Nine common loons swim past just before I leave camp 18 at 07:27.
The base of moss used to level the tent site yesterday, good enough for last night's bed but a bit like being in a boat rolling up and down when I move.
Moving up the channel approaching the site for camp 19. Steven and I camped on the small island (first photo) in 1992 when it was more heavily treed; since then it was razed by forest fire and the lake has risen to place much of it under water.
The nylon tent at camp 19 on July 21 is soaked with very welcome heavy rain.
Steady rain cools temperatures so on July 22 I erect the canvas Tent and stove.
The Tarp shelter is tucked into a grove of spruce trees with a toasty fire near the front. Firewood large and small is hauled in multiple times. Off to the side in an open area is the location of the first fireplace used on July 20. Later I scatter the dead coals into nearby brush and replace the turned back layer of moss around the old fireplace.
My second light shirt is cremated after becoming totally irredeemable with sweat and dirt, especially so on the last two portages.
The route from the Tarp shelter past the parked canoe to the point of the peninsula 100 metres distant. The canoe sits over a patch of ripening blueberries providing enough fruit for two meals. This is on mainland so I am conscious of the likelihood at some point of bears arriving to feast on berries.
Clouds bearing rain on the afternoon of July 21. The upper photo looks up the bay in the direction I will be heading when I leave camp. The lower photo down the channel to the small island I passed on route to camp 19.
A catch of a 9" perch, 12" pike and 14" walleye that makes a tasty chowder. I think the first time I have caught all three species in one excursion.
Three walleye (one 14", two 15") completely fill the frypan ... mmm good!
July 24, a beautiful day after raining for two days. Foggy at 05:51 facing up the bay.
The small bay beside my peninsula at 05:53 where I caught the three species of fish.
Looking down the channel at 05:53 where the fog is still clearing.
Midmorning at 09:30 after the fog has completely lifted.
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Summary:
Poor tent site and bothersome gnats hasten leaving camp 18 after only one day; wind is still from the same direction and I am lucky to escape becoming windbound again. The site for camp 19 proves to be excellent for shelter, fireplace, tent sites, fishing, berries. Finally have a much needed bath five days since the previous one. Welcome heavy rain for two days cools temperatures so I erect canvas Tent and stove. Bugs are bothersome again requiring use of headnet. Bear visits the Tent just as I am turning in on July 24, which affirms my desire to leave the next day; bears will be foraging for ripening berries now. Jeanette sends me a text message to call her because my route is blocked by forest fire; I should not move too far south before she advises me of safety. Jeanette asks me to check for messages more frequently and to make sure to camp where I can be flown out by float plane if necessary.
July 20:
Up by 05:30, late because I am not sure if I will move on today; if I do leave it is not far to go to the next planned site although I have never camped there so it could prove to be a dud. From my journal: "Slept OK. Bed has only one comfortable position which would probably change as the thick moss I added gets compressed in different places, especially as I kneel and move about. It's like being in a boat rolling up and down. So far I am siding with staying another day so no hurry. Start fire to boil raw water. Nine loons talk amongst each other as they swim past near shore. Very smoky. Gnats are bad, fireplace smoke not chasing them away so have headnet on. Between non-ideal tent site and gnats I decide to move on so I break camp. Paddle with headnet still in place as the bugs are still bad. Aie!" Once I hit the end of this side of the island where I had to retreat yesterday because of strong wind, it is safe to remove the headnet. The wind is moderate and from the same direction that forced me to reverse course. I voice out loud how it will be awful if I have to return to the same camp that I just left. It is hard paddling but I make it across the sidewind to the mainland large peninsula which juts farther into the wind; there are enough indentations and little bays that give some respite. There is one possible campsite location, but I hope not to have to find out. I manage to paddle the two km to the point and give a big sigh of relief. Turning downwind I give thanks for being able to make it. There is now a strong tailwind. Yay! If I had departed any later I may have very well had to return to the same camp.
When I reach the small target peninsula I have to continue farther than ideal to find a small nook in which to tie up the canoe. Distance travelled today is only four km, finally reaching what was my intended camp yesterday. I have observed this area when paddling past but never stopped to investigate. There is a large somewhat open area from the point inland 100 metres that will not provide shelter from wind. It is overlaid with moss, blueberry bushes and grass in between small areas of alders and some spruce and pine trees. Inland another 50 metres I spot a nice looking Tarp shelter site at the junction to mixed stands of short and tall spruce. Before that is flattish rock overlaid by reindeer lichen with some bare spots for a fireplace. I will have to turn back some of the humus to create a safe place for a fire; it will be a challenge to find enough stones to border the fire. There is a sheltered tent site another 50 metres farther inland. At 10:10 I activate the SPOT™ GPS device. I start to unload the canoe but hunger makes me decide to eat before doing anything else. However, blackflies, gnats? and mosquitoes are bothersome so I build a fireplace, unpack the Kitchen Barrel and put the pots on to boil raw water. Sitting on the slope just above the fireplace I manage to finish breakfast just as it starts to rain. Having already spread out the large Tarp at the shelter site I cover open gear with the medium tarp. There is still unloaded gear in the canoe which is getting damp. I get the Tarp shelter up and gear stored underneath. The rain stops and I finish unloading the canoe and park it up the steep slope over a patch of blueberries on some level ground. Next I level the base for the nylon tent, cutting some brush and filling holes with moss. After the tent is up and gear laid out inside, it is threatening rain again. Luckily I manage to tie the two barrels to trees without getting very wet. Before securing the barrels I aliquot grub for next week, the first week of month 3. I am impressed that the Clif® Builders® bars have stayed firm through the hot weather.
