August 10 at 04:56, beautiful clear morning at camp 22, mist rising off lake in front of where the moose was feeding in the water four days ago.
06:30 approaching first portage beside the waterfall. The trail starts just to the right of the spruce tree where I stored my temporary birch pole canoe partner on August 6.
The landing is full of either water hemlock or water parsnip. The latter is edible, the former deadly poisonous. Whichever plant it is I would never eat it for fear of making the wrong identification. I do eat cow parsnip though.
Wet already from walking in the grass and brush from the lower landing, I get soaked from knees down carrying loads through the tall grass at the upper end of the trail. Compared to the 150 metre path taken in the spring, the portage is now 30 metres longer.
07:56 packed ready to paddle 500 metres up the small lake above the falls towards the next rapids.
The next portage is well below the upper rapids at the side of the small lake. Water level down significantly and plants growing well out into the lake, I am not sure where the lower landing is. At 08:29 I head for a spot where I can paddle close enough to step out without getting wet. However when I get on shore nothing looks familiar. Walking up an old trail obstructed with down trees and branches I walk 70 metres before reaching the proper landing. At first I consider clearing the path but it would involve much work and would zigzag to get around trees too large to saw.
Walking back to the canoe I shove off to paddle further up the lake to the correct place. I first head the canoe bow toward shore to make a path through the thick water plants, then back out to turn in stern first. At 09:03 I have managed to paddle and pole as close as possible to shore. By walking gingerly, stepping in the right spots, I am able to get to shore without going over boot tops.
At 09:24, pulling the canoe closer with the painter, I carry some of the packs to shore to lighten the canoe. Pulling closer again I remove more of the load. To reach the lighter Kitchen Barrel and packs in the bow I have to clamber over the heavy barrels in the middle. Finally I can pull the canoe stern up on land to finish unloading.
The first load I carry up the trail is the Rubber Pack with Miscellaneous Pack on top and gun in hand. Walking up the path I reach a large tree that has been tipped over partially uprooted. Suddenly one foot breaks through the surface. I now am standing upright in a small hole with my crotch at path level. Aie! The tree roots are barely covered by the fragile surface humus which I broke through. It is hollow underneath. I set top load and gun down and then wriggle out of the pack straps still on my shoulders. A good example why on rough terrain I never use a pack's waist belt. With some manoeuvring to get my boot extricated where it is trapped around tree roots I pull my leg out while gradually crawling away from the hole. If needed to cut my way out I do have tools in the top pack plus a multitool with a sawblade in my Waist Pack. Before I can move on several trees and brush must be cleared to make a new trail off to the side.
At the upper end of the trail I notice three fresh spots where a bear has dug up plants, probably roots to eat. One patch of soil has the definite print of bear paw and claws.
At 10:41 I have just left the upper end of the 300 metre second portage to paddle up this seven km long lake. I am happy to have a gorgeous sunny day, calm as illustrated by the perfect reflection of white cumulus on the water surface.
At 13:37 after stopping for breakfast and lunch midway on the lake I approach the lower landing of the third 370 metre portage at the foot of rapids, again much lower water level than in the spring.
At 16:40 nearing the lower landing of the fourth 600 metre portage to the left of the foot of the rapids.
Portions of the middle 200 metre section of the washed out portage trail that was "river road" in the spring, now dry but rough walking with exposed roots.
Camp 23 using the same site as old camp 6 in the spring. The portage trail runs beside and behind the Tarp shelter.
A fuzzy caterpillar friend, one of many that are crawling on and over everything.
The trail continues up past the tent.
I leave the canoe at the lower end of the last portage so that I can take it out to fish for walleye below the rapids. Arriving so late there is no way I want to carry any more than necessary for camp, leaving other gear underneath the canoe (paddles, PFD, painters, Stove Bag, canvas Tent Pack).
The outlet of the rapids in which I fish from the canoe. To the right side is the lower landing where the canoe was parked. At mid-left of the photo can be seen the bow of the canoe hauled up on shore while I clean my catch.
The rock slope beside the falls where I fillet the walleye.
