COVID-19 vaccination, probably looking to receive an annual booster as with the flu shot.
A follow-up report on my return home is in an "Afterword", with the camp 25 post. It summarizes the extent of the forest fires affecting my route, and the diagnosis of my shoulder injury occurring when I fall on the first portage.
As always, no matter the problems faced, I look back fondly on the trip and forward to next season's journey. Although it is great to be back home, I never feel better than when in the north country away from "civilization".