Assembling fishing gear I manage to catch a 15" pike at the point which faces up the bay in the direction I will leave when moving on. The rain is heavy enough to quickly get me damp so I return to the Tarp shelter to don my rain jacket. Fishing again, in short order I get my favourite "Len Thompson™ Original Red & White" spoon snagged. With the rain continuing there is no way I plan to take the canoe out to retrieve the lure; after moving along the shore to try different angles to save the lure I pull the line by hand until it breaks leaving behind the leader and lure. Back to the Tarp shelter I get another new leader and a similar "Yellow & Black" lure. It takes a while but after moving along the shore farther inland I land a nice 24" pike having to be very careful when casting because of trees right beside me. While preparing supper there is a heavy downpour of rain forcing me to move everything to the Tarp shelter to eat at 18:25. Bothersome gnats accompany me beneath the Tarp while I am eating and updating my journal with yesterday's activities. Smoke does not deter the little buggers so I wear a bandana draped under my hat as a scarf. The fire is almost extinguished by the rain but there is just enough ember on a larger piece of wood after the downfall slows to start flames again with mossy branches. Not wanting to take any chances on being harassed in my sleep, I rush to the tent to ignite a mosquito coil. Back under the Tarp I wash dishes and manage to dry them at the fireplace in between showers, some of which contain hail. No bath since July 18, I have another simple wash of face and neck dipping my handkerchief in hot water then rinsing it afterwards in the lake. Usually I would use hot water and washcloth in a collapsible basin but because of the rain I do not have enough hot water. As I get ready for bed in the tent, no clothes on, I realize I forgot the pee can which is in a pack in the rear vestibule. I do not want to open the rear door to fetch the can or to exit the tent to get it from outside. Either way there is a big risk of allowing numerous mosquitoes inside as there are many sheltering underneath the tent fly. My first thought is to use the canteen lid for pee, but I will have to open the door multiple times during the night to empty it, increasing the chances of admitting mosquitoes. Finally I decide to drink the remaining water in the canteen so I can use it for tonight's pee container. Tomorrow I can rinse and use for water again. The rain and cloud have cooled temperatures so I am wearing pyjamas snuggled in the fleece shell by 20:30. I sleep well, later my feet in the sleeping bag. I give thanks for the rain having moderated the heat and hope that it helps suppress fire conditions. I still have not brought my journal up to date for July 19, let alone for today's activities.
July 21:
Rainfall starts before I arise at 05:30, sometimes heavy but giving a few breaks which helps when doing chores. Wind is strong and gusty that keeps up all day, but is fortunately from a favourable direction, temperature 15°C, very humid with rain. If I wanted to travel, I would be windbound. Before a hot bannock breakfast I move the fireplace close to the Tarp shelter where the heat from the flames is very welcome. I cut some spruce branches to layer in the one metre space between Tarp shelter and fireplace. Luckily there is a rock base for the fireplace and a small knoll behind to reflect warmth. The shelter is tucked into a copse of spruce trees which provide protection around the Tarp, a cozy spot. If the wind was from the north or east though it would be a problem. The fire must be repeatedly stoked, so too collecting firewood is ongoing, the bigger the better. I cannot bear to wear the light shirt which is still quite damp from yesterday. Anyway there is a vendor label that uncomfortably rubs my neck; I would like to remove it but cannot get at it even with a seam ripper so burn it in the fireplace. The heavy shirt is much more comfortable. I string a clothesline beneath the Tarp to dry other items sheltered from the rain. By lunchtime temperature rises to 21°C but the fire feels good in the continuing rain. I finally catch up with writing my journal for July 19 and 20 and updating maps. In the presence of ongoing rain and strong wind my plan for a bath is not going to occur. After lunch I hope to catch fish for supper but it is pointless to try from the point or the side channel because of the wind. There is a small sheltered shallow bay out of the wind beside camp which is my only option. There is only one spot where I can stand on a bit of bare rock, limited in how I cast so have