Early morning June 10 sunrise and campfire at camp 3 (03:45, 03:49, 03:50).
Looking back at 06:11 to the camp 3 site as I depart, the old burn area extending as far as the eye can see.
Paddling down the long lake before finally reaching the outlet and landing at 15:30, a long day. I swing in to land just above fast rapids. Water levels are high, swamping the old fireplace.
My path to fetch drinking water.
I park the canoe just off the portage trail and raise the Tarp shelter, in front of which I build a new fireplace on dry land. Note the long pole placed over one end of the Tarp lower anchor rope so that the trail is not obstructed.
Fresh bannock baking at the fireplace.
Some of my firewood and stovewood pole supply.
After using the nylon tent the first night, I erect the canvas Tent. The wood stove feels welcome when cool wet weather sets in.
The medium tarp erected to provide shelter from rain when sawing stovewood.
After unsuccessfully trying to fish from campside shore, I paddle directly across the river with good success (and no more snagging and losing lures).
My first walleye of the trip, fried for supper ... mmm good!
On June 11, I take the tools and walk down the portage trail to clear any trees fallen over the path. I plan then to portage the canoe and paddle gear to the lower end, looking forward to good walleye fishing at the lower rapids. To my dismay after 200 metres of the 600 metre trail, I am stopped by the river running down the trail. I walk a short way farther along the side but eventually reach an impasse with the river on one side and cliff on the other, with no way to cut a dry trail to the side.
On June 12, I paddle across the river to check out the possibility of a new trail on that side. Walking through the bush to the lower end of the rapids, it would be possible to cut a trail over a few days on dry land, inland from the river. There are old woodland caribou trails and scat. I don a hat scarf to shoo bothersome blackflies.
Video of "river road" portage trail. Note how loud the rapids are.
On June 13, wearing wading gear, I walk down the old portage trail, finding that the waterflow ends after 200 metres, so at least the river runs down the trail only for the middle third of the path. As I am wading the portage, I start humming the Crystal Gayle song "River Road" (written by Sylvia Fricker Tyson 1976). Blackflies are very bothersome so I put on a headnet. I soon realize that I am not going to want to portage the canoe for walleye fishing and have to wade down "river road" every day to fish. Too bad as I was looking forward to the fishing at the base of the rapids.
A new lighter all plastic flyswatter (to kill mosquitoes in tent). My old wire-handled swatter was completely covered with duct tape patches over the years.
Nice weather at 10:39 on June 15, suddenly becomes the opposite at 11:24 blowing in surprisingly quickly and continuing through the next day.
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Summary:
Travel 26 km, a long day, the last six km against a strong headwind. High water levels mean I can land directly at camp right at the flooded fireplace. Rude surprise of river overflowing next portage. Successfully fish across the river from camp but not as good as the anticipated walleye fishing at the end of the trail would have been. Ready access to fresh salad of alder and willow catkins and leaves, birch leaves, spruce tips, plus some dandelion flowers and fireweed shoots. Determine it would be possible to cut a trail over three days on the other side of the river but after discovering "river road" only covers the middle third of the 600 metre portage decide to hopefully pull the partially loaded canoe down it. Hard to find a comfortable sleeping position for my injured shoulder. Catch my first walleye of the trip. Overcast rainy weather leads to bothersome bugs (blackflies, mosquitoes, sandflies) and use of headnet.
June 10:
Up by 03:00, away by 06:00 in good time. A fire feels good in the cool 10°C. I stop at two nearby spots to check for a replacement campsite for camp 3 with more shade and shelter for my return trip. One location is not good, but the other would do. A light tailwind progresses to moderate then strong during the morning. Stopping several times for a stretch and pee break, I keep my eye out for campsites but there is a dearth of anything reasonable. My luck runs out and hit a strong headwind that makes for difficult paddling the last six km of the journey. I stop for a welcome lunch break on a small island before having to really get into the struggle. At the end of the day's trip I land at two different spots on the grassy upper meadow, the first being very wet so move on farther where I tie up and carry the Rubber Pack to the campsite at the head of the trail below the meadow. There I check for a closer but safe landing right at camp. The water level is quite high and the rapids swift. Back to the canoe I paddle along the shore but far enough out to not ground on boulders and land just below the old now underwater fireplace but bow first to get out of the fast current quickly. This makes unloading more difficult but am glad to be here. After unloading and hauling the canoe on shore I initiate the SPOT™ at 15:45, over 12 hours since rising. It has been a long day of steady paddling with minimal stops having travelled 26 km, the last six km against a strong headwind. Still, a better than expected time and give thanks for a gorgeous day with a good tailwind for most of the journey. I have averaged at least four km per hour instead of the usual three km per hour.
