Sunrise through heavy forest fire smoke July 17 (04:48).
On my way south in presence of thick clouds and smoke most notable at horizons.
Much blue sky and white cumulus with a reprieve from smoke as I approach the waterfalls where I will exit the lake.
Smoke is definitely back by July 18 at camp 17 (old camp 10).
Clover flowers and leaves for a supper salad.
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Summary:
Good fishing for walleye at the falls but I decide to stay only two days because of fire risk and the fact that it will take a day to get up the river canyon. Forest fire smoke obvious at all horizons. High temperatures and bothersome mosquitoes. Distance travelled 20 km including the 150 metre portage at the big waterfalls of old camp 10.
July 17:
Up at 02:40 before the alarm, there is a very strong wind which does not bode well but I pack anyway. Very bothersome mosquitoes force me to wear the headnet while breaking camp and to forgo breakfast. By the time I depart the strength of the wind has abated. From my journal: "Steady paddling, a quartering wind only occasionally helpful. The wind gradually decreases, which is decent of it and I give thanks." Even though a less direct route, I angle over to the lee mainland to get some shelter from the wind. At least 30°C, I am hot and sweating. Once better protected I stop for breakfast. The distinctive whop-whop-whop sound of an out of sight helicopter makes me wonder if fire protection is being set up for any cabins. After successfully making the turn that I missed spotting on the journey in, I take a shortcut and ground on an unseen boulder in shallow water but manage to backpaddle and wiggle off without having to get out of the canoe. I am glad when the big waterfalls marking the next portage appear in the distance, now paddling directly into the wind. It is more difficult to land and portage up the steep slope beside the falls than it was when heading the opposite direction. If the rock shore was wet it would not be safe. I give thanks that I do not have to land farther away and have to cut a trail to reach the portage. The little falls beside the portage is just a trickle now showing that water levels have dropped since I was here earlier. Carrying gear up the 150 metre path is hot work; my handkerchief is sweat soaked from mopping face and neck. Reaching old camp 10, the site appears the same except the spruce boughs defining the Tarp shelter area are now brown and needle-free. Soon after landing I stretch the clothesline to hang damp and wet clothing and bath towel. The latter used yesterday was almost dry on top of the canoe load by the time I stopped for breakfast but it looked like rain so I decided to place the towel in the Rubber Pack; however I accidentally dropped the towel in the lake. Mosquitoes are bothersome so after putting up the tent and laying out sleep gear I light a five cm length of mosquito coil; I have never used as many coils and hope there are enough to complete the trip. Before supper I have a much needed and very welcome bath. Right now I cannot see or smell smoke so I optimistically plan to stay at least three days. Distance travelled today is 20 km including the 150 metre portage, a weary day's travel having to go out of my way to avoid wind. Temperature at 20:00 bedtime is 29°C. I sleep okay after having to rearrange bedding, swapping sides of the tent with other gear. By morning I am wearing pyjamas, snuggled in fleece shell partially covered with sleeping bag. One mosquito came into the tent with me but frantic bashing eliminated the threat.
July 18:
Up by 05:30, there are dozens of mosquitoes under the tent fly some getting inside the tent when I exit. Aie! Later I light another mosquito coil. It is 18°C and calm, smoky with a ruby red ball of sun at sunrise. Mosquitoes are bothersome but not bad enough to make me wear the headnet. Because there is no breeze it feels hotter than it is with camp being in direct sunshine so I am soon hot and sweaty. There is no really good shade. The medium tarp hung white underside out from the front of the Tarp shelter helps a bit. At lunchtime it is 25°C in the shade but very hot in the sun. After a refreshing bath I am soon hot and sweaty again. Flies are now bothersome. With Jeanette's report of a fire near my route and smoke at all horizons I now consider moving on tomorrow though it would be better if there was some cooling wind for the two portages. By 12:40 it is 30°C, 32°C soon after. I keep moving to sit in whatever shade I can find as the sun progresses across the sky, no sooner sitting down when I have to move again as the sun finds a hole through tree tops. At 14:15 I decide to paddle to the island at the falls to fish. For bear safety I take the Kitchen Barrel in the canoe; the other two barrels are tied to trees beside the tent. I will be out of sight of camp below the falls. At least I will get a respite from the sun and hopefully a bit of a breeze. Before catching two 15" fish, I am able to walk across shallow water running towards one of the falls to pick red currants growing amongst the rock. One fish is a walleye, the other a sauger (quite similar in appearance, the same genus but different species). After a scrumptious supper I prepack to move on tomorrow. This is not a good spot to be if I have to get out because of fire as I have to go up the deep canyon requiring two portages, one very steep.