to be careful not to get snagged on shore or on the water plants in the bay. Surprisingly I catch three fish (14" walleye, 12" pike, 9" perch). Thinking I would be lucky to catch a pike, I give thanks for it and special thanks for the walleye and perch. I also give thanks for a good campsite with fireplace close by. The previous location of camp 18 would be miserable today. I am wearing my rain jacket otherwise I would be soaked; lower pant legs get wet in the undergrowth. When rain pauses I dash to do any chores (fetching more wood, picking blueberries, stoking the fire, bathroom break, returning some gear to tent). I scope out a location to erect the canvas Tent, and find spots with soil for the stove and trees for poles. As I pick blueberries my thoughts go to black bears wanting to do the same thing. I have seen two old bear scats nearby and certain places with well defined bear footprints worn into the moss in the typical toed-in fashion. At 17:00 supper of fish chowder is ready, a hot hearty meal. Standing near the fire sure feels good, especially back to the flames, just not downwind or too close as I do not want any burn holes. Unfortunately I do get a small hole in the back of my shirt, and I see one new small hole in the Tarp. I vow to erect the canvas Tent and stove tomorrow if it stays like this. It sure is wonderful to have cooler fresher air absent smoke. Mosquitoes were bothersome early morning but fewer as the temperature dropped to 13°C, 16°C under the Tarp. At 18:50 mosquitoes are increasing in numbers again. The longer I remain outside the more likely one or more will come into the tent on my clothes. After carrying gear to tent, I return to extinguish the fire. Just after entering the tent, it rains again. In my pyjamas and fleece shell right away, a nice change, tired, I sleep well. Later the sleeping bag covers my feet and sometimes my whole body.
July 22:
Up by 04:30 to ongoing rain I do not eat until almost finished setting up canvas Tent. Temperature is 14°C, completely overcast with light rain. There are two rain showers while setting up the Tent. After clearing and levelling a spot for the Tent I fell and limb spruce trees for poles from an area farther inland on the peninsula so as not to thin any windbreak for camp. The felled trees provide enough boughs for the Tent doorway. I also have to saw enough stovewood and split some kindling to get the stove started. The outside fire is started early to provide embers which make it easy to light the stove. The ground is uneven so I gather three big armloads of stair-step moss to finish levelling the base beneath the two floor tarps. Next I transfer all gear from the nylon tent. From my journal: "As I work mosquitoes are bothersome, bodies piling up." It is 10:50 so I eat a late breakfast with lunch. The stove is started and mosquito coil lit while I dine under the Tarp shelter. After eating, I finish chores for the Tent: spruce boughs for outside the Tent door, finish tying roof tarp, tighten ridge rope, more stovewood poles, stovewood, kindling and birchbark tinder. Other chores are completed next. Very bothersome mosquitoes and blackflies force me to wear the headnet. The fish in the channel are not cooperating again today but I land two pike (17" 18") in the little bay. There are not enough ripe blueberries so I pick fireweed flowers instead; I have to share with bees who are busy gathering nectar so leave some flowers for them. I have to fetch more firewood, a never ending task; at least now with the stove I will burn far less wood. With the damp conditions the past two days it is wonderful to be able to hang up bedding and clothes to dry in the toasty Tent. I would love to have a bath, the last one being July 18, but the blackflies are way too bad so will have to do with a hot water basin wash in the Tent. Fish chowder is cooked on the stove by 17:30. I am sitting with no clothes on in Tent, window and door screens open. There are many mosquitoes and blackflies on the screen door. I get out some new clothes for tomorrow: clean Tilley hat (and pack the dry dirty one used eight weeks, the half way point), heavy socks (after burning another holey pair), the first month's used heavy shirt to double with the current one (after burning another light shirt). From my journal: "Aie! With so many bugs, have to get dressed to go out to empty the dish water and close the window. 13°C and raining when I am outside. Already put out fireplace. Back in Tent, no clothes again, I only have enough hot water for a handkerchief wash. Letting stove die, but temperature inside still 19°C. 20:00, falling asleep in the chair. Time for bed."