Setting up camp, I move the flooded fireplace stones to a new location on dry land in a safe location underlaid by stony ground. As I work I keep walking to the fire to shoo bothersome blackflies. There are recent bear claw marks on two balsam fir trees beside the tent. During today's trip I saw one flock of migrating Canada geese and several bald eagles. The past few nights I have heard migrating sandhill cranes high above, with their distinctive high pitched strident rattling rolling call. After tent and Tarp shelter are up and gear stowed, time for a late supper and in bed by 21:30. From my journal: "Have a problem finding a level enough bed location, trying three positions; only one left! Sleep well, tired and weary. Thought I'd be sorer; maybe shoulder is on the mend though still aches badly at night and don't have full pain-free range of motion. Before bed tied two barrels to trees beside tent, finally figuring out not a good idea quite so close, so prep two more trees and move farther away." Rains a few times⅔ during the night and early morning.
June 11:
Up by 05:30, my shoulder did not bother sleep as much as usual but I was weary and late to bed. It is 12°C and rain that started last evening continues intermittently all day. Breakfast includes hot bannock which is from one lot that I made containing double butter, no shortening, and it is definitely tastier. Firewood must be fetched above the steep 60° slope overlooking camp where I fell two dead spruce. Anxious to check on the portage trail and to get set for walleye fishing in the lower rapids, I head down the trail with tools to clear the path. At 200 metres of the full 600 metres, I get a rude surprise. From my journal: "River overflowing down the trail running fast and six inches deep. Aie! Walk alongside trail through the bush and brush which grows up to the steep almost vertical slope along most of the trail. At one point the whole side of the trail is under water so cross over to the other side closer to the creek. Soon it is too wet underfoot so back to camp. Had visions of fishing for walleye at the foot of creek. Aie!"
I set up the canvas Tent and move all gear to it. From my journal: "Try fishing into the creek from one spot on shore that I can reach in the grassy meadow above camp that is not too wet. The lure snags and can't be budged. Return to camp to fetch leather mitts to pull the line which breaks, losing the leader and lure, a new one that son Steven gave me to try. Aie! With a new leader and lure in place I walk through the bush up the lake shore hoping to find a location to fish, with no luck. Try one spot but snag and manage to recover. The bush is really thick with down trees. Walk where moose have walked, once having to head up the hill and back down around a really thick area. Guess was too thick even for moose, especially with large down trees. Blackflies bothersome all day." Back to camp to pack the nylon tent just as it starts to rain again so it gets a bit damp. Supper is made at fireplace but eaten in the Tent. Weary, to bed by 20:30, light rain falling at 17°C. It has been a damp day and the Tent and I would benefit from stove.
June 12 Sunday:
Up by 04:30, I erect and start the stove, but bake fresh bannock at the fireplace where the mosquitoes are bothersome. It is 10°C, damp, calm and clear. Out of stovewood and firewood I head up the hill to fetch more poles. As usual on Sunday, I check for messages on the satellite phone; text from Jeanette: "OK here. No fires 4u. Poss rain all week 4u". After lunch I paddle across the creek from camp where there is a small clear grassy area with two big boulders at shore where I tie up. My first objective is to check if it would be possible to cut a new portage to replace "river road". Reaching the lower end of the rapids through the bush is easier than anticipated. It would be possible to cut a trail starting at the creek edge, weaving through the bush and about ⅔ of the way moving farther inland to follow the top of an expanse of mostly bare rock. I estimate it would take at least three days work. Walking back I follow close to the creek along the steep hill, seeing moose winter droppings and one scat of woodland caribou. The topographical map indicates an old winter road farther inland, but I realize it would be overgrown, at least for the distance from it through burned bush to the lower end of the rapids.
Back at the canoe I catch two pike (19", 21") and clean them on the rock at water's edge. Only take a few casts, what a difference from fishing on the camp side. Back at camp by 15:30, after unloading I start supper, fried pike (coated in Parmesan cheese, sugar, lemon pepper) then sauteed in ghee and mixed with bulgur (with nutritional yeast, chicken soup base). Mmm ... good! Accompanied by a fresh salad (alder catkins, birch leaves, willow leaves, one fireweed shoot). A mouse runs under the Tarp shelter across the portage and towards the creek; I have invaded its territory and I apologize. A hot shower and to bed by 20:30, tired after a busy day.
June 13:
Up at 04:45, very cloudy completely overcast 14°C, mosquitoes bothersome. Bannock is baked at a wonderfully aromatic fire after fetching a big bundle of branches from a large down willow in the meadow above camp. From my journal: "My mouse comes to the edge of Tarp shelter just to my left as I am sitting under the edge. She runs back the way she came, returning a few moments later scampering beside and behind me along the back of the shelter. This must be a regular trail. Cute ... but do not feed ... or problems will ensue, speaking from experience. A few minutes later, a small mouse follows, and then another which turns back. Cheers my sorry frown about the portage trail into a smile! Yay!"