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Summary:
A long hard tiring day! Fall through a hole with one leg right to my crotch while carrying a heavy load on the second portage. Distance travelled is 12 km including two extra for lunch plus four portages (180, 300, 370, 600 metres). When I trip and fall twice during the third portage I vow to camp before the final longest one; however that site proves too shaded from sun and thick with mosquitoes, so despite saying to "not even think about doing the long portage" I do anyway. The "river road" trail of spring is now dry but very washed out exposing many tree roots. Mosquitoes bothersome during my entire stay. Successful walleye fishing at both lower and upper ends of trail at camp 23.
August 10:
Still quite dark at the 04:00 alarm in the nylon tent, the only time I have to use a flashlight is to confirm that boot laces are tied properly. (Because of fire risk I typically only use the candle in the canvas Tent.) Leaving camp 22 by 06:20 I paddle to the first portage beside the falls. The 180 metre trail is relatively easy except the landing is a steep hill so have to be careful how I handle the barrels to not roll into the water. The overhanging grass and brush are very wet from last evening's rain, especially the upper 30 metres past where I landed in the spring when water levels were higher. My pants get soaked up to the knees. Morning dawns through a clear sky but sun is not very high yet and mosquitoes are quite bothersome. At the upper landing there is not much water to float the canoe worsened by many rocks and boulders. At both ends of the portage I have to unload/load from the stern.
Paddling up the small lake to the next portage the shoreline now looks much different, the water at least 18" lower and heavy growth of plants. Not recognizing my spring landing spot I back up an old beaver channel to reach dry shore. I know it is probably too good to be true and on stepping onto land I realize I have landed too far down the lake. Walking along parts of an old path obstructed by down branches and trees, I find the real landing is 70 metres up the shore. Unpacking tools I start to clear the trail but soon realize there will be too many zigzags around big down trees. So I check the proper landing again. By being careful where I step, I can walk on top of dense water plants in shallow water far enough out without getting water over boot tops, though dangerously close. Paddling to the correct location, there are tall water plants to get through so first drive the canoe bow first as far as possible to make a track. Backing out I turn to paddle and pole as far as I can. After throwing the painter towards shore, I step gingerly out of the canoe to walk until getting to less soft footing then pull the canoe closer with the rope. As I unload I carry directly to the upper end of the portage, then keep pulling the canoe farther as it lightens. As usual on my first trip I take the Miscellaneous Pack containing tools on top of Rubber Pack and the gun in one free arm. From my journal: "There have been fierce winds so not surprised when I reach a very large fallen spruce tree. The base of the tree is turned upwards one metre directly on the trail. I continue walking to climb up and over ... well I start ... until my right leg goes through what proves to be a thin top layer of humus covering the roots. Without time to even be startled, I step straight down right to my crotch, still carrying the full load. Aie! Drop the top pack and gun then wiggle out of the pack straps. Work my way out of the hole, at first my foot is stuck in roots but I work the boot free. Glad that I went straight down without tripping I am relieved that I didn't get hurt." Validating the reason I carry the pack with tools on the first trip, I cut a trail to bypass the side of the fallen tree root system. Moving on I have to drop the load to clear several more spots on the 300 metre portage; some though can be cleared by hand on my return. Clearing the trail takes a total of one hour. At the upper landing there is fresh bear sign, some quite recent since the last rain, perhaps this very morning. The bear has been digging for roots to eat. I can see pug marks in the most recent spot. Mosquitoes are bothersome so I keep moving to finish carrying loads. I have not eaten this morning but will wait till I get to a more bug-free location.