July 23:
It rained a lot last night. On arising it is very damp, drizzly, overcast, cool and calm at 13°C. I slept well last night. Before breakfast I do some outside chores: split kindling, get more raw water on the stove to boil, initiate the SPOT™ GPS device, open Tent windows, fetch more stovewood poles and birchbark tinder. I also trim the 100 metre path to the end of the peninsula so that I can walk in sandals unclothed through prickly junipers to have a bath. At 07:15 I am sitting in the chair wearing only moccasins as bannock bakes on the stove while I update journal and do some puzzles and reading. Fortunately there were no more mosquitoes in the Tent last night after getting the last one; there were at least 20 on the screen door though. They are waiting in force outside when I open the door this morning. By 07:50 I am eating hot bannock. After breakfast I walk to the point to finally have a wonderful and much needed bath. I am glad to bathe before the blackflies get too bad. My ankles are rashy from sweat after five days since the last bath. I also rinse the longest worn socks in the lake to be dried in the Tent over the stove. At 13:20 I am eating another fresh bannock baked on the stove; I need to replenish my supply. The stove lid nut on the hinge bolt has fallen into the stove; I hope it can be rescued when I later empty the ashes. Outside the sky is still overcast with dark cloud. After lunch I light a mosquito coil before exiting to do more chores: pick fireweed flowers for salad, fetch firewood, saw stovewood. I take down the mostly dry nylon tent but have to wear the headnet because blackflies are bad; they are so much worse at the tent site because of thick grass and brush around it. By suppertime there is some blue sky and white cumulus and temperature has risen to 20°C. I let the stove die for the night. When I go outside to close the window and to drop the canvas door (tied back fully open all day for fresh air) I walk to the point to check the weather, now half blue sky but still many dark clouds. The light breeze does not do anything to limit the still quite bothersome blackflies and mosquitoes. I have blackfly bites here and there on my body. When I return to the Tent I sure hope I do not bring in any more mosquitoes. Untying my boots, a mosquito crawls out from the dirt between the lower laces, bugger! Before bedtime I sew a hole in the headnet caused by getting caught in branches. I give thanks for the comfort of the Tent and stove the past few days. This weather and that of the first week affirm why I bring the extra portage load. It is something to remember when I think about leaving them at home to reduce carries. I cannot have it both ways! I could probably move on tomorrow but will stay another day. The Tent has cooled considerably and I crawl into bed in pyjamas and inside the fleece shell; by morning I am also partially covered by the sleeping bag.
July 24 Sunday:
Up by 05:00, it is 10°C in the Tent so I start the stove right away while still in my pyjamas and put water on to heat. After sleep gear hung in the Tent and getting dressed I exit to see there is a heavy dew. It is very misty, mostly clear above and calm. As usual I initialize the SPOT™, open the window and empty and rinse the pee can. I take some photos east and west showing the mist and then saw more stovewood. While eating breakfast after taking off clothes I kill two mosquitoes that came in with me. I plan to leave tomorrow so pack the tools before taking the stove outside to the first fireplace to dump the coals on the bare rock. After pushing away the stove contents bit by bit I finally find the missing nut for the lid sitting under the very last of the ashes. This time I place the nut on the top side so if it loosens I will more likely notice it. What it really needs is a second lock nut. Next I assemble fishing gear to try my luck at the point casting into the channel. On the first and second cast I land two walleye (14", 15"). After several more attempts, I switch to a different lure and catch another 15" walleye. I am getting hungrier so am long past the stage of one fish being adequate. Pleasantly surprised at my success as I was expecting a pike, I give thanks for the bounty. Gnats and flies are quite bothersome. I pack the stove, fetch firewood for supper and identify a spot to store the Tent poles and stovewood.
It is Sunday so I check for satellite phone messages at 08:30. There is a text from Jeanette: "Call me. urok4 fires. Fire at lake narrows on way out. No way thru." When I reach Jeanette she asks me to check for messages more often than once per week, starting next Tuesday and every other day after. She says to make sure when I camp to be at a location where a float plane can land. Jeanette also suggests camping no farther south than the south end of the next big lake. I was hoping to at least reach the north end. Aie!
By lunchtime back in the Tent it is sunny and warm at 18°C with only a light breeze. At least one mosquito came in the Tent with me so I will use a mosquito coil later. I mount new line on the fishing reel. Also I find an extra nut and a lock washer in my Repair Kit to better secure the stove lid bolt; this hardware happened to still be in the kit as a spare for the old bow saw no longer used. After doing one puzzle while eating I decide to go to the point for a bath. By the time I walk the 100 metres wearing just my Crocs™ sandals the breeze cools me so much I no longer feel the need so settle with a fresh air "bath". Back in the Tent I work on three more puzzles. Temperature now 23°C, cloudy looking like it might rain, supper is cooked and eaten outside. The meal is delicious, a pan chocked-full of fried walleye, salad (fireweed flowers and a few almost ripe gooseberries), orzo, protein bar and hot water. After supper, fire extinguished, I prepack as much as possible in the Tent. I notice my right shoulder is bothering me more now, maybe because it is getting more rest. From my journal: "Just as I get ready for bed a bear snorts just outside the Tent in its usual fashion when startled. Aie! In pyjamas I pull on my boots, strap on belt with knife and bear spray, grab gun and spare ammo. Stepping outside there is no sign of the bear. It was surprised and gave the usual huffing grunt before tearing off. All the more reason now to move on tomorrow. Bears will be foraging ripening blueberries." Back in the Tent I hope no mosquitoes got inside. As I fall asleep it starts raining. My last thought, the bear on my mind, is that I hope I can leave tomorrow.