After breakfast, I don wading gear and take tools to finish clearing the portage, to determine the extent of the overflow and if there is an appropriate location for a Tent site at the lower end. The only other gear I carry is my Waist Pack and the usual bearspray and hunting knife. Moving down the trail I stop as required to clear fallen branches and trees, soon wearing headnet against very bothersome blackflies. "River road" proves to run for 200 metres down the trail, the lower 200 metres being dry, the depth of water is at least six inches and up to 12 inches with washed out trail exposing gnarly roots and producing a few very muddy holes, all ready to trip me up. Will be tougher when carrying heavy load. My portage plan now is to still use this side of the river, pulling gear in the canoe down "river road" while wearing wading gear, definitely a unique plan for me. I find that there is a good location for either tent and a safe spot for a fireplace. On my return I carry leather boots and change of clothes to the far end to wear as I work. It takes three hours to clear trail and campsite, cut Tent poles and to build a fireplace. From my journal: "On preparing to walk back, I remark out loud 'Well ... a good job. Will see you later. Let's hope no unexpected visitors at camp.' Probably shouldn't say that that but am always concerned when returning to camp about bear visitors while away." Back at camp I do not remove the headnet until starting a fire. Then I move to the Tent to change clothes away from mosquitoes and on a clean floor.
Canoeing across the river, I catch my first walleye of the trip for supper. While unloading the canoe after fishing, I get instant feedback on how I hurt my shoulder. In the canoe I lift the Rubber Pack and step over the gunwale but trip a bit when the canoe shifts up as I step. This is what happened when I hurt my shoulder but I did not just "trip a bit". A reminder to lift gear in or out of canoe before stepping over gunwale; never lift and step over. After supper I have a hot shower getting only a few mosquito bites; I got sweaty several times today so the shower feels wonderful. To bed by 20:00, my shoulder and arm ache all night, difficult to find a good sleep position. From my journal: "Have started new improved way of sleep bedding layout where sleeping bag is open with me in fleece shell on lower bag layer, covering/uncovering with the top layer of bag as required. Works well! Why didn't I ever think of it before. Keep trying new things; always something to learn." Previously I would sleep in fleece shell but if chilled would get in sleeping bag, sometimes having to go back and forth.
June 14:
13°C, very cloudy, looking like rain, mosquitoes bothersome. Temperature rises to 21°C midafternoon and mosquitoes get very bothersome. Up by 04:00 with the intention to portage, one look from the meadow where I can see the sky makes me question my move, reinforced by recalling Jeanette's text message. With my poor history of predicting weather, only time will tell. Having dumped most of the pots of water already, I fetch more water to boil at the campfire. With stove on and gear hanging to dry in the Tent, it feels good sitting in chair wearing only moccasins while I do several puzzles. Today I catch a 19" pike for fish chowder, becoming one of my favourite meals. Water level in the old fireplace has lowered somewhat; will be ironic when I portage if there is not enough water on "river road" for the canoe. By evening there is steady light rainfall and as I fall asleep doing a puzzle, I give thanks for the canvas Tent being up. It rains all night long, as I keep waking up trying to locate a comfortable position for my arm and shoulder. I try using mindfulness but my arm does not seem to listen.
June 15:
Up by 05:30, still raining, 14°C, stove on. I erect the medium tarp over an area where I can use a down tree as a sawhorse for stovewood. At 14:30 rain seems to have paused so I get dressed, paddle across the river and catch a 20" pike for supper. I notice the old fireplace is full of water again with the rainfall. Soon after I return it rains and I give thanks for allowing me to fish without rain. As usual I also give thanks for the fish and fresh salad. Several more flocks of Canada geese are heard overhead flying north today. After going outside and avoiding getting mosquitoes in the Tent, as I wait to close the outer door until I have cooled off, I find myself being bothered by many tiny bites ... sandflies which must have come in with me ... buggers! Rains all night again.
June 16:
Up at 04:00, I slip boots on to go outside to find ominous-looking weather very cloudy, very damp, 13°C. Back to bed until getting up by 05:00. I restart the stove and even with damper wide open find it a bit cool with no clothes on at the back of the Tent, window and door screens open. I am improving on baking the new bannock mix on the stove but never going to be as successful as at an open fire. Light rain continues all morning. Again I am thankful to catch a 22" pike for supper in between rainfalls. I start the fireplace to fry the fish (to avoid the spatter and odour in the Tent if cooked on stove). While waiting under the Tarp shelter I spot my mouse scurrying back and forth at the back of the shelter and once going into a hole in the ground that I did not know was there. Neat! Before falling asleep I now think I will not camp at the lower end of the portage. Instead, continue on to make it across three small lakes and three more portages to the next big lake where there should be guaranteed excellent walleye fishing. I can camp at the lower end of the first portage on my return to fish the lower rapids. Hopefully no more portage issues.