Launching at the now shallow lake shore full of boulders I wiggle the canoe through, having to back up and start again twice. At least I do not have to get out of canoe (and boots and pants) to pull. Hoping to stop for breakfast along a big island, I climb out on some large boulders; but not only do I still have the mosquitoes that accompanied me, now I have even more new ones. On the opposite side of the lake I spot a cabin so I head there, going two km out of the way. On arrival I see a dock and an unoccupied cluster of buildings of a fly-in fishing camp situated on an isthmus between two lakes. The dock has several motorboats tied up, one with the motor twisted off as it was bashed by wind-driven waves in one of the storms. Guests are provided the facility and flights to and from but are responsible for their own fishing equipment, food and bedding. Sitting with my upper body in shade of nearby trees and lower in sun I eat a combined breakfast and lunch on the dock. It is a gorgeous sunny day with only light breeze so far. My boots and insoles sitting in the sun to dry, I stretch out damp sock clad feet which dry by the time ready to leave. I remark that this year it has been rare to see people; I wonder with pandemic restrictions lifted if people are concentrating on other activities.
Just in the time while stopped for lunch the wind has picked up and I paddle in a moderate headwind to the next portage at the upper end of this seven km long lake. Landing in shallow water I have to jockey to get in a suitable spot to tie up, thankfully at both ends of the canoe. This portage is 370 metres long needing minimal clearing. I walk across two moose beds on flattened long grass directly on the trail, where either one animal bedded twice or two separate moose. There are recent moose tracks not obliterated by rain. At one spot I see where a bear has dug up an ant hill after the last rain. From my journal: "Slipping once and tripping another time, I fall twice carrying loads, having to heft the top load again. Aie! I say out loud 'Camp at the next landing, don't even think about doing the long 600 metre portage!' Getting weary." This time I can use the same lower and upper landings as in the spring. At the upper I must load from the stern tied in shallow water.
Paddling up the one km long small lake to the next portage is against a stiff headwind. Specifically planning to use this spot for camp on my return, I had created fireplace and tent sites. I wanted to stay here in the spring because of the superior fishing below the rapids but could not because the portage had become "river road". On arrival at the lower landing mosquitoes are really bad, this area later in the year is not getting much sun in the shelter of the valley and trees. So after telling myself to "not even think about doing the long portage" I decide to portage anyway. I will leave the gear not needed to set up camp stored beneath the canoe (paddles, PFD, pail, Stove Bag, canvas Tent Pack). The upper campsite is equipped already with fireplace, firewood, more room and should get more sun. So I portage after my vow not to! I have to put the first load down twice to clear large fallen trees, more victims of the strong winds; one I have to go under, one over, taking half hour to trim branches. Gear portaged by 18:30, I activate the SPOT™ device. After nylon tent up with gear inside I start a fire to boil water and make macaroni and cheese for supper. I do not erect the Tarp shelter. Because mosquitoes are so bad, especially when I stop moving, I eat in the tent, placing the hot pot on leather mitts on the floor. After laying out the tent gear I finally eat supper with the occasional use of headlamp. A long hard day! Distance travelled is 12 km including two extra for lunch plus four portages (180, 300, 370, 600 metres). I give thanks for a good canoe day with no rain. I have been continuously drinking LifeStraw® water at camp plus at lunch and on the third portage. Sleep is okay but my right shoulder still bothers me as I keep waking trying to get comfortable.
August 11:
At 08:20 I am eating fresh bannock accompanied by quite bothersome mosquitoes. It is 10°C, blue sky overlaid with white cumulus. Being in the creek valley the sun has not yet appeared above tall trees. A strong south wind would make me windbound if I was interested in travelling. Temperature rises to 15°C by noon. I eat lunch out in the open to avoid mosquitoes that are really bad under the Tarp shelter which I erected after breakfast. After lunch I take fish gear to the lower landing to catch two walleye from the canoe in the swift water below the falls. After the first walleye I reel in a pike which I release. I keep having to paddle against the current to cast as I float back into the small lake. To clean the fish I cross over to the now bare rock beside the falls which was flooded in the spring. After parking the canoe again at the lower landing and carrying the fishing kit to camp, I portage gear not needed for fishing (Stove Bag, canvas Tent Pack, pail). By midafternoon it is 25°C. Mosquitoes have been really bothersome all day, especially attacking the back of my hands and fingers even as I am busy working. To collect firewood I have to climb up the steep hill to a level spot above camp where I also gather spruce boughs for a floor under the Tarp shelter. The portage trail leads south of camp 100 metres across a fairly open grassy meadow to the lake depending on how far I have to go to reach a good spot along shore. There are recent moose tracks at various places on the portage. Wanting a landing much closer I clear a trail from the tent to the edge of the rapids that I think has enough water to float the canoe. In the meadow I pick about two cups of bunchberries plus a few pin cherries, raspberries and yellow salsify flowers for a supper salad. At 18:00 I am eating walleye chowder. I have enough grub for the rest of the week without catching more fish; however fishing here will be more successful than later on so I plan to eat more fish now and less next week. Only now is sunshine full on camp, the only time it can reach through the trees, giving a temporary brief reprieve from mosquitoes. They act like it is night all day here, showing how the seasons have progressed towards autumn. Mosquitoes soon attack again; if I wait too long they will get so much worse as the sun sets. Although the lower landing is worse, the upper has not been as good as I had hoped. By 19:25 I am in the tent trying to do a puzzle but falling asleep. Soon I am laying on the bedsheet with minimal clothes on, sleeping very well after a long hard day yesterday and poor rest last night.
August 12:
Proving that I did have sleep to catch up on I do not wake until 06:00, light rainfall just before getting up, 18°C. It is dark until at least 05:00, longer because of how sheltered camp is in the narrow river valley. When I walk up the open meadow to view the sky it is very cloudy with a patch of blue in the west. Impressively there is a light breeze blowing up the lake, a good travel wind. Perhaps I should leave but already almost 07:00 it will be a late start, especially because I still have two carries of gear and canoe from the lower landing. Also the sky sure looks like rain. At 08:40 I am eating breakfast by the fire. Walking to the lower landing I carry the canoe to camp then go back to get the remaining gear. From my journal: "Still torn about leaving. Now there is no blue sky whatsoever. Might rain all day but on other hand could stay like this all day. I'm mentally arguing back and forth. Finally decide to stay, it's late. Sure don't plan on taking canoe and its gear back to the lower landing; if I need to fish will try just above the rapids at camp were I was successful in the spring." At 09:05, as I go up above the hillside to fetch more firewood the mosquitoes are their usual bothersome selves. I also carry the many branches of a tall dead fallen diamond willow from the meadow 80 metres away. While I air sleep gear on the clothesline, I move the button at the neck of my new light shirt so it is loose enough to fasten. My sewing skills are minimal, but I can do a decent job of sewing a button. The sky is about half blue now. I have moved the spruce boughs serving as my table three times to catch a bit of sun where there are fewer bugs. Mosquitoes are really bad in the darker shade of the Tarp shelter. There is very little movement of air in camp. So far I have only used the Tarp shelter for storage of tools, kitchenware, canvas Tent Pack, Stove Bag, and through the day the Kitchen Barrel and Rubber Pack (which are stored in the tent at night). Before noon lunch of fresh bannock, I enjoy a hot shower. After lunch I try fishing from shore, perched precariously on boulders in the river away from shore. From my journal: "Not expecting any luck, first cast hooks a nice 17" walleye. A 14" one soon follows. Then get the lure snagged on rocks in the stream above the rapids. Take the canoe out to retrieve the lure. Now the boat itself gets hung up on a boulder. If the nearly empty canoe can't make it how will a fully loaded one? Aie!" From the canoe I catch a 17" pike. Paddling across the river I fillet the fish on bare rock at shore. Nearby I pick salad of bunchberries and a few raspberries where a bear has recently dug up an anthill. Back at camp I stoke the fire then head to my supposed upper landing where I got stuck with the unloaded canoe. Sitting on the canoe hull on shore I remove boots, jeans and socks to put on my sandals. Wading out I remove as many large stones as I can to make room for the canoe. There is one big stone I would like to move but need a crowbar or more likely dynamite to do so. I now hope the fully loaded canoe will be able to float out. Supper is a big feed of fish which is a "next week meal". If I have to stay longer because of weather I will fish again. By 18:40 I am in the tent for the night already in pyjamas. It is prematurely dark because of a completely grey overcast sky, 21°C. At 19:30 I am falling asleep over a sudoku puzzle.